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Searched-Rough Idle after 1st start up

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Old 09-08-13, 09:02 PM
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Thumbs up Searched-Rough Idle after 1st start up

I bought this RX7 for 1200 .Owner claimed is was a bad fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump, sock and cleaned the lines with an fuel system cleaner. I also cleaned the plugs and it started right up. But its idling like this and every time I put it in D (Its Auto) it dies.

Here's a video



I didn't replace the fuel filter since its on order


I think it might be a vacuum leak or the fuel filter.

Thanks
Old 09-08-13, 09:10 PM
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mattg prob nt coming back

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That's more then a rough idle, do a compression check. After that make sure both rotors are getting fuel and spark
Old 09-08-13, 09:12 PM
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I had 95+ on front and 85+ on rear.I checked for spark and fuel prior to starting it.

It idles at 8-900 as you can see.if ii give it some gas it will sounds nomal.

Thank you for your input

Last edited by jm526; 09-08-13 at 09:22 PM.
Old 09-09-13, 12:03 AM
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Vacuum Leaks, TPS, Timing

Make sure to start the vacuum leak check with the intake side of the throttle body, while you're at it make sure the AFM moves smoothly and is free of debris. I recently had a S5 vert brought to me that was running this bad and the culprit was a chestnut shell holding the AFM at max.
Old 09-09-13, 02:09 PM
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Ill check on those when I get home from work. Thanks
Old 09-09-13, 02:24 PM
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You also need to make sure both rotors are receiving fuel from the primary injectors. Testing for fuel flow to the engine just proves there is fuel flow, but doesn't necessarily mean each rotor is receiving fuel unless that's how you tested it.
Old 09-09-13, 04:21 PM
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How do I check if the rotors are recieving fuel?
Old 09-09-13, 05:03 PM
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You would have to disable the coils and remove a spark plug and see if a spray comes out of the plug hole as the engine is turned over.
Old 09-09-13, 05:28 PM
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if i had a nickel for everytime i saw someone selling an FC with a bad engine that claimed "all it needs is a new fuel pump" i'd have a few bucks, but a few free bucks is still a few free bucks.

were the numbers 3 consecutive of that reading or did you just do a peak and hold test, like a piston engine?

a rotary compression test would be as follows:

F 110/108/110
R 105/108/106

which you can't do with a peak/hold test.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-09-13 at 05:32 PM.
Old 09-09-13, 05:52 PM
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Yes. I did the comp check.removed the schrader valve. I got 95+x3 in front and 85+x3 in rear.
Old 09-09-13, 05:55 PM
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near the secondary injectors there is 2 capped ports, you can inject some carb cleaner into each one to identify if a rotor isn't getting fuel while it is running.
Old 09-09-13, 06:05 PM
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Ill check the fsm for the location of the secondary injectors
Old 09-09-13, 06:11 PM
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passenger side of the engine below the throttle body.
Old 09-09-13, 06:18 PM
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I sprayed those last night. What about the primary?
Old 09-09-13, 06:58 PM
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those enter into the primary ports, if there was no difference in how it ran then you should check ignition for a fouled plug or faulty wire/coil.
Old 09-09-13, 07:14 PM
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I already told you all this stuff through facebook hahaha

Two places, same answers, just start going for ****! Best way
Old 09-09-13, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jm526
I sprayed those last night. What about the primary?
Did you spray the cleaner into the ports or around the ports to check for a vacuum leak?
Old 09-09-13, 07:49 PM
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I sprayed carb cleaner into that little nipple at the front of the fuel rail
Old 09-09-13, 08:37 PM
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that's the pressure regulator. ugh, i am not taking pictures for a how to. they're 2 ports with vacuum caps on them, not difficult to miss.
Old 09-09-13, 09:01 PM
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I apologize for my stupidity.im fairly new to this....sorry
Old 09-10-13, 09:20 AM
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Old 09-10-13, 09:40 AM
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Ok I see.thank you.

If your looking into the engine bay, from the front of the car, the vacuum port closest to you, goes to solenoid or cylinder looking thing right?

Do I just spray a few hits of carb cleaner while the engine in running?

Thanks for your help so far.
Old 09-10-13, 10:15 AM
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the one facing the front leads to the pressure sensor, it can be disconnected temporarily for this test.

it's easiest to grab a rather short length of vacuum hose, about 1' and use that as a jumper to spray some carb cleaner in while the engine is running.
Old 09-10-13, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
if i had a nickel for everytime i saw someone selling an FC with a bad engine that claimed "all it needs is a new fuel pump"


I've heard that one plenty of times.

Sounds like the numbers are too low. If it was a 5 speed car with low compression, you could milk it by for a while, but the auto puts too much load on engine at idle.
Old 09-10-13, 10:40 PM
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I removed the T spark plugs,disabled the coils, and turned it over and the spark plugs were dry.

So I need to clean or replaced the injectors? All 4? Thanks


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