alex91n/a

iTrader: (2)

well a little background info will help,

i bought an rtek 2.1 awhile ago for my build, im at the point where everything is done except the ecu. i hook up my rtek ecu and my palm wont connect, but it will connect to my house computer so i know its not my cable or palm.

i email pocketlogger at their help desk and they tell me to build an LED tester for my car and they want me to tell them what the LED's do. i emailed them back describing i have a 91 (s5) and that the writeup on the LED tester said only 86-88, none the less i built the tester anyways and hooked it up.

the problem i am having is the diagnostic connector on my 91 s5 car only has 3 wires running to the diagnostic connector, ( i also have an s4 and its diagnostic connector has 4 wires, and the LED tester works on my s4 car). so the LED lights did nothing at all on my 91 car!!

I also checked my 91 car the way you are supposed to, and my check engine light doesnt flash or stay illuminated, so to me it seems like there may be something wrong with my ecu.

am i testing my ecu right? i really dont know because pocketlogger only told me how to test a s4 car despite my rtek being for an s5 car. and they take so long to email back, i waited 5 days for them to tell me how to test an s4 car :/ and 4 days later they still havent responded to me wheni told them the LED thing didnt work, any help would be very appreciated.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The diagnostic checker for the S4 has 4 wires but 2 of them are tied together such that it only uses 3 pins from the diagnostic plug. And the diagnostic code checker plug on the S5 is the one by the leading coil. Has a B/W wire and two Yellow coded wires.

http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/error%20codes.html

alex91n/a

iTrader: (2)

Ok So the LED tester should Work fine for s4 and s5..if that's the case when I check my rtek ecu the LEDs don't light up at all.. Does that mean my ecu is toast

satch

iTrader: (1)

You might have to ground the Orange wire in the single wired check connector near the leading coil to start the process of pulling codes. The code checker that has two wires tied together on one pin should go to the B/W wire. Is this how you tried it?

alex91n/a

iTrader: (2)

Yes the 2 wires that join to one male connector are pluged into the black and white wire. I didn't ground that single green connector AND try the LED test.

But I did ground that single pin and try to check codes the s5 morse code way with the check engine light, but the check engine light never illuminates when I turn my key.. All my other idiot lights do illuminate though.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure the ECU is powered properly? The Brown/White wire at the Pressure Sensor should have close to 5 volts w/key to on. If it does then the ECU is powered up. If it doesn't then you know why the CEL isn't working.

alex91n/a

iTrader: (2)

Ok I will check the brown white wire on the preasure sensor. I'm pretty sure my ecu is hooked up right all 3 of the harness' are plugged in firmly and pretty sure I'm not missing any grounds. I will check that sensor tommorrow

alex91n/a

iTrader: (2)

Ok so I checked the preasure sensor voltage with the key to on, multimeter is set to 20v and my read on the brown wire white stripe is 0.02v so that can't be good, any other suggestions??

satch

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure the EGI fuse is good? If it were then the B/Y wires found at the coils would have battery voltage w/key to on. Just checking the B/Y wire at the leading coil would be sufficient enough.

alex91n/a

iTrader: (2)

Wow thanks for all the help satch, my fuse was bad and now my rtek works.

JJohnston

Id pull apart the idiot cluster, and check if the bulb is good