Scrip7's Vert Shell Resto Thread
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,187
Likes: 3
From: Oklahoma City
I stripped the interior of the old gray carpet which had been dyed black with an aerosol paint type dye. Looked like crap so I opted to rip it out and install s5 OEM black carpet.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,187
Likes: 3
From: Oklahoma City
New insulation goes in first. I bought a 4' x 6' roll of it at Pep Boys for under $20. It comes with a foil mesh backing and densely-woven fabric very similar to OEM.

I chose not to glue the insulation to the floorpan but rather to the carpet the same way as OEM. Makes things much easier to work with when dealing with wiring repairs or water damage later. I use Liquid Nails (not the heavy-duty version) because it stays pliable which helps when positioning the carpet over the insulation.

The carpet laid down quite easily. Pressed it down nice and snug to the adhesive, followed by careful cutting through the insulation where the seat track, dash mounting bolts and shift boot frame are mounted.

This carpet came out of a '91 Vert (Ebay purchase) and is in remarkably good condition for 17-year-old carpet. A lot can be said for the quality of Mazda OEM carpets, especially in the 80's and 90's.

I chose not to glue the insulation to the floorpan but rather to the carpet the same way as OEM. Makes things much easier to work with when dealing with wiring repairs or water damage later. I use Liquid Nails (not the heavy-duty version) because it stays pliable which helps when positioning the carpet over the insulation.

The carpet laid down quite easily. Pressed it down nice and snug to the adhesive, followed by careful cutting through the insulation where the seat track, dash mounting bolts and shift boot frame are mounted.

This carpet came out of a '91 Vert (Ebay purchase) and is in remarkably good condition for 17-year-old carpet. A lot can be said for the quality of Mazda OEM carpets, especially in the 80's and 90's.
Last edited by scrip7; Jul 28, 2008 at 01:10 AM.
nice- if I had to be a critic it would be how awesome if you put a stock TII motor in the car- then it would have looked like the car mazda should have exported to here.
Your wife will love it, and you knowing every inch of the car will give confidence in owning it.
Good tip on the liquid nails too- I was wondering how to secure my heat shielding with the foil side down.
for the foam tape you used- make sure its closed cell foam, regular foam tape will absorb moisture like a sponge, closed
cell will not.
Your wife will love it, and you knowing every inch of the car will give confidence in owning it.
Good tip on the liquid nails too- I was wondering how to secure my heat shielding with the foil side down.
for the foam tape you used- make sure its closed cell foam, regular foam tape will absorb moisture like a sponge, closed
cell will not.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,187
Likes: 3
From: Oklahoma City
Well it appears I'm faced with replacing all of my locks with another matched set or having all of mine re-keyed. The guy that sold me the car gave me a key that fits none of the locks and he's not responding to my messages either. Why on earth would someone sell a person a car without functioning keys?
Hey, if your wife is getting the vert, you wanna gimme one of your extras?
Just kidding, but everything looks really good. It must feel really good to restore a car like this. I can't wait to do it myself.
Good work! Keep posting pics!
Just kidding, but everything looks really good. It must feel really good to restore a car like this. I can't wait to do it myself.
Good work! Keep posting pics!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,187
Likes: 3
From: Oklahoma City
I disassembled the A/C evaporator case (simple) and removed the original expansion valve, flushed the evap core with A/C solvent followed by compressed air. Installed a new expansion valve rated for R134a, cleaned the case and core fins and reassembled the case:

Installed it in the car:

Connected the A/C lines using new o-rings with a light coat of refrigerant oil:

Cleaned up and installed the blower housing:

Installed it in the car:

Connected the A/C lines using new o-rings with a light coat of refrigerant oil:

Cleaned up and installed the blower housing:
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,187
Likes: 3
From: Oklahoma City
Thanks guys. The closer I get to completion the more excited I get about the whole project. So far it has been a seamless resto (the only exception being the lock issue) and it's been fun. I have collected most of the major engine parts to do the build.....FD rotor housings, a rotor that's in great shape, clutch kit, etc. Just need apex seals and an overhaul gasket and seal set and then it's build time. Should be this fall for sure.
And Foxman....if that's your Vert in your sig pic man that's a gorgeous car! Are you parting that one out or a different one?
Your top looks brand new. Mine isn't torn anywhere yet but it has shrunk like a ****!
And Foxman....if that's your Vert in your sig pic man that's a gorgeous car! Are you parting that one out or a different one?
Your top looks brand new. Mine isn't torn anywhere yet but it has shrunk like a ****!
Last edited by scrip7; Sep 1, 2008 at 09:34 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,187
Likes: 3
From: Oklahoma City
Definately. I have done rotary builds since 1982, the most recent one almost a year ago for another forum member and countless piston engine builds since 1976 (shows my age haha). I won't be doing any porting on this engine like I usually do. This one will be completely stock (wife's car).
Last edited by scrip7; Sep 1, 2008 at 10:46 AM.
I am looking to get a tII motor for it and have it swapped out by next spring so I will eventually be selling the NA motor or parting that motor out.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,187
Likes: 3
From: Oklahoma City
I restored the gauge cluster lens that had tons of scratches and pitting on it. I removed the lens assembly from the cluster housing (5 screws) and started with 1500 grit wet paper followed by 2000, keeping the lens surface and the paper under a constant flow of water from the kitchen sink. This obviously makes a haze which I removed using a polishing ball/drill and PlastX.
Shot of the lens after sanding:

Meguiar's PlastX:

The "after" pics don't do justice to the INSANE shine and reflectivity:
Shot of the lens after sanding:

Meguiar's PlastX:

The "after" pics don't do justice to the INSANE shine and reflectivity:
Last edited by scrip7; Oct 11, 2008 at 04:20 PM.



Keep the pics and progress coming!





