s4 n/a to TII swap HELP!!!
#26
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ok it all makes sense now. im dissapointed in my self. i could have figured this out my self if i had the right diagram. thank you very much and ill update you on what happens when i try and start it.
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It only goes on one way. The four holes for the pulley have a offset pattern. You might get two in but not the other two bolts if the thing isn't aligned right.
Try what I suggested before. Take the spare cas and put it on the harness. Key to ON. Spin the spare cas's bottom gear. IF all is well, there will be spark from the plugs if you lay them on the fender/near the strut tower studs.
No spark could be a blown ENGINE fuse.
You do the cas thing above so you donte wear the starter out nor wear the apex seals etc out.
ENGINE fuse is in the interior fuse box. Location is in the FAQ on this forum (first thread on this forum).
Try what I suggested before. Take the spare cas and put it on the harness. Key to ON. Spin the spare cas's bottom gear. IF all is well, there will be spark from the plugs if you lay them on the fender/near the strut tower studs.
No spark could be a blown ENGINE fuse.
You do the cas thing above so you donte wear the starter out nor wear the apex seals etc out.
ENGINE fuse is in the interior fuse box. Location is in the FAQ on this forum (first thread on this forum).
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IF it turns out to be a blown ENGINE fuse (I THINK the third row up from the bottom, second from the left. 15a fuse), it could be related to the Turbo EM harness on a non turbo car. What might have happened is the brown/red wire in the FEM-01 EM harness plug, is mating with the BW wire in the non turbo Front harness. That BlackWhite wire leads straight to the ENGINE fuse,. and that MIGHT have blown the ENGINE fuse. If indeed it is blown.
Or if you ran two new wires from the alt to the FEM-01 plug, maybe you got them crossed up. ?? The two NEW wires from the alt should be conencting with the Black/white wire and White/Black wire in the FEM-01. That is usually by cutting the Br/R and B wire in the FEM-01 (EM half of the plug) and splicing the two NEW wires to those BrR and B wires remains in the plug.
I'm not really good at explaining this. I know how things work and might be leaving the water muddy after I explain.
Again, your problem MIGHT be another thing altogether.
Could be another thing altogether.
Or if you ran two new wires from the alt to the FEM-01 plug, maybe you got them crossed up. ?? The two NEW wires from the alt should be conencting with the Black/white wire and White/Black wire in the FEM-01. That is usually by cutting the Br/R and B wire in the FEM-01 (EM half of the plug) and splicing the two NEW wires to those BrR and B wires remains in the plug.
I'm not really good at explaining this. I know how things work and might be leaving the water muddy after I explain.
Again, your problem MIGHT be another thing altogether.
Could be another thing altogether.
#30
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it has spark and the injectors are clicking(did the cas trick). a guy i know helped me today and he said the timing was way off. (he's really good with rotarys.)
#33
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I don't think so. Not much at least. I say this with TWO of the timing gears in my hand with the keyways aligned. I look at 'em then turn one around and mate the keyways again. At times I can head fake myself into thinking there is a SLIGHT/hair bit of difference but on the whole, nope. No diff.
I did rebuild an engine for my 86 several years ago. When it came to timing it after it got running, I noticed that, the cas needed to be turned all the way anti clockwise for the timing marks to align (timing light). I restabbed that cas any (pick a number) or times and the result was always the same. I eventually had to auger out a longer slot in the cas so it would rotate that last 1/8 of an inch so the timing marks would align using a timing light.
I used to blame this on MAYBE I had put the timing gear on *** backwards (there's a champfer on the holes edge indicating which way for it to go on the eccentric shaft). Well, the car runs like a champ and there's NO WAY I'll pull that front cover off to find out if I put the gear on backwards or not.
Bottom line........I don't think it will matter much if any when I look at the two gears in my hand. Later I'll try to find a woodruff key to put b/t the two to perfectly align them and have another look.
Rebuilt engine???? I'd suggest disabling thepump and using starter fluid to start it for the first time. Maybe a fuel cut switch so you can switch the pump on once the engine catches? Yes. PUlling the EGI is NOT a good way at all since it kills spark also.
