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The dynamic damper? That little rubber thing which hangs off the back of the tail housing? As I recall it just unbolts. You'll need a set of box end (preferably ratcheting) wrenches to reach the bolts, however.
The dynamic damper? That little rubber thing which hangs off the back of the tail housing? As I recall it just unbolts. You'll need a set of box end (preferably ratcheting) wrenches to reach the bolts, however.
Why?
No its more of a big metal disk filled with rubber inside the extension housing. The service manual just says to take the snap rings off then the lock nut, followed by taper cotter. But I have no clue how to get them out since they sit flush with the surface of the damper. As for why, I'm doing a transmission rebuild
The drawing is correct. Remove the snap-ring and the locknut. The tapper cotter pieces are stuffed in there by the locknut, so it make take a little force to get them loose. That's it.
If you're having trouble with the snap-ring inside the locknut, you need a better pair of snap-ring plyers.
I just did this couple months back. search, there is a thread about it. I put rags over the end of trans as the little steel ball falls that way. I think I removed both snap rings so I could tap the damper towards the trans. getting the nut loose was Challenging. Tried a strap wrench to hold it, and hammer and chisel on the corner of the nut to jar it loose.
I have the nut and snap rings off, and I was actually hitting the balancer to try and get the cotters loose, but I didn't seem to be making progress and I wanted to make sure I wasn't wasting my time.
PS. does anybody have any tips for getting off those stupid snap rings that don't have holes?
I was thinking about making a post about this: “Tools required to rebuild a transmission”. Sure the FSM has the Mazda tool part numbers, but good luck trying to find those… To rebuild a transmission you’re going to need a few things beyond the typical sockets, wrenches, and hammers.
1) MOST IMPORTANT TOOL: You need a way to hold the main shaft while you’re working on it. The manual has a special tool for this job. Without this, you’re never going to get the locknuts off and you’re never going to get them torqued back on properly.
What I ended up using was an old drive shaft. I cut off the input yoke at the universal joint and what you end up with is the exact same tool as the factory holder: A collar that will slide onto the input and output sides of the main shaft that can be clamped in a vice. Whatever you do, don’t try to clamp the main shaft in the vice without protecting the splines.
2) SECOND most important tool: Once you get down to the rear locknut that holds the 5th gear and reverse stacks, you’re going to need a really long 41mm socket. Like 2 foot long…
I ended up buying a deep well 41mm socket from Amazon. I then chopped the top of the socket off and welded in 22” a piece of pipe in the middle. (
Beyond that, a decent bearing puller will get you the rest of the way through a rebuild. As for getting the snap rings that don’t have the holes? I have a set of channel lock brand snap ring plyers. I didn’t have any issues.
I was thinking about making a post about this: “Tools required to rebuild a transmission”. Sure the FSM has the Mazda tool part numbers, but good luck trying to find those… To rebuild a transmission you’re going to need a few things beyond the typical sockets, wrenches, and hammers.
1) MOST IMPORTANT TOOL: You need a way to hold the main shaft while you’re working on it. The manual has a special tool for this job. Without this, you’re never going to get the locknuts off and you’re never going to get them torqued back on properly.
What I ended up using was an old drive shaft. I cut off the input yoke at the universal joint and what you end up with is the exact same tool as the factory holder: A collar that will slide onto the input and output sides of the main shaft that can be clamped in a vice. Whatever you do, don’t try to clamp the main shaft in the vice without protecting the splines.
2) SECOND most important tool: Once you get down to the rear locknut that holds the 5th gear and reverse stacks, you’re going to need a really long 41mm socket. Like 2 foot long…
Beyond that, a decent bearing puller will get you the rest of the way through a rebuild. As for getting the snap rings that don’t have the holes? I have a set of channel lock brand snap ring plyers. I didn’t have any issues.
I did the same as you for (1).
The FSM tool to remove the nut is no longer available. A transmission shop that I talked to said that they usually use a hammer and chisel to remove the nut. I did similar as you for (2). I bought a sears 3/4" socket and ground the back end down so that it would fit inside a long pipe. The socket already had a radial hole at the square hole (where ratchet attaches). I drilled another hole opposite the existing hole. I drilled holes in pipe to match the holes in the socket. I put short bolts (acting as pins) through the pipe and socket, and secured them with a hose clamp. I don't remember what I used on the other end of the pipe, but I was able to attach a breaker bar or torque wrench. I took me several days just to make the tool.
