Well i figured out the problem with my car. It appears to have the coolant seals bad as it pushes all the antifreeze out the overflow when running and if i take the cap off it pushes it right out the spout. So i guess my question is where do i go from here. Do i buy the seals for the coolant and hope that is all i will need? Or just go for a master rebuild kit and go from there? Car runs great other then this which causes the car to overheat. Any idea's other then the coolant seals? I don't think it is a waterpump issue though. Seems to come from that area where all the bumbliing. Plus the antifreeze did boil in the radiator which worries me. I dont see any leaks so i am a lost. I dont smell anything in the exhaust though. I am new to rotary motors and this type of issues. Any help is appreciated. Side note this seems to happen when the thermostat opens up.

 

master kit or a step below it, do not just buy the basic coolant seals. do it right or do it twice.

 

You could have lost a coolant seal groove in one of the irons as well(causing failed coolant seal). In addition to a rebuild kit dont be shocked if you're looking for an iron.

 

Ok so i will need one of these kits:
http://atkinsrotary.com/store/produc...cat=624&page=1

where do i get irons?

 

^THIS!^ [My last engine failed because the coolant channel had broken in two places on one plate and was critically thin on another..] Irons can be purchased from the classifieds section or craigslist.

Do not buy anything until you pull and disassemble it. At least.. If you can afford a couple days more for shipping [You'll probably spend at least that long cleaning the parts anyway]

Depending on your budget.. Your apex seals might be reusable [check their clearance in the rotors], your housings might be reusable, you'll probably have to buy at least one replacement plate.. At minimum you should replace all the coolant seals, oil seals [not the holders/rings].

Ideally.. Pineapple HD water seals, oil seals + rings + springs, intake/exhaust gaskets, apex/corner/side seals and springs, all new bearings pressed in, front/rear main seals, new FD rotor housings, FD corner seal springs, and 5/6th port sleeve inserts [NA only]..

All depends on the budget and wear of the current parts.
BTW, how many miles are on your current engine?

Edit: Also when you have the rebuild installed, be religious with your coolant changes.. Cast iron plates love to rust..

 

91k and i might be able to spend about $1,500 total on the motor for the car and that is pushing it. I might just sell the car before i put that much money into it.

 

If you already feel that way now, quit while you're ahead..
RX-7 is not the car for you

 

Decided to buy another motor and keep this one for parts. I have a few numbers to call see if they still have it.

 

Just make sure to flush all the coolant out of the leaking engine. Blow the chambers dry with compressed air then give them a thorough coating of fogging oil. Otherwise everything will rust solid and all the internal parts will be destroyed.

 

I just remembered that the antifreeze was mostly water and rusted color. So I wonder if the radiator might be partially clogged.

 

i would recommend trying to find a cheaper already rebuilt used engine.

one thing you have to be willing to accept with these cars is that after 20-25 years the original engines have hit the end of their lifespan as far as the coolant seals go and if not, the oil seal rubber o-rings, the apex seals and rotor housings.

 

Oh man. Yea, take that engine apart and look, but you can probably reuse everything except the coolant seals and the bad plate.

What I would do: Pineapple HD water seals kit, FD corner seal springs, replacement plate, new oil seals, 5th/6th port sleeve inserts, intake/exhaust gaskets [the original ones will probably tear when you take it apart].. Probably about $500..

Yes you should flush out the radiator and overflow tank.

 

Talked to the previous owner and he gave me a list of parts that added up to over 1k into this car. Not sure what was all done to it but looks like a overhaul was done. I don't have the list anymore(washermachine ate it). So i guess i could try a new waterpump and go from there?

 

pressure test the system from the filler on the thermostat housing. if it pushes water into the overflow below 13psi, replace the cap on the radiator. water pump has nothing to do with your issue.

 

The cap is brand new.

 

Ok i will have to take it somewhere to get it pressure test though. Could it be a clogged radiator doing this or most certain its a coolant seal?

 

I had a 1988 nissan 300zx so i know how hard parts and how parts where out over years. Got rid of it do to lack of parts available for it.

 

i'd just double check it's ability to hold pressure before pushing into the overflow. another simple test is to start the car cold and see if the upper radiator starts to balloon up within a matter of a few minutes. there is simply no way that the heat generated by the engine produces very much pressure that quickly so you can assume the compression leaking from the engine is overpressurizing the system.

 

The caps holds till the heat starts to climb in the motor. Usually blows out when the heat guage makes it 1/2-3/4 way up. Then all steam and antifreeze comes out the cap into the overflow.

 

squeeze the upper hose when the car is stone cold then start it up and check it 1 minute later, 2 minutes later, 3 minutes later.. is pretty stiff now? if yes, blown coolant seal.

 

Here is a link to a video i took.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v4...=VIDEO0007.mp4
Mind you i just topped it off and didn't relieve any air out the relieve valve. Either way looks like the coolant seal is bad.

 

sure looks like it.

 

Damn oh well time for a rebuild thread i guess.