Corbic

Ok, I own a GXL. Not a bad car, I love the Rotary and the value of the whole package. However the car I have, while I picked it up cheap, and its rust free, has some issues.

It needs lost of small things, bushings, inner-shift boot, windshield, dampers, sunroof is stuck and a whole host of other various small problems. This is not a big deal in its self, seeing I would just fix as I go and one day have a mint car, however its' 5th and 6th port are froze shut. That and the air-pump squeeks like crazy.

So really, after all my "minior" problems are fixed, I'll be out over 3gs more likely. And even then, I will be left with a car worth not much more then I paid and still not that quick.

So the question is, would it be better to find a good codition TII, with out all the minor problems which add up to big $$$? Can I find a "Clean" rust free car for $4,000. Or is this just wishful thinking, sure I'll find a clean TII, however I'll still end up spending another 1-2k on it.

DREYKO

bushings,- most expensive thing on here
$50-150 depending on brand and type

inner-shift boot, -junkyard
free-10 bucks

windshield, -junkyard
take some solvent with you and put it around the silicone while pulling other parts, -40-80 bux

dampers, ?pulsation? suspention? sound? either way, its not nessissary or a cheap fix

sunroof -junkyard
30-60 bux

5th and 6th port fix your self
pull your manifolds and free them if wd 40 wont do it

air-pump
pull that **** off anyway

if you have a friend with a parts car almost all of that is free
and on the fourum id say 400 bux max for everything

id keep the car personally but its your call

Corbic

Can't pull a windshield, they car from what I'm told. Its $180 to have someone do it. I don't have the time or space to yank the manifold and airpump. Dampers, as in shock-absorbers, which would run for about $250. Buschings are a total PITA from what I know. Inner-shift boot is $50.

er, forgot the big $$, I need all four new tires.

rotorforce

Tii Ftw

peachykeenwight

If you buy a TII, you're going to have a new, BIG problem.. it's called a turbo. :P

Either way you're going to be spending some money on a '7.. it's just inevitable. Of course, in the long run, the N/A will be cheaper.. but the TII would be a lot more fun while it lasts.

bacek

T2

i have never heard a T2 guy say they want a NA unless it was a 3rotor or a p-port engine....

but then they would say they would want a turbo 3 rotor and a turbo p-port engine....

you will get addicted to boost if you go T2

and you are right if you find a clean one around 4k like i did you will still spend around 2k in maintenance and getting everything in tip top shape. can you afford that? the car i found was around 4k but i mainly bought it cuz it had mods i was already thinking of getting, plus had an engine with 105 compression on both rotors, perfect seats, and working ac..... I already knew that i was going to spend around 2k on getting things in the right running order.

lupin

iTrader: (3)

I say you stay na

I am working on my na 7 project now(engine is almost in)
I am almost done and I have spent about 7k(I am doing everything the right way with all brand name parts)

You can do it for a lot cheaper but I want my 7 to be in tip top shape.

dennis blackstone

i would say stay na but the trade of is too great if you kept a t2 stock it halls *** the tranny is almost bullet proof the rear end you can do hole shots all day its just that if you kept a t2 stock it would last a long time and the added performance i did a jspec conversion and it idles beutifully runs like a bat out of hell and almost reliable in other words i can go on long trips and trust ill make it back, i upgraded bushing fuel pump brand knew injectors a must on a almost 20 year car so i would say go for a t2 or if your feeling adventurous like me do a conversion if you can find the parts cheep i loved my gxl but my t2 theres no comparison