series 5 sway bar choices.
series 5 sway bar choices.
I want to pick up some aftermarket sway bars but I always here of poeple have problems intalling them in 89-91 cars. since i think they are different from 86-88. for example eibach has a kit for 86-88, and 89-91. but RB and ST only have one kit for 86-91
has anyone had problems? I was leaning towards the RB ones. they are the cheapest and probably fit better. I sometimes qustion the fit of companys who make stuff for every car. I doubt they fit and test them all.
of course I have to use the series 5 endlinks (which nobody makes aftermarket ones for
)
has anyone had problems? I was leaning towards the RB ones. they are the cheapest and probably fit better. I sometimes qustion the fit of companys who make stuff for every car. I doubt they fit and test them all.
of course I have to use the series 5 endlinks (which nobody makes aftermarket ones for
)
Actually, the stock sway bars for the t2 are pretty good. Basically you need to take it out driving and see how it handles. If you have a problem with understeer, and get a bigger front sway bar, your going to have an even bigger problem with understeer. Alot of variables afftect how the car reacts. A bigger rear bar will cause the car to oversteer more. For example, if you have stock tires in the front and big tires in the back, youll want to keep the stock front bar, and upgrade the rear to neutralize the handling. So a sway bar kit for one car, may not working so well on another. You'll need to find out what your car needs to find a set that will suit it best.
but all the sets are basicly matched to each other right? so afterwards it will still be the same balence as before. just less lean.
right now the car understeers a bit but who knows what will happen after full bushings, GC coilvers w/ C/C plates, and F&R strut bars...
I guess I should hold off? I was going to order something else from racingbeat so I just thought I've save some $$ and hassle by getting them now.
how much of a difference will they make? should I just get some Mazda comp frame busings for the stock ones instead?
right now the car understeers a bit but who knows what will happen after full bushings, GC coilvers w/ C/C plates, and F&R strut bars...
I guess I should hold off? I was going to order something else from racingbeat so I just thought I've save some $$ and hassle by getting them now.
how much of a difference will they make? should I just get some Mazda comp frame busings for the stock ones instead?
Wait on the sway bars until you get the rest of your suspension. You can either get the mazdacomp, or the energy suspension kit from mazdatrix. Wait and see how it handles when you put the new stuff on.
What did you mean about no aftermarket end links for the series5.That is '89-92 right?I got the Mazdatrix adjustable end links.The all metal ones that use the hiem joints.They were a very noticable improvement over stock.Only problem I've had is I think they squeek alittle but I don't care.I just lube the joints every now and then to try to quiet them down.Here's alink to them.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/h6_86-92.htm
http://www.mazdatrix.com/h6_86-92.htm
hmm, the racing beat ones only fit on the rear. I had this debebt a while ago and I swore the conclusion was nobody made a front that fit the 89-91. and to just use new factory ones. it was my understanding that they were way different from 86-88 and 89-91. I don't see how mazda trix's ones could fit both.
The RB bars will fit 89-91 perfectly. FRONT AND REAR. I currently have them on my '90 TII and also had a set on a '91 N/A. In each case I installed them - a dolt could do it.
I have read on the forum that the ST front bar is 3-position adjustable, however, according to an article in GrassRoots? Motorsports you cannot use more than one position on FC's due to fit. The RB bars are a tad thicker in front and a little narrower in the rear than the ST bars.
My car certainly isn't the fastest TII on the board but it's definitely dialed in for corners down to the toe-bushings. I don't think you're going to have any complaints on the RB sway bars from anyone...
I have read on the forum that the ST front bar is 3-position adjustable, however, according to an article in GrassRoots? Motorsports you cannot use more than one position on FC's due to fit. The RB bars are a tad thicker in front and a little narrower in the rear than the ST bars.
My car certainly isn't the fastest TII on the board but it's definitely dialed in for corners down to the toe-bushings. I don't think you're going to have any complaints on the RB sway bars from anyone...
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Originally posted by Scott 89t2
hmm, the racing beat ones only fit on the rear. I had this debebt a while ago and I swore the conclusion was nobody made a front that fit the 89-91. and to just use new factory ones. it was my understanding that they were way different from 86-88 and 89-91. I don't see how mazda trix's ones could fit both.
hmm, the racing beat ones only fit on the rear. I had this debebt a while ago and I swore the conclusion was nobody made a front that fit the 89-91. and to just use new factory ones. it was my understanding that they were way different from 86-88 and 89-91. I don't see how mazda trix's ones could fit both.
I had them on an N/A and didn't notice any difference, so I haven't bothered on my TII.
how do you like your spring rates? I'm hoping for same setup this spring. GC coilovers with C/C plates on my illumias. I already have the rear link. getting F&R control arm and rear toe bushings. and probably some sway bars. I've got my front and rear strut bar in my closet. and will probably order a lower front one.
