Hey Guys,

Yay! no work due to this New England Ice storm! I'm kinda new as it's only my second year w/ a rotary. (sigh sadly, I do admit, I was definitely a honda ricer previously)

I own an 88 vert (which after long searching on this forum and meeting with lots of rotory heads in the NYC area) that I got a little ripped off on and just purchased a 91 vert, to do a chassis swap, that's 1000x better in all aspects for literally 10x less ... sigh

Anyway, I've come a long way since I first purchased my vehicle last year. As I've also been trying to learn about the car and do the work myself (cuz im poor). Luckily, I have been able to get together with an awesome group of local rotorheads who have been very helpful not only with their time / experience but with their tools and spare parts / parts cars as well. This is a rundown of things I've done or found out about my 88 thus far.

88 FC3C:
RB headers / presilencer / turbobackexhaust (yay welder!)
mild streetport?!? (i'm a little suspect! however, the previous owner said it was ported and it's a little faster then my buddies stock s5 FC3S. Also the rotor housings are painted so i guess...)
K&N filter / custom intake (playing w/ the tig, its reall ghetto & ugly! def. version 1.0)
Fuel Filter & Walbro Fuel Pump / (don't know what size, but it puts my fuel pressure gauge to it's redline b/w 120-150lbs... lol)
Tokiko Adj w/ Ebiach Lowering Springs
Full ProThane Bushing Kit / Solid eng&tran mounts
new s5 top (thats like the only good thing the car came with besides the "ported" engine & walbro fuel filter)

ok there's other stuff, but I'm afraid all this really has nothing to do w/ the relevance of subject. So getting back to my fuel issue.

The problem first started, as I was having strange hesitation issues that was very symptomatic of not having fuel but would only happen, rarely, in upper RPM ranges and for a very short period of time, less than a second. However, one day recently, I was on the highway the hesitation began which quickly spread to the car stalling. Luckily I was able to get off the road and into a commuter rail parking lot that happened to be at that exit. THANK GOD! But now it wont start

Electrical.
Wanting to be thorough, I did exhaustive searching trying to removing the possibilities one by one. Fearful that it could have been the "dreaded hesitation problem" and since I was going to have to take the UIM / plenum off anyway. I looked at all my grounds, and even remade some according to arroncakes website. Multi testing shows the grounds within the FSM specs.

Next was the fuel.
First off, after i took the intake manifold off and my rails off, my secondary injectors looked like GARBAGE. Compared to the primaries it's like one of those before and after commercials of what happens when you run injector cleaner or something. Although all injectors all passed the resistance test, the secondaries seriously looked terrible. Maybe that's just means I have to stop driving like a sissy and rev that baby out. However, maybe my secondaries just plain don't work? Although I swore my actuators actuated ... regardless I'll attempt to ascertain that once I get my motor running again.

Oddly enough, when I was taking my fuel system apart to check for clogs or things like that. My secondary fuel rail was virtually dry and there was absolutely NO fuel after my FPR. I put the rails back together, leaving the hose off the return side of the FPR and attempted to crank away ... only to find no fuel returning. I was under the assumption that fuel should always be returning?! That was leading me to believe that my FPR was the culprit to this whole thing. So it was off to the gauges! First the Fuel Pump Pressure test, then the Fuel System Pressure test

I hooked up my gauge to my fuel line, jumped the yellow connector, and almost had a heart attack. It was reading in the redline area (which is not graduated, stupid cheapo gauge company) which is b/w 120-150lbs. Freaking out it wasn't within specs, I went to change it with a used (from a working car) fuel pump I had access too. That's when I found out it was a shiny new looking Walbro ... so maybe 120lbs isnt so bad? With a stock fuel pump it registered at 75psi (i hope that going WOT on my gauge w/ that walbro before didn't break it)

Then I hooked up that three way tee and checked the Fuel System Pressure (with both fuel pumps) 48-52psi with the walbro, 43-45 with the stock used pump. Again in all tests with no fuel leaving after the FPR. Seeing how if the numbers are greater then the given specs means the FPR is broken. The reason I give a pressure range, is that I had available 4 random secondary fuel rails w/ their respective FPR's still attached, some of them I am certain have come off working parted EFI s4's, which ALL when tested returned high pressure +/- a couple from each other (hence 48-52psi w/ the walbro and 43-45 w/ the stock).

Are ALL my FPR's broken? I did this with BOTH fuel pumps. Am I out of my mind? I made sure there was no leaking, that the lines are clear. Am I doing something really foolish? Am I just an idiot?

Once it stops hail/snowing here I'm gonna go buy an FPR and slap it on later this evening. But this just apparently brings up other debate ... should i just get an after market FPR w/ a built in PD and do that banjo bolt mod (to avoid debate and unnecessary rhetoric, I am from the school of though that a PD is necessary. I say this not to pass judgment on others, as this is my belief.) or just build me new rails w/ pretty shiny AN fittings and hoses!

regardless, HEEELLLP MEE!!!

fc3cnyc
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