2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Should I buy this 1990 GXL for $550?

Old Jun 5, 2013 | 04:15 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by jjwalker
One thing I just noticed and connected the dots...

Why is it that Crystal White paint code cars like to peel like that? My bumper on the vert started doing that ****. Last time i was at Rotary Performance, they said that it is incredibly common.
Mine peeling tremendously all over the hood, top of headlight, driver side door. I would assume its common.
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 10:24 AM
  #27  
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Mine is just peeling on the trunk lid. Previous owner had the car repainted at Maaco (ERRMERGERD!) and the clear coat is peeling off. Only place I am losing base coat is on the trunk lid thankfully.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 09:32 AM
  #28  
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i'm calling BS, i doubt he has anyone willing to pay $700 for that beat up POS.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 09:55 AM
  #29  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
i'm calling BS, i doubt he has anyone willing to pay $700 for that beat up POS.
and/or he should have taken the $700!
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 10:07 AM
  #30  
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^ I think OP mentioned the seller said "the guy" was still getting the money together or something. But yes, I agree, prolly BS, and yes if true he should wait

OP, assume the engine's toast, worst case scenario, and offer accordingly.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 12:02 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
i'm calling BS, i doubt he has anyone willing to pay $700 for that beat up POS.
True, I think he's bluffing.

Originally Posted by pfsantos
^ I think OP mentioned the seller said "the guy" was still getting the money together or something. But yes, I agree, prolly BS, and yes if true he should wait

OP, assume the engine's toast, worst case scenario, and offer accordingly.
I'm letting him sweat it out. When the cars still sitting there in a few days, I'm gonna sneak up on him and offer $350 when he's least expecting it.


Just for a recap, since this is a new thread page, the coolant seals are definitely blown and it's on non-op registration, but I want to drive it to my house...
Originally Posted by MountainSeven
It's cranking over, but not starting. Would this be due to coolant fouling the plugs?

***If I can get it to run for 4 minutes, I can get it onto the highway(a closed highway of course) and then coast it downhill into my driveway. Could plug fouling be the most likely cause of a no start on this one? I know it could be anything, but I have a hunch that it's the plugs...
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 12:18 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Bryan Jacobs
there is no profit to be made on that car, unless theres a GOOD shape black interior thats def wortha few bucks but judging on the exterior of the car my guess is the interior is in similar shape. Whoever said there's 1500 in that car is crazy, unless there's some coilovers and an exhaust and some other parts I'm not seeing.
Not sure if you've seen my s5 after I hit a light pole, but I managed to make over $2k profit (still gaining more money as we speak on that totaled car). Granite my motor swap was a little chunk of that, but if you cannot make at least $1000 profit off of that car you do not know how to sell parts or advertise things. I don't feel $550 would be worth the front end damage, but $200-$400 I'd probably pick it up.

Hell I sold a 5lug conversion for $200. Sold a set of s5 tails for $250. That's already $50 profit if you get the car for $400. $200 for set of rims I've sold off of that car, rear hatch $150. Come on do the math people. There is a decent amount of money to make even at $550. Slow money is better than no money.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 12:19 PM
  #33  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by MountainSeven
True, I think he's bluffing.
I'm letting him sweat it out. When the cars still sitting there in a few days, I'm gonna sneak up on him and offer $350 when he's least expecting it.
yep thats the best way.



Just for a recap, since this is a new thread page, the coolant seals are definitely blown and it's on non-op registration, but I want to drive it to my house...
if it sat too long, the seals and rotors are both iron, so if it sees water for too long they will rust together. you should plan that this is the case and that at least one rotor is just stuck solid with rust, and it'll never run
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 12:22 PM
  #34  
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Who the hell offers more money than the seller is asking for, especially on a piece of **** like that? It's not like a mint FD that 10 people are all having a bidding war over.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 12:29 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by jjwalker
Who the hell offers more money than the seller is asking for, especially on a piece of **** like that? It's not like a mint FD that 10 people are all having a bidding war over.
Yeah I know I've never offered more for a car. Some people are like that tho. They ask to save it so the seller holds it because its not like he is losing anything by waiting. But there is still money to be made on the car. Craigslist posting is beast ahah.
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 02:32 PM
  #36  
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From: Sonora, CA
CA It sold for $750!!

