cbro

iTrader: (3)

hey rotor heads i am curious is anyone on here know of any high hp n/a builds right now im sitting on my s5 n/a mild streetported stage 2 clutch s4 t2 tranny driveshaft pumpkin and axels, simple filter ac and power steering gone full set coilovers and jic rear strut bar im looking to maximize the potential on the car some future plans of mine are to get me a haltech gilmer pulleys battery relocation kit, fuel pump and custom duckbill also note this motor is baby bottom fresh 20 k fresh. one other questionable mod, can i upgrade the coilpacks will i see performance increase and whats this whole deal about air pump delete mods is their really any significant performance increase on an n/a

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

Wut? Your post is hard to comprehend. Before buying a anything I'd invest in myself and take some English and grammar courses if I was you. They will pay you back for the rest of your life.

About the most you can expect with a tuned ECU is under 200HP without an expensive custom intake and exhaust. There is no such thing as a high hp N/A. Searching the forum would show you that.

If you want power, Turbocharge your car. There's no other way and any experienced FC owner will tell you the same thing.

cbro

iTrader: (3)

You quote "if i was you","They will pay you back for the rest of your life" maybe you might some english classes because i sure do not understand half of what you wrote. cmon man be realistic, im not gonna sit here and type out every comma and periods. now back to the whole reason of this post. yes i do have an exhaust actually nearly almost the same build as the mazdatrix n/a convertible dynoed at 249 to the wheels. so don't judge a book by what everybody tells you, do it and learn from it right now i'm at 180 to the wheels on the stock ecu. so now that ive proved you wrong 2 times you think you can be a little more respectful to someone you've never met nor know anything about. id really appreciate answers no need for bs.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

If you aren't going to take the time to use proper punctuation and grammar then why should anyone take the time to try to understand what you are typing?

Welcome to the internet...we use words here. Use them well or look like an idiot, up to you.

Trying to make power without a turbo or radical ports is like pissing in the wind.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

The ports that will give you the most power are a Bridgeport or a peripheral port, a full bridge and peripheral port aren't very street friendly, that's why most people get a streetport.

Even with a full bridge or peripheral port you'll be spending as much to get it done and tuned as it would cost for a t2.

At this point your best option for more power is to run a Turbo with a stand alone.

You will get big power with little boost on a.turboed 6 port NA.



Rotary > Pistons

JDriftM

iTrader: (9)

Ingredients:

4 port turbo irons
Big street port, Bridgeport, or peripheral port
Well tuned header and exhaust
Haltech, Microtech, AEM, etc.
500-1000 cc injectors
Good N/a tuner
AEM coil packs
Individual throttle bodies or slide throttle body setup
Ultra light wheels
Light chassis (convertibles are in no way light, even stripped out, check gross vehicle weigh in the FAQ section)
Butt loads of time to tune

Going NA is no where near as instant gratification as turbo'ing. Doing all of this with a peripheral port MIGHT get you to 300 hp with the right tuner, but it won't be streetable. Going streetport will make it streetable but not make nearly the power. Best way to get instant gratification in the NA world, put your big boy pants on and add another rotor to the mix. If you haven't heard of Defined Autosports yet and you're into NA, you probably haven't done enough research.

Hope this gives you some basis.

And I took the time to put in every comma, period, and proper punctuation mark in this post, it only took me a couple minutes to do so.....and it was on an iPad.

Education= friend.


-Tim

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

even with a standalone your ceiling will be about 200whp with the n/a engine.

the ONLY way to go further is with radical internal engine porting and tuned exhaust system along with a good tune.

the drawback is the n/a needs to wind up higher to make more power, the turbo transmission will fight you with the extreme revs as will the engine balancing even with the lighter s5 rotating assembly. to make any real power you would need a peripheral or semi peripheral port to break close to or above the 300 numbers, along with lightweight seals, rotor/flywheel lightening and balancing along with a scatter shield to push the rev limit closer to 11k.

to take real advantage of all that you would need an air shift transmission like a liberty unit, otherwise you'll just be beating the hell out of the turbo transmission syncros. even a single improper shift will either wear out the syncros quickly or shatter them and be rewarded with indefinite grinds during shifts.

what this means is $$$, which is also why most people go with a turbo swap because in the long run it is cheaper unless you own a machine shop.

some shortcuts can be done such as rotor clearancing to prevent them from scuffing irons due to imbalances but the rotor housings will chatter with any metallic apex seal at those revs, so the housings will not last more than a few seasons unless you suck up and buy carbon or ceramic seals(carbon seals sacrifice themselves for rotor housing longevity where ceramics have no compromise and will last nearly indefinitely if the engine is tuned properly).

you could just opt to try and fit a renesis engine into the bay but you would have to figure out a way of operating the port actuation systems otherwise it will not be a bolt in rated ~200whp without any modification to the engine. the renny Aisin transmission is much more forgiving with the extreme revs also and you could probably pick up a package deal on an import engine/tranny for about $1.5k. the renesis does require much more attention and is less forgiving than any previous rotary engine however, including even the REW which was turbo and made more power.

additionally with n/a engines comes noise. to make power you must sacrifice noise comfort levels.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i agree, the renesis seems like a good option, as you can just touch 200rwhp, and have a muffler. the only real downside is that there isn't anymore growth potential in a renesis, and the FC isn't much lighter than an Rx8... my 04 base was 2950lbs with a full tank, my 89 vert is 3000lbs....


this is also true, my friend has a turbo driveline behind a P port, and not only does the turbo trans take 80hp to spin, but the engine eats them for breakfast...

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

Still hard to read, I'd reccomend getting your head out of your ***. It's hard to listen or read with it up there.

As far as you proving me wrong twice, I think you can see after other people's posts that I wasn't. We can leave things at that, I don't need to post in this troll thread anymore.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i also wouldn't use the 248whp dyno as your goal, because there is no way they managed that on a stock ported engine. in fact they either did extensive modifications to the engine/intake/exhaust or their dyno is broken. of course any shop is going to try and puff up figures as much as they can, the rest of us who build these cars daily know what they are capable of without spending godly amounts of time and creating an unstreetable car.

if you truly managed 180 at the wheels with the tweaks you did, consider yourself lucky to have gotten that far. that is not calling you a liar either, some dynos simply are not set up properly and do not read accurately. you can have a dyno operator change a few peramaters and make a 100whp car read 1000whp if you wanted to, some techs simply don't plug in the correction factors properly.

most people don't even make it to 180whp in an n/a configuration without a little bit of luck involved.

nepopolus

250whp for 3 times the cost of a turbo engine...a turbo engine can make close to the same power with just an exhaust. As stated above me if you want to take advantage of your low mile engine turbocharging a 6 port is well documented on this site and is always a option, and if you snipe the parts section it can be pretty cheap as well.

Dak

Not sure what convertible he is talking about but my guess is it is the one they built into an E-prod car. That car I believe was running a weber carb setup and had some major porting going on. I think they were spinning somewhere around 9k or more rpms on that engine too. This too was a race engine and being streetable wasn't part of the criteria. All of this just re-enforces what has already been said I believe.