S5 N/A to TII Swap
07-18-09, 02:49 PM
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S5 N/A to TII Swap
If I swapped a S5 TII engine into me 89 N/A can I keep the N/A harness? If I did what would I need to do to keep make the N/A harness work with the TII engine?
07-18-09, 03:10 PM
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im not sure about s5's but on s4s all you have to do is swap for a TII afm and MAP sensor, also extend the tps wires. thats it. (unless you wanna run the knock box and emmisions stuff etc). i have no emmisions, no BAC, no A/C no cold start etc on my s4 and no knock box, the only modifications i had to do were those listed above. i cant imagine that the s5 is much different.
07-18-09, 03:33 PM
#4
im pretty sure you can use the N/A harness, i heard its possible, you most likley have to modify the wiring a little bit, just like you can use the N/A ECU and get it chipped with an RTEK when you get more power out of it, N/A ECU can only handle the stock boost levels (like 5lbs or something)
07-18-09, 06:58 PM
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You can use the N/A harness, it pretty much means you have to eliminate the vacuum rack, and also be mindful of the fuel injector clip positions, ie keep the primaries together and the 2ndaries together... otherwise swap the ECU, Pressure sensor, AFM, and fuel pump and you are good to go.
07-18-09, 07:46 PM
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how is it not a MAP sens?? it measures the pressure/vac in the intake mani. hence MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor.
anyways, r/co s/dewayz, not trying tobe a dick but NA and TII ECU from the same series are plug and ply (so all s4 ECUs are compatible with other S4s minus autos and s5s are the same) so why would you keep the n/a ECU and run ANY boost unsafely when you could pick up a TII ECU of your same series for less than $100 (sometimes less than$50) and do it right? IMO, running any bost on an NA ecu is dangerous as it wasnt designed to see/handle positive pressures, only vac. this can result in severe engine damge (ask how i kno).
anyways, r/co s/dewayz, not trying tobe a dick but NA and TII ECU from the same series are plug and ply (so all s4 ECUs are compatible with other S4s minus autos and s5s are the same) so why would you keep the n/a ECU and run ANY boost unsafely when you could pick up a TII ECU of your same series for less than $100 (sometimes less than$50) and do it right? IMO, running any bost on an NA ecu is dangerous as it wasnt designed to see/handle positive pressures, only vac. this can result in severe engine damge (ask how i kno).
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07-19-09, 11:32 AM
#10
s5 is also has more electronics. Also I run the n/a ecu with boost and it's damn fine. The high is ******* phenomenal with just tuning the fuel. But once I get a ignition tuning program or a ems system I'll be happy.
You have to run the n/a ecu when you do a tii swap in the n/a. Also touch s4 is out everywhere. No one wants to part out there s5 tii... no body... But s4 tii are out all day everyday.
He doesn't have to worry about mixing the secondary's and primary's since it's in it's own little loom. But you do need to know which one is the front or rear plug.
You don't have to extend the tps, the only wires you have to extend doing running a tii engine is 1 plug. Not the ait either.
Who ever said the stock n/a ecu can handle 5 psi is an idiot. I ran 8 psi on my n/a ecu and ran fine. I am positive I can run 10 psi on my n/a ecu and be fine. Once again, I cannot stress this enough. Get fuel mods, and watch your damn afr. The n/a ignition timing isn't that bad at all as people think.
Oh and touch the only option s5 users have is the n370 ecu or n374 ecu (n374 needs to be chipped to work) So $200 easily for j spec ecu which cannot be chipped by rtek.
You have to run the n/a ecu when you do a tii swap in the n/a. Also touch s4 is out everywhere. No one wants to part out there s5 tii... no body... But s4 tii are out all day everyday.
He doesn't have to worry about mixing the secondary's and primary's since it's in it's own little loom. But you do need to know which one is the front or rear plug.
You don't have to extend the tps, the only wires you have to extend doing running a tii engine is 1 plug. Not the ait either.
Who ever said the stock n/a ecu can handle 5 psi is an idiot. I ran 8 psi on my n/a ecu and ran fine. I am positive I can run 10 psi on my n/a ecu and be fine. Once again, I cannot stress this enough. Get fuel mods, and watch your damn afr. The n/a ignition timing isn't that bad at all as people think.