I'm just unsure of spring rates and lenghs. also did you buy the shocks from GC or how did you get them machined down for the plates? that is my other concern.
I'm just unsure of spring rates and lenghs. also did you buy the shocks from GC or how did you get them machined down for the plates? that is my other concern.
Originally posted by Scott 89t2
hmm, the racing beat ones only fit on the rear. I had this debebt a while ago and I swore the conclusion was nobody made a front that fit the 89-91. and to just use new factory ones. it was my understanding that they were way different from 86-88 and 89-91. I don't see how mazda trix's ones could fit both.
hmm, the racing beat ones only fit on the rear. I had this debebt a while ago and I swore the conclusion was nobody made a front that fit the 89-91. and to just use new factory ones. it was my understanding that they were way different from 86-88 and 89-91. I don't see how mazda trix's ones could fit both.
Later.
ok. I just found it weird that mazda trix could make them fit and racing beat couldn't. it says right on RB's page the links don't fit the front and they recommand using stock ones.
did you notice any difference? worth the $100+ ?
did you notice any difference? worth the $100+ ?
Mazdatrix's end links aren't the same as RB's.RB has some type of polyurethane insert in them.Mazdatrix uses the all metal rod-end style that RB complains about transmitting vibrations and noise.I would guess that is why Mazdatrix got them to fit 'cause they're not the same links as RB's.
As for noticing a difference I could tell quite a bit of difference but I installed the polyurethane sway bar bushings at the same time.Made the car more sensitive and i can feel imperfections in the road more than before.To me they were worth the money I spent on them.
As for noticing a difference I could tell quite a bit of difference but I installed the polyurethane sway bar bushings at the same time.Made the car more sensitive and i can feel imperfections in the road more than before.To me they were worth the money I spent on them.
Originally posted by Scott 89t2
how do you like your spring rates? I'm hoping for same setup this spring. GC coilovers with C/C plates on my illumias. I already have the rear link. getting F&R control arm and rear toe bushings. and probably some sway bars. I've got my front and rear strut bar in my closet. and will probably order a lower front one.
I'm just unsure of spring rates and lenghs. also did you buy the shocks from GC or how did you get them machined down for the plates? that is my other concern.
how do you like your spring rates? I'm hoping for same setup this spring. GC coilovers with C/C plates on my illumias. I already have the rear link. getting F&R control arm and rear toe bushings. and probably some sway bars. I've got my front and rear strut bar in my closet. and will probably order a lower front one.
I'm just unsure of spring rates and lenghs. also did you buy the shocks from GC or how did you get them machined down for the plates? that is my other concern.
The only machining that I'm aware of that was done was grinding down the Tokico's to get the coilover sleeves to slide down to the perch position. An independent shop did the install.
I love the spring rates - they're firm but not jarring. Actually rides better than when I had Intrax on my N/A. I have subs glassed and vinyled in the rear and my *** end does NOT spin out- I'm probably pulling 1G or very close. I took a buddy for a on/offramp cornering demo a couple of weeks ago (he has a 10th AE and drives it -if you know what I mean) after we were thru he asked what pieces he should order in order to make his car corner like mine. I could tell he was pretty impressed - like WOW kinda look.
As far as lengths, I have 7" in front and 8" in the rear but I think it differs from FC to FC for some reason. I could go with 6" in the front as my collars on the front 7's are spun down to the perch as low as it allows me and from the side of the fender I've got maybe 1/4-1/2" gap. It's tight. I think the std GC spring setup is 7's all around 300F/200R - you'll have to call them.
I would recommend the RB bars over the ST's though as a thicker rear bar will be more prone to induce oversteer. The RB rear bar if I remember correctly, is 5/8" and the ST rear bar is 3/4". The RB F bar is 1 1/8" and the ST F bar I'm pretty sure is 1 1/16". Also, keep in mind that all these pieces work synergistically. i.e. - click rear shock up a setting and it will also help to induce oversteer/reduce understeer. In fact I might click the rears to 5 and see how it goes for comparison.
If you want serious cornering don't shortchange your gear by getting cheapass tires. Forget the Khumos and Nittos and AVS Intermediates. They are a good tire, good bang for the buck but they will not give you as much grip near limit as P-Zeros, SO-3's, T1-S or Pilots. I can tell you from experience the Toyo Proxes T1-S wears better than the p-zero or the Michelin Pilot and their wet grip is probably as good or close to the Bridgestone. I don't really care about wet, they just came that way. Their dry is on a par with any of them. They are the best tire I've owned and I will get another set when I go to forged wheels in Spring.
Also, if you want to get rid of the cornering thru marshmallows feel at limit get the RB toe-eliminator bushings. This has a LOT to do with why my car does what it does in the corners. Driving this car at speed in high speed corners changing 2 lanes to the inside is where this car is in it's element. Phew, made it - gotta go. Grandma's in town, Lord of the Rings, lunch, etc. etc....
I bought the shocks from - www.shox.com
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