S5 Tii Fuel Cut Hackjob and weird decel issue
#26
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
An error code usually means a poor connection is involved, thus replacing an item will usually not solve the problem in this case. You need to look at the TPS plug and clean it up and make sure the connection is a solid one and look at how the TPS wires plug into the ECU as one of them might be pulled back within the ECU plug. And it's best to take TPS measurements at the ECU and not the plug itself.
#27
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Error code 25 being the PRCV. Plug has but two wires. B/W reads 12 volts w/key to on. The Blue/Orange wire reads less than 2 volts w/key to on. Idling (first 20 seconds) less than 2 volts and after 90 seconds of idling the voltage reads 12 volts. Pin 3M of the ECU is for the Blue/Orange wire and again, best to take the measurements from the ECU.
#28
I will go check the connections at the ground and I set the new TPS via resistance measurements to 1k ohms at rest and watched as it went to 5k. At the very least, I have eliminated that variable. I will check the connections again,
I honestly do not know if the PRCV is still on the car. Many things were randomly removed from this car.
Took the car for a quick test drive and now I threw a solid code 5 (knock sensor). So, I shall check that now as well.
Thanks again Satch and Happy Thanksgiving!
I honestly do not know if the PRCV is still on the car. Many things were randomly removed from this car.
Took the car for a quick test drive and now I threw a solid code 5 (knock sensor). So, I shall check that now as well.
Thanks again Satch and Happy Thanksgiving!
#29
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
I will go check the connections at the ground and I set the new TPS via resistance measurements to 1k ohms at rest and watched as it went to 5k. At the very least, I have eliminated that variable. I will check the connections again,
I honestly do not know if the PRCV is still on the car. Many things were randomly removed from this car.
Took the car for a quick test drive and now I threw a solid code 5 (knock sensor). So, I shall check that now as well.
Thanks again Satch and Happy Thanksgiving!
I honestly do not know if the PRCV is still on the car. Many things were randomly removed from this car.
Took the car for a quick test drive and now I threw a solid code 5 (knock sensor). So, I shall check that now as well.
Thanks again Satch and Happy Thanksgiving!
#30
Checked that via the ECU connection, everything measured out correctly.
I took another look at the hacked up ecu wires. This is what I found:
This is assuming that I am reading the pins properly. These would be from left to right facing the ecu unit.
Pins:
3A is grounded (supposed to be ground, maybe added another ground just to be safe?)
3B is grounded (supposed to be ground, maybe added another ground just to be safe?)
2C is grounded
2B is grounded
Also, what color plug is PRCV? I cannot locate it in the FSM or via Search
This is 2c and 2b.
I took another look at the hacked up ecu wires. This is what I found:
This is assuming that I am reading the pins properly. These would be from left to right facing the ecu unit.
Pins:
3A is grounded (supposed to be ground, maybe added another ground just to be safe?)
3B is grounded (supposed to be ground, maybe added another ground just to be safe?)
2C is grounded
2B is grounded
Also, what color plug is PRCV? I cannot locate it in the FSM or via Search
This is 2c and 2b.
Last edited by djSL; 11-27-14 at 04:31 PM. Reason: Added photo and information
#32
After re-checking the pins, it seems that the following are grounded.
3g
3e - these seem to be spliced into a common ground that runs up into the harness (it almost looks factory)
3h
3a
3b
I am starting to think that the CEL 12 has to be related to the connection at the plug. The plug and tps connector seem to be just a little too short, thus making it kind of a tight fight to get them connected. This could result in a loss of contact when the motor moves under acceleration. I will test this tomorrow with a friend holding them together closer, and if it seems to be the problem I will lengthen the TPS harness wires.
I need to check for vacuum leaks more thoroughly as well.
3g
3e - these seem to be spliced into a common ground that runs up into the harness (it almost looks factory)
3h
3a
3b
I am starting to think that the CEL 12 has to be related to the connection at the plug. The plug and tps connector seem to be just a little too short, thus making it kind of a tight fight to get them connected. This could result in a loss of contact when the motor moves under acceleration. I will test this tomorrow with a friend holding them together closer, and if it seems to be the problem I will lengthen the TPS harness wires.
I need to check for vacuum leaks more thoroughly as well.
#33
Update: Extended the tps wires in hopes that it would solve the intermittent issue. No luck. Tested for vacuum leaks and didn't find any. It does seem like the car is running extremely rich though as we sprayed starter fluid into the intake and it stumbled a bit.
#34
Well I took off the UIM and looked around. Everything was routed correctly and I replaced some vacuum hose as I went.
The weird thing is that when I swap out ECU's, my original ecu only doesn't flash any code. The ECU I borrowed flashes code 12 and 25.
However, both still hit have the CEL come on under throttle and disappear after. I am going to reset the TPS again at the ECU.
The weird thing is that when I swap out ECU's, my original ecu only doesn't flash any code. The ECU I borrowed flashes code 12 and 25.
However, both still hit have the CEL come on under throttle and disappear after. I am going to reset the TPS again at the ECU.
#38
You need to check the TPS via that three pin green plug near the passenger side strut tower. 2nd Gen TPS Adjustment
#42
As in brand spanking new. Put it in and it didn't change anything. This leads me to think that there is a short or some wire not properly connected. The pins at the ecu seemed fine though.
Took it for a short drive with the tps unplugged. For the most part, it drove much better.
Took it for a short drive with the tps unplugged. For the most part, it drove much better.
#46
So I have been slacking lately on figuring this out. I discovered that the "new" TPS I purchased was defective from the factory ( would not adjust close to the FSM specs) and promptly had a new one shipped out to me.
So here is the deal:
Installed new new tps, and set it to the proper specs via the FSM. Car runs fine for about a minute and then goes all whacky. Sometimes the throttle bounces, sometimes it sticks at 3k or some other random RPM. I was told the motor was not streetported, but it sure idles like it is.
What else could be causing this? I have know it is a TPS related problem but I have checked and eliminated all the common suspects.
So here is the deal:
Installed new new tps, and set it to the proper specs via the FSM. Car runs fine for about a minute and then goes all whacky. Sometimes the throttle bounces, sometimes it sticks at 3k or some other random RPM. I was told the motor was not streetported, but it sure idles like it is.
What else could be causing this? I have know it is a TPS related problem but I have checked and eliminated all the common suspects.
#49
There is slack in the throttle cable so tension would not be the issue. If I press the accelerator, it will sometimes stick at 3, then slowly go down, back up, or whatever the hell it wants to do. Still has a lumpy idle and has a hesitation or miss somewhere. I checked the coils by swapping them with known working units off my other rx7 and that made no difference.
Once again, if I unplug the tps the car runs a little better.
Once again, if I unplug the tps the car runs a little better.