S5 TII swap finished but turbo wont spool and boggs when i step on it?!
03-26-11, 01:31 PM
#26
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03-26-11, 01:36 PM
#27
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You know what my battery is crap i have to hook it up to a charger every time i start it. And i relocated it to the back.i cut off the power terminal and climped the wires to a monstercable and the grownd is attached to the shock for the hatch. I sanded the paint their for a better connection.
03-26-11, 06:17 PM
#28
So, if you're using an S4 block, did you swap on an S5 front cover to use the electric MOP/OMP? Or maybe you're pre-mixing and the S5 MOP is zip-tied somewhere to prevent limp mode?
For the injectors, check that they have 12V at the ECU with the key on. You could also use an LED to check that an injector is pulsing. And I think I mentioned via PM the testing procedure in the FSM for visually checking that the secondaries fire. Remove manifold and rails & tie the injectors in place. Disconnect the boost sensor vac line (simulates load), then jump the fuel pump test connector and put the key to on.
For the injectors, check that they have 12V at the ECU with the key on. You could also use an LED to check that an injector is pulsing. And I think I mentioned via PM the testing procedure in the FSM for visually checking that the secondaries fire. Remove manifold and rails & tie the injectors in place. Disconnect the boost sensor vac line (simulates load), then jump the fuel pump test connector and put the key to on.
03-26-11, 07:36 PM
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So, if you're using an S4 block, did you swap on an S5 front cover to use the electric MOP/OMP? Or maybe you're pre-mixing and the S5 MOP is zip-tied somewhere to prevent limp mode?
For the injectors, check that they have 12V at the ECU with the key on. You could also use an LED to check that an injector is pulsing. And I think I mentioned via PM the testing procedure in the FSM for visually checking that the secondaries fire. Remove manifold and rails & tie the injectors in place. Disconnect the boost sensor vac line (simulates load), then jump the fuel pump test connector and put the key to on.
For the injectors, check that they have 12V at the ECU with the key on. You could also use an LED to check that an injector is pulsing. And I think I mentioned via PM the testing procedure in the FSM for visually checking that the secondaries fire. Remove manifold and rails & tie the injectors in place. Disconnect the boost sensor vac line (simulates load), then jump the fuel pump test connector and put the key to on.
03-26-11, 08:55 PM
#31
Yeah...that'd cause a big problem. Hopefully that's the only issue, and you're good to go.
Blackrotary23, a disconnected or bad MOP should still turn on the check engine light at some point, but apparently not in the OP's case. It would still show up if you pull codes or test the MOP per the FSM specs.
Blackrotary23, a disconnected or bad MOP should still turn on the check engine light at some point, but apparently not in the OP's case. It would still show up if you pull codes or test the MOP per the FSM specs.
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