S5 AWS removal, searched...
#1
S5 AWS removal, searched...
I want to remove my AWS system on my car and I haven't been able to find it on my car. I've looked in my Haynes and in the FSM but the diagrams don't make sense to me. If anyone could post a picture ot exactly where it is on an S5, it would be appreciated. Also, once I find the valve, what else needs to be done to properly remove the system?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
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Mazdatrix has a good writeup on it here that may be helpful:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/rrsteer.htm
I have put in the eliminators and I love the predictablity of the handling at the limit now.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/rrsteer.htm
I have put in the eliminators and I love the predictablity of the handling at the limit now.
#5
Originally Posted by ilike2eatricers
Uhhh ignore those guys.
The original poster is asking about the accelerated warmup system if I'm not mistaken and not all wheel steering.
The original poster is asking about the accelerated warmup system if I'm not mistaken and not all wheel steering.
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#8
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Don't remove the AWS, fix it. You take out the girlfriend next to you when she aint working? No , you fix her! Solve the problem, its there for a reason!
PEACE THE DOG
PEACE THE DOG
#9
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How high are the rpms the ten minutes later, that you mention????? Not close to 3000 rpm, right? Closer to 1200-1300 rpm?
If it's closer to the 1200-1300 rpm, then it isn't AWS, it's most likely a blocked water thermo wax (actually the water passage in the throttle body that heats the water thermo wax) . Go to this site http://wombat.sevarg.net/RX7/RX-7_Training_Manuals/ and download the Fuel and Emission section and read how it works. It's a small download. Graphics. Or look in the FSM that is free and online, in the Fuel section where it shows the water thermowax and how it works.
If it's closer to the 1200-1300 rpm, then it isn't AWS, it's most likely a blocked water thermo wax (actually the water passage in the throttle body that heats the water thermo wax) . Go to this site http://wombat.sevarg.net/RX7/RX-7_Training_Manuals/ and download the Fuel and Emission section and read how it works. It's a small download. Graphics. Or look in the FSM that is free and online, in the Fuel section where it shows the water thermowax and how it works.
#10
Originally Posted by HAILERS
How high are the rpms the ten minutes later, that you mention????? Not close to 3000 rpm, right? Closer to 1200-1300 rpm?
If it's closer to the 1200-1300 rpm, then it isn't AWS, it's most likely a blocked water thermo wax (actually the water passage in the throttle body that heats the water thermo wax) . Go to this site http://wombat.sevarg.net/RX7/RX-7_Training_Manuals/ and download the Fuel and Emission section and read how it works. It's a small download. Graphics. Or look in the FSM that is free and online, in the Fuel section where it shows the water thermowax and how it works.
If it's closer to the 1200-1300 rpm, then it isn't AWS, it's most likely a blocked water thermo wax (actually the water passage in the throttle body that heats the water thermo wax) . Go to this site http://wombat.sevarg.net/RX7/RX-7_Training_Manuals/ and download the Fuel and Emission section and read how it works. It's a small download. Graphics. Or look in the FSM that is free and online, in the Fuel section where it shows the water thermowax and how it works.
#11
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Originally Posted by Mombodogs
Don't remove the AWS, fix it. You take out the girlfriend next to you when she aint working? No , you fix her! Solve the problem, its there for a reason!
PEACE THE DOG
PEACE THE DOG
Last edited by snowball; 12-23-05 at 11:34 AM.
#12
Originally Posted by snowball
No, the Acel is totaly useless, mazda even said so themselfs IIRC.(or maybe that was something else) its deadly cold here and the FC fires up first time every time.
#13
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
Originally Posted by snowball
No, the Acel is totaly useless, mazda even said so themselfs IIRC.(or maybe that was something else) its deadly cold here and the FC fires up first time every time.
#14
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So your saying its around 2500 even ten minutes after starting.
