She's Alive (Barely)!
#1
WTB S5 N/A FC
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Location: College Station, Tx
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She's Alive (Barely)!
Well, my car kicked over today! I had rigged a ground that backfired, and I fried something. It started up today after two days of being dead, but it idles at the line just above "0". I have to crank the key a few times, let the starter spin a bit, then it will kick over. I am getting a new starter in the mail, but why is my idle so low? I do not think it is my TPS, but what else could it be?
#3
Rotary Freak
check the resistance values on your sensors.
you have fried SOMTHING.
The haynes manual will show you how to test the values and operation of the various valves and sensors that are electric.
Also, prepare to obtain a new CPU, either the flasher CPU or the BIG computer in the passenger compartment area.
you have fried SOMTHING.
The haynes manual will show you how to test the values and operation of the various valves and sensors that are electric.
Also, prepare to obtain a new CPU, either the flasher CPU or the BIG computer in the passenger compartment area.
#4
WTB S5 N/A FC
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Really? A new EPU? But everything works. It just idles really low. My car has always idled low (between 200 and 500 RPM), but now it idles between 100 and 200 RPM. According to Hailers, all I did was reset the ECU, not actually fry it. If I reset it, would that intail readjusting my TPS?
#5
Rotary Freak
maybe.
You STILL should check the sensors and valves that are electrically operated.
You MUST be sure that everything survived.
You have created a systemmic trauma to you electrical system.
And you could spend months chasing a setting that is impossible to acheive because there is somthing operating out of spec, slightly fried, or outright blown.
the ONLY WAY to avoid this, is to systematically check everything electrical while disconnected from the harness.
Get a Haynes manual, absorb ALL of it you can.
Check everything from the battery, to the alternator, to the sensors and valves.
Then get started tuning your car.
You STILL should check the sensors and valves that are electrically operated.
You MUST be sure that everything survived.
You have created a systemmic trauma to you electrical system.
And you could spend months chasing a setting that is impossible to acheive because there is somthing operating out of spec, slightly fried, or outright blown.
the ONLY WAY to avoid this, is to systematically check everything electrical while disconnected from the harness.
Get a Haynes manual, absorb ALL of it you can.
Check everything from the battery, to the alternator, to the sensors and valves.
Then get started tuning your car.
#6
WTB S5 N/A FC
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Thanks. I took her for a spin after fiddling w/ the TPS, and pulling the main fuse (I assume this disconnects everything) and now, she is running like she used to! I hope I am lucky! But I will still check everything to be sure! Thanks SniperX
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