I bought a spare transmission which is what I rebuilt. I needed to use the car as I was doing the rebuild job. The transmission that I bought was apparently rebuilt before. I looked like the previous rebuilder just used a big hammer to whack the damper off. I was all banged up from hammer blows. I reused this damper but eventually replaced it because it would cause vibration at high speeds. I would suggest just placing a block of wood (i'e', 2"x4") against the damper and whacking the wood until the damper loosens. Sometimes it's a real bitch to get off.
I recently did my Rear Suspension springs. Without the "Factory Tool" I would have never been able to do the job properly and as easily. A "Macpherson Strut Spring Compressor" was at my local Autozone to rent for only a $50 deposit which I got back the same day...
Thank you for all the notes on how to rebuild the transmission. I have a very extreme problem at the moment. The transmission on my 1990 S5 GXL seems to only have 3 gears. First turned into some gear that will seize the engine if the clutch is depressed (Though I have not actually done this yet). Where second gear should be, does the same thing. And Neutral turned into Reverse which the transmission works perfectly in. I contacted my local Rotary Mechanic (BA Motorsport) and he told me he could replace the transmission (if he can find one) for $350-$500.
Any more help on how the linkage system works will be greatly appreciated. I can see the cup that the ball of the shifter goes in and the coat hangar thingey. I am thinking about attempting to do what I can with the linkage while the transmission is installed and I am hoping I do not need to remove it to fix it. but I am guessing that will probably be exactly what I need to do is a full rebuild. I need a quick fix so that I can enjoy my car instead of letting it sit and rot away slowly. I have a mazdaspeed shifter which has a longer ball extension and I think when I attempted to insert this (Short Throw Shifter) I screwed up the transmission.
My Manual Transmission I am thinking is Kaput. Hopefully this is not the case because the car is registered until OCT 2015. My plan was to replace the transmission with one that works and is cheap (Possible T5 Borg Warner and Adapter Plate). Then once I have my original transmission out of the car and Roxanne can be used, begin the rebuild in my apartment or in a friends garage that I can trust.
She still runs fine I started her up a few weeks back and plumes of smoke pouring from everywhere. I started her up over the weekend and allowed her to warm completely up and took a stroll around the block in reverse. Even with the front flat tire the trip worked okay (on gravel). She settled down and was idling like a tiger around 750rpm.
I started her just today (2 days later) and plumes of smoke everywhere. I threw some STA-BIL in the gas tank to preserve the tank if I cannot manage to get her working. I am considering checking the oil and doing warm-ups more often instead of just letting her sit for months.
The trouble is I have a 1995 AUDI 90 Quattro Sport that is missing catalytic converters and probably needs an overhaul on the engine. I need to make AnnaNina pass smog soon to register. I just dropped over $150 into simple things (Battery/ Wiper Blades/ Oil change) I was hoping she could be my daily driver and I would not need to be concerned with dealing with my Rotary fire breathing dragon on a daily basis.
I love my Mazda racecar and will never part with it (and I am willing to pull it all apart and reassemble it if need be). But my neighbors probably hate when I go out late at night with her and race around. I used to not want to start it near a friends house if I decided not to spend the night because of the excessive Accelerated Warm-up Noise and the warm-up.
I have the nut and snap rings off, and I was actually hitting the balancer to try and get the cotters loose, but I didn't seem to be making progress and I wanted to make sure I wasn't wasting my time.
PS. does anybody have any tips for getting off those stupid snap rings that don't have holes?
I'm still pulling the tranny apart, but I did get the dynamic balancer off. Its funny, I spent alot of time hitting it without progress. Came to the forum to make sure that's the way its supposed to come off. Went back out, and it came off with one tap
Are you saying it's unnecessary or that you have a completely different trans?
I have an S5 NA trans. Not sure how necessary they are. Mine certainly didn't have one. I think some did and some didn't. Maybe mine is an early S5. It has the external ribbing of an S5 and seems to have S5 gearing.
