no the only thing s4 is the car, and the under the dash harness. ecu, injectors are s5 Tll and the engine is jdm s5 Tll

 

You stated you have spark. How did you test this? Do you have a spare CAS to play with?

 

i pulled the wires off the plug and checked for a arc, and when i start it just cranks away and does not try and start at all. so the computer, wires and injectors all came out of a running car that that just recently blew its engine. so I know the injectors are good and the ecu was good. I have gas flow, and spark. is only the ECU responsible for the injectors or anything else? and yea i have two extra CAS

 

Then unplug the CAS and connect in another one and spin it w/the key to on and listen for the injectors (primary) to click. Before doing this disconnect the two wire plug from the leading coil and the two plugs housing six wires from the trailing coil so the coils don't fire and drown out the sound of the injectors clicking.

 

save urself time and just buy a standalone setup. also nice sig, kablam was my favorite effin show

 

how loud will the injectors be? and I plan on going MS down the road but $$$ is a issue and im working with what I got

 

Loud enough to hear if there aren't any other competing noises being made.

 

k so i used the s4 wires for the CAS and the s4 CAS and i can hear them!!! anyways i need to obviously now set the timing, is there a good link i can read for timing or just a good explanation?

 

k so i lined the needle up with the yellow mark, and the bottom dot on the CAS with the little buldge mark on the CAS and got it put in.

So i can hear my primaries clicking, i have fuel that sprays out the return if i undo it, and spark coming from all 4 wires. still doesn't even want to attempt to start

 

k so now none of the injectors or clicking, if i were to run a injector off the wrong injector wire, like out of firing order would it hurt the injector? or does this sound like a wiring problem?

 

Did you say you used an S5 CAS. If so then I believe there is a difference between the S4 and S5 CAS as the S5 has a ground shield incorporated in the CAS wiring to the ECU while the S4 does not.

 

I tried s4 and s5 CAS and I'm using the original s4 wiring to the original plug under the MC and main relay and I have the 4 wires from the dash harness wired into the 3 wires on the s5 #3 plug

 

Bump

 

But how are you taking into account the ground wire necessary for the S5 CAS? Do you have the Red wire and Green CAS wires spliced together that connect to pin 3H of the ECU?

 

Yea the wires are spliced together, red blue to s5 3h r, green to s5 3G w, white to s5 3e L. Now there is a ground wire wrapped around the outside of the s4 wiring I am using does that need to be connected to something? And looking at the CAS they both seem to be exactly the same.

 

The ground shield should be grounded.

Red wire from S5 CAS is connected to the Blue wire of the S4 Emission harness.
Green wire from S5 CAS is connected to the White wire of the S4 Emission harness.
Both of the wires above, S4 Blue and S4 White are spliced together and go to pin 3H.

White wire from S5 CAS is connected to the Green wire of the S4 Emission harness and this goes to pin 3G.

Blue wire from S5 CAS is connected to the Red wire of the S4 Emission harness and this wire runs to pin 3E.

 

The SHIELD wire at the CAS plug should not be grounded there. IT is already grounded on the other end of the SHIELD.

Easy to check if is grounded. Just meter on ohms and one lead to a known gnd point and the other to the shield at the CAS plug. Should show way less than one ohm.

That said, even if you grounded it at both ends or no end the CAS should work just fine. Not recommended but it should still work. It's just a SHIELD to prevent emi. Right? right.

Got spark, got fuel, timing is in the ball park.......................bad compression or bad apex seals causing that lack of compression........................or pull start the thing if you KNOW you have fuel and spark. Not my way of doing things but will work if spark, fuel and timing are right.

 

I think it wasn't grounded at the ECU end, but may be wrong. In any event, I remember recently a poster had an S5 w/o the shielding being grounded at the ECU end of the harness and his engine had no spark , but after the shield was grounded at that one end things worked as normal.

 

When you say wire from CAS to emissions harness do you mean the first clip two inches from the CAS or the plug down right next to The steering column?

 

because there is a ground wire around the the section of the 4 wires that can be removed from between the CAS and the actual car harness and that ground wire is shared with another plug down off of actual harness, so I know what way that section of wires goes since they share the same clip ends and can be plugged in either way.

 

and is this right or wrong?

"Start with the S4 plug thats in your car find the 4 wires for the crank position sensor and put the red and blue wire together and connect it to them 3H pin green to the 3G pin white to 3E pin on the S5 plug "

 

At the CAS itself. You would have the next connector that's in line to match wires from one harness to the other. So if you have a plug that has a Green wire, a Blue wire, a White wire and a Red wire then they match up color wise at this second plug. And on the S4 harness's involved the CAS plugs into the Engine harness first and then that plugs into the Front harness. So when I said "Emission harness" I meant to actually say Engine harness (the S5 wiring only uses the Emission harness).

 

So I want them to match up color wise at the first plug right at the CAS and also match up color wise down where it meets the harness, and then wire it up like you said into the s5 harness?

 

The Red wire from the S5 CAS does not match up w/the Red wire of the S4Engine harness. It was already pointed out how you should wire it. Furthermore, as an example, the Ne signal on an S5 ECU has a Blue wire connected to it and only one wire and again, this wire is the color Blue. On an S4 ECU there are two Ne signals (not one as there is on an S5), one w/a Red wire and the other w/a White wire. Now if the S4 uses a Red wire and a White wire for the Ne signal but the S5 uses only the Blue wire wire then you cannot connect like color wires because you are mixing signals. Okay? So you have to keep Ne to Ne and G signals (two of them) to G signals.

Red wire from S5 CAS is connected to the Blue wire of the S4 Engine harness.
Green wire from S5 CAS is connected to the White wire of the S4 Engine harness.
Both of the wires above, S4 Blue and S4 White are spliced together and go to pin 3H.

White wire from S5 CAS is connected to the Green wire of the S4 Engine harness and this goes to pin 3G.

Blue wire from S5 CAS is connected to the Red wire of the S4 Engine harness and this wire runs to pin 3E.

Another thing you might have overlooked is if fuel flows w/key to start. You already verified that fuel flows w/key to on but not key to start. At the Circuit Opening Relay the wire in the top row far left should have voltage w/key to start. If it does not then it needs to be spliced into the wire that goes to pin 1C.

 

Sorry to interrupt... But this is all insane. All of these problems could have been avoided had you swapped over the S4 throttle body with TPS, front cover with oil metering pump, N/A wiring harness, S4 TII fuel injectors, N332 or N333 ECU, N318 AFM, N318 boost sensor, water pump and water pump housing, and clutch fan.

This is more wrenching than wiring. Which is what you're better at. You said it yourself...