Oh and touch the only option s5 users have is the n370 ecu or n374 ecu (n374 needs to be chipped to work) So $200 easily for j spec ecu which cannot be chipped by rtek.
07-19-09, 01:31 PM
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i kno, i kno, thats why i said that everything i was talking about was pertaining to an s4. i have never owned an s5, i was just trying to give the guy a general idea
07-19-09, 01:33 PM
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and i tell you what, s4s must be able to handle alot more than s4s than cuz i popped my motor @8~9 psi running an NA ECU with PLENTY of fuel (hitting high 10 AFRs under boost). even if it is a 200 ECU, its worth it to me.
07-19-09, 01:49 PM
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What is the one plug you said you have to extend?
Exactly what fuel mods will I need, just a pump?
I will need a piggyback for the ecu won't I unless I get it chipped?
Exactly what fuel mods will I need, just a pump?
I will need a piggyback for the ecu won't I unless I get it chipped?
07-19-09, 03:33 PM
#14
I don't remember which plug, but you will see when you try to connect everything.
Fuel mods are fuel pump and injectors and of course piggy back. But if you can find a n370 it will make your life a lot easier if you don't know how to tune. Also you want a wideband set up.
Touch - really? I hit 8-9 psi and I even leaned out my mixture to 13.5 afr. I wasn't having any detonation issues. But I also had 550/680cc from the get go. But this time I am going to run in the 12's, I cannot venture into the 13's because I will get to happy with it.
S4 should be better since the lower compression... I don't recommend hitting 10psi+ without a tuning program. This exclude piggyback, they don't do **** for ignition. But all in all, if you have the money buy a N370. Or if you have confidence in your tuning skills then go ahead.
I had the afr in the 13.6 and pulled like a bat out of hell. I also went to 8,000rpm also and was doing fine. I can tell you one thing though, you hit 14.7 once under wot you bet your *** you will take a piece out of you apex seal. Even then that, I didn't blow the engine. It just had a slight miss at idle, and still pulled like a bat out of hell. (after 3800rpm)
Even if you get the ecu chipped, it's still recommended to have a piggy back. Chips aren't always the best, unless you tune for awhile get it how you want to.
Fuel mods are fuel pump and injectors and of course piggy back. But if you can find a n370 it will make your life a lot easier if you don't know how to tune. Also you want a wideband set up.
Touch - really? I hit 8-9 psi and I even leaned out my mixture to 13.5 afr. I wasn't having any detonation issues. But I also had 550/680cc from the get go. But this time I am going to run in the 12's, I cannot venture into the 13's because I will get to happy with it.
S4 should be better since the lower compression... I don't recommend hitting 10psi+ without a tuning program. This exclude piggyback, they don't do **** for ignition. But all in all, if you have the money buy a N370. Or if you have confidence in your tuning skills then go ahead.
I had the afr in the 13.6 and pulled like a bat out of hell. I also went to 8,000rpm also and was doing fine. I can tell you one thing though, you hit 14.7 once under wot you bet your *** you will take a piece out of you apex seal. Even then that, I didn't blow the engine. It just had a slight miss at idle, and still pulled like a bat out of hell. (after 3800rpm)
Even if you get the ecu chipped, it's still recommended to have a piggy back. Chips aren't always the best, unless you tune for awhile get it how you want to.
07-19-09, 05:34 PM
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2slowfor stock. yep, then again, now that i think of it, it was on NA rotors (higher compression).
batmanfc, i think he meant upgrade from your factory NA injectors to TII injectors.
batmanfc, i think he meant upgrade from your factory NA injectors to TII injectors.
07-21-09, 12:36 AM
#21
i gotta laugh at it when people say its simple to do a swap, most people don't realize half the **** doesn't work when they swap in a T2 to a n/a chassis. you have to re-pin the dash harness, wire in a variable resistor for the fuel pump, wire in a new alternator plug and depending if you want the stock boost guage for aesthetics you have to run new wires for that also. i spent several days going over a swap into a 4 lug and i know what i'm doing, most people don't worry about the pig *** rich running condition left by the 2 step fuel pump resistor missing.
07-23-09, 10:01 PM
#25