jdmrbust

My car wont go above 4k rpms- my secondary injectors. I tested the plugs and they all have 12v pwr, I tested my injectors and they work, they dont look cloged and the resistance was w/ in spec. My cas is also within spec. WHAT GIVES?????

1987 Base w/ t2 swap also s4 and s4 t2 harness and ecu.

jdmrbust

Should i try to get a diff. ecu?

jdmrbust

ok i'll just have my own thread all to my self here, lol. what about my fuel press reg not having a vacuum line part on it? would that cause this in any way-

jdmrbust

or that a relocated my batt and dont ahve a ground going to the block from the batt directly?

HAILERS

TurboII emissions harness on a na front harness? You need to *fix* the wires in one of the connectors called X-15. See the FSM if you have not already done so. If you have not, then you probably have 12v input on the ECU boost sensor input pin.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ghlight=fem-01

jdmrbust

i just need to cut the brown-red
wire right?

jdmrbust

well, i Just did that I had found that a little bit a go searching for info on my problem in anouther thead you had posted int thanks HAILERS, I am lost on where to go from here on my injectors, I think I have done as much as I can beside try a diff ecu.

13b4me

Are your plug wires in the right order?

jdmrbust

I dont see how they could be wrong, but an someone tell me how they go for sure, I have the fron pri. and sec. inj's plugged into the part of the harness that has the green water sens plug, and the rear ones from the part of the harness that has the plugs for the air bypass solenoid valve, ect.

HAILERS

Front primary....light green is one wire the other brown.

Front secondary.....light green/white and the other brown/white


Rear primary........light green/black and the other brown/red


Rear secondary......light green/red and the other brown/yellow.

The ONLY way to figure this out is to take a digital meter and go to the ECU and with the key to ON read the voltage at each injector wire at the small plug. It should be 12vdc at each. When the engine turns over the cas lets the ECU know when to put a ground on those four wires to make the injectors open/shut.

Do this: pull the cas out of its hole. Leave the plug on the cas. Disconnect the small plug from the trail and the lead coil assy's. Turn the key to ON. Spin the gear on the bottom of the cas. You should hear the injectors click as you spin the cas bottom gear. Does that happen>?

jdmrbust

yes, that does happen. after i tested it i put it back together, and it wont start now- I think it flooding out when i turn the key ON i here a constant ticking ffrom what sounds to be the secondary injector???????? now i have to go figure that out.

jdmrbust

Hailers, am I supposed to hear the secondaries, or just the primaries to verify the cas is working?

HAILERS

Just the primaries. I've done this for kicks and I can hear them so you should be able also to hear them. I say pull the plugs small plugs off the coil assy's because you'll cause spark if you leave them connected and it'll mask the sound of the primarys clicking. You might also pull your bac's plug off so you won't hear its clicking.

The secondaries won't click until over 3500 rpm. You can't spin a cas that fast.

EDIT: WELL DAMN ME. I got you confused with another post. My bad. Forget what I said about spinning the cas. Secondarys won't do squat. Sorry 'bout that.

HAILERS

The constant clicking is probably the bac. PUll it's plug off and the click will stop. The injectors won't click unless the cas turns. Again, I apologize about asking you to remove the cas and spin it over. That only applies to a car that won't start or the primay injectors are suspected of not firing.

Make sure the cas is installed with the front pulley aligned with the fixed pointer and the cas bottom gear is aligned with the fixed spot on the cas body. It should start even if the cas shaft rotates some when you install the cas.

jdmrbust

lol- well i did what you said anyway and i did hear the primaries.