I swapped the tailhousing to put it in a 1st gen. The shaft didn't have one of those clunky things on it. I clearly recall hoping that it didn't have one because I wasn't sure how to remove it. Glad I got lucky, and that it worked out well for me in the end.
Thank you for all the notes on how to rebuild the transmission. I have a very extreme problem at the moment. The transmission on my 1990 S5 GXL seems to only have 3 gears. First turned into some gear that will seize the engine if the clutch is depressed (Though I have not actually done this yet). Where second gear should be, does the same thing. And Neutral turned into Reverse which the transmission works perfectly in. I contacted my local Rotary Mechanic (BA Motorsport) and he told me he could replace the transmission (if he can find one) for $350-$500. Any more help on how the linkage system works will be greatly appreciated. I can see the cup that the ball of the shifter goes in and the coat hangar thingey. I am thinking about attempting to do what I can with the linkage while the transmission is installed and I am hoping I do not need to remove it to fix it. but I am guessing that will probably be exactly what I need to do is a full rebuild. I need a quick fix so that I can enjoy my car instead of letting it sit and rot away slowly. I have a mazdaspeed shifter which has a longer ball extension and I think when I attempted to insert this (Short Throw Shifter) I screwed up the transmission. My Manual Transmission I am thinking is Kaput. Hopefully this is not the case because the car is registered until OCT 2015. My plan was to replace the transmission with one that works and is cheap (Possible T5 Borg Warner and Adapter Plate). Then once I have my original transmission out of the car and Roxanne can be used, begin the rebuild in my apartment or in a friends garage that I can trust. She still runs fine I started her up a few weeks back and plumes of smoke pouring from everywhere. I started her up over the weekend and allowed her to warm completely up and took a stroll around the block in reverse. Even with the front flat tire the trip worked okay (on gravel). She settled down and was idling like a tiger around 750rpm. I started her just today (2 days later) and plumes of smoke everywhere. I threw some STA-BIL in the gas tank to preserve the tank if I cannot manage to get her working. I am considering checking the oil and doing warm-ups more often instead of just letting her sit for months. The trouble is I have a 1995 AUDI 90 Quattro Sport that is missing catalytic converters and probably needs an overhaul on the engine. I need to make AnnaNina pass smog soon to register. I just dropped over $150 into simple things (Battery/ Wiper Blades/ Oil change) I was hoping she could be my daily driver and I would not need to be concerned with dealing with my Rotary fire breathing dragon on a daily basis. I love my Mazda racecar and will never part with it (and I am willing to pull it all apart and reassemble it if need be). But my neighbors probably hate when I go out late at night with her and race around. I used to not want to start it near a friends house if I decided not to spend the night because of the excessive Accelerated Warm-up Noise and the warm-up.
Your trans is stuck in reverse common problem remove reverse light switch stick a small stubby screw driver or Allen wrench and push the reverse detent towards the tailshaft
Sorry to revive an old thread, but after reading transmission shops use a hammer and chisel to break the nut I had to comment for anyone in the future hopefully.
To stop the rotating assembly from spinning, just put the trans in any gear, put an old clutch plate on the input shaft and clamp the plate with a big heavy desk vice. A big plumbers pipe wrench will fit on the nut easy. Use penetrating oil and hit the wrench with a hammer to impact it loose if its stubborn, mine shocked loose with one solid hit.
As for the taper cotter, use penetrating oil if its stuck, remove all the snap rings including the one behind it, hit the whole dynamic balancer backwards (thats why remove the rear snap ring). The taper will break loose and either fall out or can be picked out by hand.
I almost gave up on this completely before using my brain and looking back it was as easy as brake pads
, hopefully this saves someone some headache
That's a good idea Maxpert_FC. As I mentioned above in post #9, I just made a tool similar to the one called for in the FSM. This way I was able to torque the nut to spec during reassembly. I think I held the shaft from rotating just as you did by using an old clutch plate. Your right about removing the damper by hitting backwards to relieve the pressure on the split taper ring. IICR, it was still a bitch to break loose. Here are a couple photos of the tool that I made.
Transmission S_O_S_
I threw some STA-BIL in the gas tank to preserve the tank if I cannot manage to get her working. I am considering checking the oil and doing warm-ups more often instead of just letting her sit for months.
