as for the green sensor that broke on you I have a NEW one on hand the cost is $45.00.
Are you going to replace the thermal pellet @ this time ???

0n the front hub bolt some times I have to add heat to make it come off easy.

Dan

 

We're hoping at this point he won't have to pull the bolt, Dan, and create even more confusion for him...

Of course, all of it all leads to a rebuild anyway...

BTW- I noticed that thermal pellet mod dropped my oil pressure down to 56-58 at cruise now- what's up with that???

 

I can't remember what the original looked like, but this one is just coated with the residue from the oil.

Yes, that that inlet does have passages that lead downward, so i should be able to perform the oil pan test.

I have to get an impact wrench, and a floor jack today so I can do that test, and get the main nut off.

 

Remember guys I am quite poor right now, I am just trying to fix this as quickly and inexpensively as possible, so I can get back to work. this is my daily driver. i just wanna get it going again, so i can make save some money to find another car, preferably another 7. even though it's kinda hard to stay true with gas prices like they are. he he

 

This isn't just my daily driver, it's my only ride.

 

Does anyone know the sequence that the ps pump, and a/c compressor are supposed to be removed. I just can't figure it out. The FSM isn't much help.

 

Oh yeah, and I should have an impact wrench this evening to tackle the main shaft nut/bolt.

 

Oh yeah, and I should have an impact wrench this evening to tackle the main shaft nut/bolt.

 

I am not trying to cause any confusion for him if I do I am sorry about that part.

0n the thermal pellet causing low oil pressure if the moter is a high miles and the old thermal pellet was not working right than its allready t00 late for this up-grade.

Dan

 

So no one knows the sequence the ps pump, and a/c compression need to be remove to be able to get the brackets for both removed from the front cover?

 

Take the P/S Stuff off first, then do the A/C, it's pretty easy once you get going.

 

Thanks, I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

 

I am now waking up, yet another day working on the engine. My back is killing me, but damnit I'll get this thing fixed.
I'm about to get out there and work on the ps pump, and a/c comp. woohoo!

Hey Dan Atkins, if you stop back in here, what's the price on front cover gasket, and the freeze outs for the front?

 

I finally got the ps pump, a/c comp, and bracket off. I guess it's easy when you have more than a hammer and a screwdriver. he he
All that's left before I go for the main nut is the crank angle sensor.
is there anything anyone else would like to let me know before I tackle the main bolt?

 

I really hope I'm able to get everything back together.

 

Good luck and keep the pictures coming! I'm going to have to do this to fix that leek eventually.

 

Sure thing, I'm hopeing someone will be able to learn from my mistakes.
Hopefully everything will go well, and the my 7 will be back on the road. I miss it.

 

Does anyone have any other idea as to how to break the main shaft bolt. I am having no luck getting an impact wrench to do it.

 

OK, this is why I asked this question a couple of days ago (if the passage led downward). I'm wondering why you're so hell-bent on taking that front bolt off, when you're not even sure it's a freeze plug problem yet. Have you put any water in that big coolant passage open at the top yet? I know the top passages go into the upper two passages of that rotor housing, but they'll make their way down to the lower passages after it flows back to the rear housing, then comes back forward to your freeze plugs. I'm not trying to tell you not to do it (break the front bolt), just enlightening you to the possibility you'll be breaking it for nothing...

 

I agree with Wayne and in reading ultra basic questions in the nature of which acessory to take off first, i wonder if your going to be able to reset the front pack properly once you drop a "t" bearing?

As I stated earlier - I have done coutless 13b's and not yet have had to replace a freeze plug as the thin ledge in the front and or intermediate housing near the water jacket blow well before a fp.

 

Okay, I will check the water passage to see if it drains out the oil pan.
You see the reason I think it's these feeze outs, because the water level drops and the oil level rises even without pressure on the coolant system.

 

Oil level meaning the frothy mix.

 

just be careful once you take that bolt out. thats where your going to run into trouble.

 

Is the impact wrench the only way to break it?

 

No, but it's much easier to do it with the engine out of the car & braced, with the flywheel locked...

And, you know, even when you get water coming out of the oil pan drain hole, that's still not gonna tell ya exactly where it's coming from, until you actually pour some into the rotor housings too (although I would use some type of light oil for that, you don't want any rust in there, if they happen to be good)...In other words, if you fill the lower 1/3 or so of the rotor housings with, say, some MMO, and neither of them leak, only THEN can you zero in on the freeze plugs...