Serious Vibration after thermal eccentric valve change ?!?!?!?!
Recently on my 1986 RX-7:
-changed the thermal eccentric valve i followed this tutorial video
Eccentric Shaft Thermal Bypass Video
- After the installaction the car would not start because it had been sitting for quite some time. I thought it was a battery issue. So i used a jump pack car started right up.
- On the first drive i heard some squeaks coming from the belts (weird considering they were just changed. ) Then after driving and shifting through the gears up to 60mph There were vibrations for every gear.
-Im still driving it daily and now carry a jump pack in the trunk because i cant find where the electrical draw is coming from.
-Every day while driving anything over 2000rpm the car vibrates a little sometimes even if i go from in gear to neutral it will vibrate.
If you want I can post a video of it vibrating? I dont think it has anything to do with the suspension as this issue was not present before the thermal eccentric bypass valve change. Although I've know for quite some time that the transmission was about to go so maybe the issue is there?
Any comments or advice is much appreciated. Also if you have any recommendations of a rotary mechanic or maybe your in the area and want to take a look at it I live in bridgton, ME 04009
-changed the thermal eccentric valve i followed this tutorial video
Eccentric Shaft Thermal Bypass Video
- After the installaction the car would not start because it had been sitting for quite some time. I thought it was a battery issue. So i used a jump pack car started right up.
- On the first drive i heard some squeaks coming from the belts (weird considering they were just changed. ) Then after driving and shifting through the gears up to 60mph There were vibrations for every gear.
-Im still driving it daily and now carry a jump pack in the trunk because i cant find where the electrical draw is coming from.
-Every day while driving anything over 2000rpm the car vibrates a little sometimes even if i go from in gear to neutral it will vibrate.
If you want I can post a video of it vibrating? I dont think it has anything to do with the suspension as this issue was not present before the thermal eccentric bypass valve change. Although I've know for quite some time that the transmission was about to go so maybe the issue is there?
Any comments or advice is much appreciated. Also if you have any recommendations of a rotary mechanic or maybe your in the area and want to take a look at it I live in bridgton, ME 04009
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possibly the driveshaft rear u joint? mazdatrix has a good chart that will help you narrow down the possible issues Trans / Diff Troubleshooting
If the bearing and spacer slipped the main hub and pulley will be out of alignment with the water pump pulley no? I don't think the hub would sit right if its slipped. Could be the cause for squeaky belts too.
Didn't you have another thread going where a mechanic swapped the thermal pellet? Maybe you need to stop driving it, vibration is killer on bearings. Plus if the bearing has slipped you're dumping metal through your oiling system.
Didn't you have another thread going where a mechanic swapped the thermal pellet? Maybe you need to stop driving it, vibration is killer on bearings. Plus if the bearing has slipped you're dumping metal through your oiling system.
You should clarify whether the vibration is actually engine speed related, or if it's vehicle speed related. Sounds like it's engine speed related, so I'll go down that path first. Sitting still, the engine vibrates over 2000 rpm? You may have dropped the torrington bearing. That is a huge mess that can be solved, but you'll be lucky if you make it out without serious damage to your engine. I was one of the fortunate few who made it out without engine damage. I took the oil pan off and cleaned it out, changed the bearing and washer plate, reassembled everything, changed the oil, ran the engine for a warmup period, changed the oil again, and everything turned out fine. You may not be so lucky.
You should do an engine end play check to see if the eccentric shaft is moving in/out first. Check the engine oil for signs of sparklies as well. If that's fine, I'd remove all the belts and run the engine to see if the vibration goes away. Don't run it too long, it won't be spinning the water pump when you do that. It'll be fine for a short run (vehicle stopped), but anything over a minute or 2 is too long. If that doesn't turn anything up, do a compression check. You may have a stuck seal somewhere that may be giving you an imbalance in power.
You should do an engine end play check to see if the eccentric shaft is moving in/out first. Check the engine oil for signs of sparklies as well. If that's fine, I'd remove all the belts and run the engine to see if the vibration goes away. Don't run it too long, it won't be spinning the water pump when you do that. It'll be fine for a short run (vehicle stopped), but anything over a minute or 2 is too long. If that doesn't turn anything up, do a compression check. You may have a stuck seal somewhere that may be giving you an imbalance in power.
possibly the driveshaft rear u joint? mazdatrix has a good chart that will help you narrow down the possible issues Trans / Diff Troubleshooting
and right!If the bearing and spacer slipped the main hub and pulley will be out of alignment with the water pump pulley no? I don't think the hub would sit right if its slipped. Could be the cause for squeaky belts too.
Didn't you have another thread going where a mechanic swapped the thermal pellet? Maybe you need to stop driving it, vibration is killer on bearings. Plus if the bearing has slipped you're dumping metal through your oiling system.
Didn't you have another thread going where a mechanic swapped the thermal pellet? Maybe you need to stop driving it, vibration is killer on bearings. Plus if the bearing has slipped you're dumping metal through your oiling system.
You should clarify whether the vibration is actually engine speed related, or if it's vehicle speed related. Sounds like it's engine speed related, so I'll go down that path first. Sitting still, the engine vibrates over 2000 rpm? You may have dropped the torrington bearing. That is a huge mess that can be solved, but you'll be lucky if you make it out without serious damage to your engine. I was one of the fortunate few who made it out without engine damage. I took the oil pan off and cleaned it out, changed the bearing and washer plate, reassembled everything, changed the oil, ran the engine for a warmup period, changed the oil again, and everything turned out fine. You may not be so lucky.
You should do an engine end play check to see if the eccentric shaft is moving in/out first. Check the engine oil for signs of sparklies as well. If that's fine, I'd remove all the belts and run the engine to see if the vibration goes away. Don't run it too long, it won't be spinning the water pump when you do that. It'll be fine for a short run (vehicle stopped), but anything over a minute or 2 is too long. If that doesn't turn anything up, do a compression check. You may have a stuck seal somewhere that may be giving you an imbalance in power.
You should do an engine end play check to see if the eccentric shaft is moving in/out first. Check the engine oil for signs of sparklies as well. If that's fine, I'd remove all the belts and run the engine to see if the vibration goes away. Don't run it too long, it won't be spinning the water pump when you do that. It'll be fine for a short run (vehicle stopped), but anything over a minute or 2 is too long. If that doesn't turn anything up, do a compression check. You may have a stuck seal somewhere that may be giving you an imbalance in power.
definatly the drive shaft it was only sitting for 90 days.
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