I bought this RX7 for 1200 .Owner claimed is was a bad fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump, sock and cleaned the lines with an fuel system cleaner. I also cleaned the plugs and it started right up. But its idling like this and every time I put it in D (Its Auto) it dies.

Here's a video



I didn't replace the fuel filter since its on order


I think it might be a vacuum leak or the fuel filter.

Thanks

 

That's more then a rough idle, do a compression check. After that make sure both rotors are getting fuel and spark

 

I had 95+ on front and 85+ on rear.I checked for spark and fuel prior to starting it.

It idles at 8-900 as you can see.if ii give it some gas it will sounds nomal.

Thank you for your input

 

Vacuum Leaks, TPS, Timing

Make sure to start the vacuum leak check with the intake side of the throttle body, while you're at it make sure the AFM moves smoothly and is free of debris. I recently had a S5 vert brought to me that was running this bad and the culprit was a chestnut shell holding the AFM at max.

 

Ill check on those when I get home from work. Thanks

 

You also need to make sure both rotors are receiving fuel from the primary injectors. Testing for fuel flow to the engine just proves there is fuel flow, but doesn't necessarily mean each rotor is receiving fuel unless that's how you tested it.

 

How do I check if the rotors are recieving fuel?

 

You would have to disable the coils and remove a spark plug and see if a spray comes out of the plug hole as the engine is turned over.

 

if i had a nickel for everytime i saw someone selling an FC with a bad engine that claimed "all it needs is a new fuel pump" i'd have a few bucks, but a few free bucks is still a few free bucks.

were the numbers 3 consecutive of that reading or did you just do a peak and hold test, like a piston engine?

a rotary compression test would be as follows:

F 110/108/110
R 105/108/106

which you can't do with a peak/hold test.

 

Yes. I did the comp check.removed the schrader valve. I got 95+x3 in front and 85+x3 in rear.

 

near the secondary injectors there is 2 capped ports, you can inject some carb cleaner into each one to identify if a rotor isn't getting fuel while it is running.

 

Ill check the fsm for the location of the secondary injectors

 

passenger side of the engine below the throttle body.

 

I sprayed those last night. What about the primary?

 

those enter into the primary ports, if there was no difference in how it ran then you should check ignition for a fouled plug or faulty wire/coil.

 

I already told you all this stuff through facebook hahaha

Two places, same answers, just start going for ****! Best way

 

Did you spray the cleaner into the ports or around the ports to check for a vacuum leak?

 

I sprayed carb cleaner into that little nipple at the front of the fuel rail

 

that's the pressure regulator. ugh, i am not taking pictures for a how to. they're 2 ports with vacuum caps on them, not difficult to miss.

 

I apologize for my stupidity.im fairly new to this....sorry

 

 

Ok I see.thank you.

If your looking into the engine bay, from the front of the car, the vacuum port closest to you, goes to solenoid or cylinder looking thing right?

Do I just spray a few hits of carb cleaner while the engine in running?

Thanks for your help so far.

 

the one facing the front leads to the pressure sensor, it can be disconnected temporarily for this test.

it's easiest to grab a rather short length of vacuum hose, about 1' and use that as a jumper to spray some carb cleaner in while the engine is running.

 

I've heard that one plenty of times.

Sounds like the numbers are too low. If it was a 5 speed car with low compression, you could milk it by for a while, but the auto puts too much load on engine at idle.

 

I removed the T spark plugs,disabled the coils, and turned it over and the spark plugs were dry.

So I need to clean or replaced the injectors? All 4? Thanks