It's taken me a few extra days to get back on here, so I'm about 4 days late on an update.
I called him back last Thursday ready to make my ultra-low offer, and he told me he had already sold it to the other people on Tuesday. He said he waited for my call on Monday, but I never left him a message because I didn't know if it was a good idea. He said "They showed up with a trailer, said 'Beautiful', and handed me $750. They said they were going to rebuild the engine". Muahahahahaha. Little do they know...it's unrebuildable!
I kinda regret just not giving him $500 for the whole thing. I could've had some better parts and from what I see, I could have made some money, but at the same time, I wouldn't have had money to move out of my apartment into something with a carport(which is mine as of today!).
The only thing that mega-sucks is the fact that I don't have a truck or trailer. It will probably cost me $200 in gas/trailer rental fees to pick up another non-running S5 from Stockton/Modesto. Plus, I probably won't be able get to it in time before a swarm of Craigslist FC vultures beat me to it. I've decided that I just want a clean S5 NA chassis to Turbo-swap. Either way, I'll be on the lookout for another S5.
Thanks everyone for their input, it will help me with future purchases!!
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 02:40 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by MountainSeven
It's taken me a few extra days to get back on here, so I'm about 4 days late on an update.
I called him back last Thursday ready to make my ultra-low offer, and he told me he had already sold it to the other people on Tuesday. He said he waited for my call on Monday, but I never left him a message because I didn't know if it was a good idea. He said "They showed up with a trailer, said 'Beautiful', and handed me $750. They said they were going to rebuild the engine". Muahahahahaha. Little do they know...it's unrebuildable!
I kinda regret just not giving him $500 for the whole thing. I could've had some better parts and from what I see, I could have made some money, but at the same time, I wouldn't have had money to move out of my apartment into something with a carport(which is mine as of today!).
The only thing that mega-sucks is the fact that I don't have a truck or trailer. It will probably cost me $200 in gas/trailer rental fees to pick up another non-running S5 from Stockton/Modesto. Plus, I probably won't be able get to it in time before a swarm of Craigslist FC vultures beat me to it. I've decided that I just want a clean S5 NA chassis to Turbo-swap. Either way, I'll be on the lookout for another S5.
Thanks everyone for their input, it will help me with future purchases!!
You know that it may save you money to just buy a t2 rather than na then convert to a t2. Because if you want to swap a t2 into an na properly you'd need an entire drive train setup (driveshaft & diff). Just a thought....

Good luck with your future purchases.
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 05:02 PM
  #38  
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You should Thank the guy that BOUGHT that car car.
He actually saved YOU the aggravation of having to strip it! ..and he saved you $550 dollars!
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 12:45 PM
  #39  
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Its not trash if it has a clean title. Offer him $400 take it or leave it. The tail lights alone are worth close to $200. Looks like a tree fell on the front end. I thought Mazda recalled Crystal White paint and offered to repaint cars for free. The car is worth buying if you can talk him down just a little bit.

Hows the interior?
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 01:21 PM
  #40  
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^It already sold for $750, which is shocking.

At $400, maybe you could break even on the shell (by selling a few stock parts at $5~$10 a piece and the shell's scrap value), replace a few of his 100k used parts with 87k used parts, and have that eyesore taking up his carport for weeks.

OP: You didn't miss out on much. Don't lose any sleep over it.

As for Cali economics, any rwd chassis (hella mad tyte drft car) rarely goes for under $500. Which will promptly be crashed and eventually replaced.
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 02:05 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Broke_A_Baller
it may save you money to just buy a t2 rather than na then convert to a t2
Good advice there. For most this is the best route, to avoid the hassle of swaping parts and modifying harnesses and to have true TII.
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 10:22 PM
  #42  
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I think it's ridiculous that it sold for that much, but I think everybody's right that it's a good thing for you in the long run
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