Testing is scattered because I'm working on two different cars in two different locations. So I work on what I can with what tools are at each location as I move my tools back and forth.

I'm looking for a little feedback on the fuel pressure I measured. Clokker referenced 90psi at a specific location and Haynes listed 64-85.3 with no specs on where to take the reading. I have not looked at FSM yet.

To see if the spark plugs were firing we (helper and myself) simply put a timing light inline with each spark plug and saw that the light was flashing.

 

if it holds almost 60psi, i think thats more than enough to start it.

 

Yeah it holds at 60-65psi

 

Just tried spraying carb cleaner in the throttlebody and no change....so that narrows it down to ignition. I need to read up on ignition as I've never tinkered with ignition. Any pointers would be great.

 

or compression...but what are te chances of both housings.
checked your timing?
pull the plugs and have a gander at them as well. easy enough to do

 

Best way I have found to test for spark, and for fuel (well injector signal) is using a Noid like set and just pulling the CAS and spinning by hand.... the noid like in the injector connection should flash. and if your using a spark tester it should spark.

Also did you T into the fuel like or did you just disconnect it and then connect the fuel pressure gauge up to the line?

if you just disconnected the line and connected the fuel pressure gauge, the fuel pressure regulator could be stuck open and allowing the fuel to just go right back to the tank... aka making no fuel pressure in the rails.

 

Oh also if you do pull the CAS out be sure you know how to restab it!

 

Here in the diagram, had an issue with my buddies fuel pump, wouldnt run with the key in the on position... with a little poking and proding found out the "Circuit Opening Relay" went bad which controls the fuel pump...

this relay is right underneath the driver side dash, near the steering column. jumper it

 

NM the timing comment. derp.

but have a look at the plugs though. if they're fouled, the timing light will still flash, but will not ignite the mixture

 

I just bought a 91 vert in Evansville that is doing the same thing, or at least it sounds like it is.
I found the thermosensor on the back of the water pump was unplugged and finally got it to start again but it won't run.... No idea what's going on.

I'd check to make sure the thermosensor is plugged in because it will cause it to not be able to start cold. If it has been unplugged before the clip breaks and it can easily be knocked off.

 

I haven't touched the car in a little while, but I doubt it's the thermosensor. I've left those unplugged and started the engine. The engine runs like crap but it tries to turn over. This problem the car is making no attempt to turn over.

 

Thing is the fuel pump is seeing 12v when jumpered and seeing post fuel filter pressure. I tried spraying some carb cleaner directly in the TB while the engine was being cranked....no attempt to turn over.

I haven't touched the car in a little while, but i"ll check out the relay. It can't hurt.

 

Hm, alright. If you have spark and fuel pressure but the car is still not starting do you know for sure the injectors are firing?

You might remove the spark plug wires and crank the engine a few times to flood it. This way you'll at least know for sure it is getting fuel because the plugs will be soaked.

Also,you might want to check the resistances on the coil packs just to make sure that they are good. You said you've got spark but maybe it is weak?

Another thing you can try is to prop open the MAF/AFM door to force more fuel in to the engine. Just a few ideas. It won't run well, but at least if it tries to start it narrows down the problem some.

 

lol this is dumb, just check the basics. If you tested and had 60 psi of pressure up front stop worrying about fuel pump voltages and stuff. get a 194 bulb to use as a noid light on the primary injectors, if it blinks while cranking then move to ignition.
Dont use a timing light, if you dont have a real spark tester pull a plug wire and put it close to ground and see if you actually see spark happening. It is probably just realy flooded from an ignition problem and now doesnt have enough compression to fire.

 

I checked voltage before I checked pressure. I haven't had time to work on it for a little while now. I don't think it's flooded as it makes absolutely zero attempt to turn over and you can crank on it forever and never smell gas. But I'll certainly pull the EGI fuse and check before I start taking the intake off to test other things.

 

Is the only way you get fuel pressure by jumpering the pump? When you say it doesn't turn over do you mean the starter doesn't engage or it just doesn't "hit"?

 

It's been a little while since I worked on the car. But as I remember it, I took the pressure tester off the fuel line and before I connected it to the nest I had my father crank on the engine and it made a healthy spew of fuel. They are out of town till next week so I don't have a helper, but I'll retest that because in all honesty I could have simply jumpered the fuel pump and told him to turn the key.

The starter and engine simply turns endlessly without the engine ever making an attempt to turn over. It never even makes a sputter like it's trying to turn over. I don't know much about how a starter operates, but is it possible the starter is dead.... motor is spinning but the gear is not engaging?

 

if the front pulley rolls over while the starter is turning then you are OK.The starter is working!

 

HAHA, guess that would be true...huh? Chalk that up to one dumb question asked today

 

People where getting confused.

Turns over = starter engages and the engine spins

Engine starts = starter engages, engine spins, engine starts running

I don't mean to be "that guy" but it was confusing.

 

once again how did you check fuel pressure.... if you checked it like the bottom setup here, then the test was no good, that does not test what pressures the actual injectors see.

the top setup is how it should be done, for reason it tests the fuel pressure regulator (which can stick open causing low fuel pressure in the rail)

Also was the CAS moved for any reason? taken out? if so restab it again, one tooth off will cause this as well

 

CAS being off will really cause problems. Injectors being reversed will case problems. Stuck seals will cause problems. To a lesser extent the TPS,spark plugs/wire order, and thermo sensor will cause problems. Also maybe a signal wire for the AFM/TPS/IATS etc is poor. Brown and white wire? You would see a code in your ECU.

Remember the basics... Fuel, Spark, and compression.

 

I cranked the engine some today and pulled the plugs and they had fuel on them. The plugs look pretty normal so I did a compression test and it showed zero compression on any face of either rotor. I'm very suspicious of the compression test or simply in denial. I pulled all the plugs and tested on the leading. Obviously the engine can't be tested warmed up. I had my father crank the engine with all the plugs out and no compression tester and it gets puffs that seem to be 3 on each rotor, but with all the plugs out it's hard to differentiate them. They seem like damn strong puffs, as strong as any I've heard/felt from a running engine.

I know my father hasn't romped on the engine and blown out apex seals. He is 70+ and simply doesn't car to drive like a fool anymore. I guess it could be stuck seals and I've never experienced it before. However his car has always been in tip top shape, it only has bout 70k miles on it and it had been driving fine and starting up just the day before it wouldn't turn over.

 

tow rope and a truck.

 

well, that sucks. I know it's not the best news, but at least it gives you a new focal point ... and like it or not, that's progress. I usually don't subscribe to pull (or push) starting, but even I have to admit it works and it might be quicker than trying to "coax" compression out of the engine. so I agree with Karack (RotaryEvolution).