Hey all, have my 87 S4 TII engine pulled at the moment. Figured while Im here I would clean up some of the stuff that isnt necessary. I will be following DaveClarks guide (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-arch...ve-how-112251/). Is there any other thing/tips I should know before getting started. I want to keep the BAC valve because I plan on keeping the AC. One thing that concerns me is that I will be removing the cats, and putting a 3" exhaust by Racing Beat (RB Rev TII). I will be using the stock air box. Will I have to upgrade the fuel system at all?

 

The racing beat exhaust is about the best bolt on you can do to a Turbo II. You WILL need to modify your fuel system though. If you punch it without fuel mods you will Pop your engine (Ask me how I know.(Damn Transmission Guy)).
I used a Super AFC to add fuel to mine at first. Then Switched to a RTek. Walbro fuel pump Areomotive Pressure regulator.
A wideband O2 Gauge is a Really good Idea to keep an eye on things while you are learning.

 

Did the super AFC work well for you, and did you put a FCD in also? I was thinking of going this route, but then for some reason I am also thinking of just getting a standalone ecu instead. What would be a good way to find out which fuel pump/pressure regulator should I get. Im assuming with this, the stock injectors are fine. Sorry to load you up with questions, just a little bit confused on the topic?

 

The supper AFC worked OK. You will need a FCD (forgot about that) I used Stock Injectors for many years But went to 4x720s when I got a BNR stage 2. The fuel pressure regulators i would recommend are the Aeromotive 1000 series (1000-6 in my 87 turbo back in the day) and the SX regulators, in my 90 turbo now.
I am a huge fan of the Rtek BUT it is an old system and because it uses palm pilots with a serial connection port. it can be a bit difficult to operate.

 

you should check the fuel pump and change the filters for sure. 952-0043 is the OE fuel pump filter.

for the pump you should unplug it, jump the test connector under the hood, and then compare voltage and the pump vs battery voltage. if there is more than a 0.5V drop, you should investigate further (i'm not exactly sure what the FC resistor setup does, with the test connector jumped, if you only get 6v, the relay might need to be bypassed too).

you can do volume and pressure tests on the pump as well, specs are in the FSM. the stock pump was surprisingly ok for mild mods, i ran one well past what the back of the envelope calculations would have suggested possible.

the FD fuel pump is a good upgrade, and if you know someone with an FD they usually have a used one

on the ignition side. you should check the wires, the resistance needs to be under 16K ohms per wire (or just replace). routing is an open question, the leadings should either be away from the trailings, or they should all cross at 90 degree angles. inductive crossfire is the google term. the stock 7/9 plugs are ok for a street car. if you're upping the boost or live somewhere you can step on the gas for longer than 0-60, you might go to colder plugs (i have some for mine, but the 7/9's come out looking great )

the people i know that have "good luck" with rotary engines go through the engine compartment and verify the fuel/ignition, and they test the aftermarket stuff before it goes on the car (it usually fails, lol)

 

You don't need to upgrade your fuel system, I'd replace the pump and filter if I were you though, I like the Walboro 255 works fine stock.