I have a S5 Na with a S4 short block. All S5 intake system and electronics.
I did not realize that the 5th and 6th port actuators rotate the opposite direction compared to S4. When I was assembling the S5 lower intake manifold LIM to the block I orientated the sleeves as they where with my S4 intake. Example: the rear sleeve was orientated like \ assuming clockwise rotation. So I am pretty sure my sleeves are not opening correctly, they are rotating, but from closed to closed.
Is there a way to position the sleeves without removing the entire intake system? such as unbolting the actuators and removing the connecting shaft? Is it possible to look through this passage to check orientation?

 

From my searching I am not clear on something.
Can you run a S5 LIM on a S4 block? in an S5 car

 

Sure, you can use an S5 NA LIM on an S4 NA block, but the port air paths on the irons will be blocked & you will never pass smog (if that matters in your area).

http://homepage.mac.com/carldavis/intake/mod.html

As for the actuators, the S4 ones are pull-type and the S5s are push-type. Are you sure they push/pull on the same side of the rod arms? In other words, when looking at the rear actuator, if one pulls from the outside & the other pushes from the inside, they'll both rotate counter-clockwise. I don't remember off-hand, but I do have an S4 NA engine and S5 NA LIM at home that I could check.

Otherwise, there isn't any way to check the sleeve orientation without removing the LIM.

 

Thank you rotaryrocket, i have been reading your threads and was hoping you would reply
Here is what I currently have. (go full screen, you might have to go to youtube)
http://youtu.be/SaK7YZyJQaQ?hd=1
I have looked through the rx7 manual and the pictures shows similar setup. I am not the original owner of this intake and not sure if it has been messed with.
Are they rotating correctly? or backwards
I am assuming that S4 sleeves and S5 sleeves are the same?

I tried to remove the capture plate that holds the rod into the LIM, but there is a small philips head screw that will not budge. I was thinking that i could manually orient the sleeves too be open and test drive the car to see if it helps, but there are limit tabs on the securing plate that wont allow me to do so. I could however bend them out of the way and temporarily wire the rods the the position I assumed they would rotate too. What are your thoughts on this?

I guess the only real solution is to take off the LIM, I just to be certain that my current setup is correct if the sleeves were put in , I guess 180deg from were they are now.
I just ordered new gaskets from mazdatrix in preparation to pull off the LIM.

Can you take pictures of S4 vs S5 actuators and which was they rotate?

 

As I guessed, the rod arms are on the opposite sides. So the rear actuator on the S4 pulls counter-clockwise and the S5 pushes counter-clockwise. The fronts are opposite and rotate clockwise. The rod end that grabs the sleeve will turn so the slot is vertical when pressure is applied to the actuator. So if the sleeves were not moved from their original orientation, the S5 actuators will turn them properly.

S4



S5



S5 rod end

 

Extremely helpful pictures, thank you.
Can you try to take off the capture plate on the s5. The 10mm bolt and phillips head screw. If the plate can come off, can the rod come out? If so then I could rotate my sleeves and reset the rod 180 deg off. Also if the rod is pulled out can you look at the back side of the sleeves.

 

The phillips head screws are seized and won't come out without an impact driver, but it appears that the rods would slide out if the cover plate were removed. Those bolts should both be hex head, but for some stupid reason they're not.

If you do get them off, you'll have a heck of a time trying to see the port opening in the sleeves. I doubt you'll be able to. It's just too far down, and you can't view it at an angle. I don't have an S5 engine to look at for you. It's just an LIM.

My suggestion would be to remove the actuators and wire the arms in the "open" position. Drive the car to see if it had a noticeable effect. Idle may change a little, and it should be gutless until around 3500 RPM. If you see a change, the sleeves are fine.

 

Do I need to grind down the block where the center intake lies? I see that when you run the S4 LIM and s5 upper you need to grind down some of block for clearance. But will all S5 parts do i need to? When I put it together it didn't seems like there was any clearance issues.

Also from your experience what is the best way to disassemble the intake system. I usually separate at the center and LIM.
Planning to take it all apart tomorrow and will update.

 

Yes, you have to grind down the rear iron for the S5 UIM to clear. If you don't, it will not seat properly, and you'll get a giant vacuum leak between the LIM/UIM. LIM height is the same (S4 or S5), so it'll be an issue regardless.

I would separate the LIM/UIM for removal, but the plenum/TB may have to come off as one piece to get the long UIM/LIM bolt out.

 

odd that i have been able to run the car with no vac leaks with out grinding the block...

 

Okay i am completely wrong. I have a huge gap from the LIM to UIM. i have pictures and will update when i am done. I cant believe the motor even ran, or idle. crazy.
Well hopefully the sleeves are correct and this gap is my problem. I have a small camera on a bendy stick to look at them.

 

Okay 5th and 6th port are correctly installed. So i guess my performance loss is from the intake gap.
Question though on the LIM, How important is it to block off the port air passage? I see this step on the Modification page at http://homepage.mac.com/carldavis/intake/mod.html

 

If you have an ACV and cat hooked up, that port would direct exhaust gases to the block/LIM gasket. I guess it could eventually eat away at it. Plugging the hole or removing the ACV would eliminate this.

 

Okay its all back together after debugging many things and I have a setup that works.
VDI and 6PI are now to functioning and the performance is dramatic, and the sound of the intake is awesome!
However the pressure line from the air pump that feeds the solenoids for the VDI and 6PI losses pressure above 2k. the solenoid relief valve is de-energizing at 2k under load / driving. To test I have hooked a 9v battery to the solenoid relief valve to keep it energized, keeping pressure in the lines for the VDI and 6PI solenoids.
Why is the solenoid relief valve de-energizing at 2k?
How does the air pump supply pressure to the VDI and 6PI solenoids?
Is something not plumped correctly?
Thanks

 

It should retain enough pressure under load, but you can do what I did when I had S5 manifolds on an S4 block. Put a restrictor plug in the relief tubing. Search for my thread on RPM switch activation of 6PI & VDI for a picture. It was just a plastic piece with a hole drilled in it.

 

here is what I have now
http://youtu.be/zggZi6kJV3s
http://youtu.be/Qzos9RHTQeQ

But now my car really stinks at idle, like it is running really rich. This started after I fixed the LIM to MIM gap. Any ideas why? My afr reads 14.3 at idle, and that's after I lean it out. or else it would be near 12