AWS is a combination of the BAC and the AWS solenoid working together supposedly for approx 17 seconds then the idle drops down to about 1200-1300 if the water thermowax hasn't extended yet, then down to idle speed which should be about 750rpm
Disconnect your BAC valves elect plug and see if the speed changes. You might even disconnect the AWS solenoid plug and see if that helps. Location pictures are in the online FSM. Page F1-34 and FI-3
AWS is a combination of the BAC and the AWS solenoid working together supposedly for approx 17 seconds then the idle drops down to about 1200-1300 if the water thermowax hasn't extended yet, then down to idle speed which should be about 750rpm
Disconnect your BAC valves elect plug and see if the speed changes. You might even disconnect the AWS solenoid plug and see if that helps. Location pictures are in the online FSM. Page F1-34 and FI-3
Last edited by HAILERS; 12-23-05 at 01:08 PM.
#15
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The knowledge on this site is invaluable, but sometimes annoying. Take it off, leave it on, Mazda this, everyone that, worked for me, I don't like it, it doesn't work, fix it-get rid of it, FSM suggests, rotary diehards demand, what your final answer?
I , from a new person, who obviously DNS about my car, am tired of the SOS , from the same people debating who is the most prominent person on this site. Leave the AWS on, fix it, and go on. Mine works, thanks to the advice from people who most of the time I can't stand, but know enough for me to listen to.
Stop bragging about your "rotary" knowledge, quit bitching about us asking questions, or just don't respond at all. Silence is better served , than criticism, for our willingness to put our "stupidity" out there to keep the cars alive.
PEACE THE DOG
I , from a new person, who obviously DNS about my car, am tired of the SOS , from the same people debating who is the most prominent person on this site. Leave the AWS on, fix it, and go on. Mine works, thanks to the advice from people who most of the time I can't stand, but know enough for me to listen to.
Stop bragging about your "rotary" knowledge, quit bitching about us asking questions, or just don't respond at all. Silence is better served , than criticism, for our willingness to put our "stupidity" out there to keep the cars alive.
PEACE THE DOG
#16
Originally Posted by HAILERS
So your saying its around 2500 even ten minutes after starting.
AWS is a combination of the BAC and the AWS solenoid working together supposedly for approx 17 seconds then the idle drops down to about 1200-1300 if the water thermowax hasn't extended yet, then down to idle speed which should be about 750rpm
Disconnect your BAC valves elect plug and see if the speed changes. You might even disconnect the AWS solenoid plug and see if that helps. Location pictures are in the online FSM. Page F1-34 and FI-3
AWS is a combination of the BAC and the AWS solenoid working together supposedly for approx 17 seconds then the idle drops down to about 1200-1300 if the water thermowax hasn't extended yet, then down to idle speed which should be about 750rpm
Disconnect your BAC valves elect plug and see if the speed changes. You might even disconnect the AWS solenoid plug and see if that helps. Location pictures are in the online FSM. Page F1-34 and FI-3
#17
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It sounds like the thermowax for the fast idle has gone haywire. That thermowax isn't easy to see or understand on a non turbo. It would help to remove just the throttle body and you'd have a good view of it. The thermowax is on the bottom aft side and hard to see with the throttle body installed.
Then you could turn the cam adjusting screw so the cam comes off the roller all the time so to sort of neutralize it.
Maybe the thermowax isn't extending because the water isn't flowing thru the throttle body like it should. Have you done anything to prevent water going thru the throttle body????
Removing the throttle body alone isn't to hard on a non turbo. No manifold removal required and no new gaskets to be made/damaged.
Like I said, the thermowax makes sense if you have the book in front of you AND the throttle body sitting in front of you.
Then you could turn the cam adjusting screw so the cam comes off the roller all the time so to sort of neutralize it.
Maybe the thermowax isn't extending because the water isn't flowing thru the throttle body like it should. Have you done anything to prevent water going thru the throttle body????
Removing the throttle body alone isn't to hard on a non turbo. No manifold removal required and no new gaskets to be made/damaged.
Like I said, the thermowax makes sense if you have the book in front of you AND the throttle body sitting in front of you.
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