I did rebuild an engine for my 86 several years ago. When it came to timing it after it got running, I noticed that, the cas needed to be turned all the way anti clockwise for the timing marks to align (timing light). I restabbed that cas any (pick a number) or times and the result was always the same. I eventually had to auger out a longer slot in the cas so it would rotate that last 1/8 of an inch so the timing marks would align using a timing light.
I used to blame this on MAYBE I had put the timing gear on *** backwards (there's a champfer on the holes edge indicating which way for it to go on the eccentric shaft). Well, the car runs like a champ and there's NO WAY I'll pull that front cover off to find out if I put the gear on backwards or not.
Bottom line........I don't think it will matter much if any when I look at the two gears in my hand. Later I'll try to find a woodruff key to put b/t the two to perfectly align them and have another look.
Rebuilt engine???? I'd suggest disabling thepump and using starter fluid to start it for the first time. Maybe a fuel cut switch so you can switch the pump on once the engine catches? Yes. PUlling the EGI is NOT a good way at all since it kills spark also.
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Take the top cover off the cas. Align the marks on the bottom of the cas. Now hold that and look in the top side of the cas where you took the top cover off. Notice the *gear* with two teeth is cutting across the corners of the black coil devices.
If the pulley marks are aligned with the fixed pointer on the front of the engine, then install the cas. ROTATE the cas's body til those two *teeth* in the top are exactly where you saw them when you, earlier, aligned the bottom marks on the cas. You should be within five degrees of correct timing when you finally get it running and are using a timing light.
If the pulley marks are aligned with the fixed pointer on the front of the engine, then install the cas. ROTATE the cas's body til those two *teeth* in the top are exactly where you saw them when you, earlier, aligned the bottom marks on the cas. You should be within five degrees of correct timing when you finally get it running and are using a timing light.
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ok so i got it to run for about 15 seconds but i still think its flooding. when i unplug the fuel pump and try and start it it runs for a few seconds but when i plug it back in it just cranks over. when i say "run" i mean it BARELY stays running. could it be the fuel pressure regulator?
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FPR stock are pretty reliable from the ones I have owned. Just make sure the vacuum line is on it. But during start with no vacuum it should be regulating to approx 37-39psi. That's normal pressure during starting.
I'd make a fuel cut switch of some sort. Then you could have the fuel cut off from the pump and start the engine. Once it starts flip the switch to On and maybe you can get it to run for a longer period of time. IF you can get it to run longer maybe you can get a clue as to what needs to be done to get it to run better.
Or have someone at the fuel pump plug apart. Start the engine and once it makes running sounds have that other someone immediately put the fuel pump plug back together so the engine will keep running.
I'd make a fuel cut switch of some sort. Then you could have the fuel cut off from the pump and start the engine. Once it starts flip the switch to On and maybe you can get it to run for a longer period of time. IF you can get it to run longer maybe you can get a clue as to what needs to be done to get it to run better.
Or have someone at the fuel pump plug apart. Start the engine and once it makes running sounds have that other someone immediately put the fuel pump plug back together so the engine will keep running.
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On the rear of the seconday fuel rail. The last thing in the fuel system before the fuel returns to the fuel tank.
If you were to remove it, the upper intake would have to be removed.
PAge 4B-5 of the Fuel and Emissons in the eighty eight FSM online. That's a Turbo car.
If you were to remove it, the upper intake would have to be removed.
PAge 4B-5 of the Fuel and Emissons in the eighty eight FSM online. That's a Turbo car.
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If you jumper the fuel pump check connector and put the key to ON, you should hear the fuel running thru the fuel rails back to the fuel tank continuously. IF so, good. IF NOT, then maybe the fuel lines are not on right which would cause really high fuel rail pressue.
Take the return line off the engine where it connects on the left side of the engine. Jumper the yellow connetor and momentarily put the key to ON. fuel should flow out from the hard line on the engine. If not, something is hosed wrong.
Never seen a bad FPR in my limited experience. I've had maybe five or six different engines with no problem. Except the first turo engine I bought has been in a PD fire and I blamed that for the FPR not working right. It had no flow out of it at all.
Take the return line off the engine where it connects on the left side of the engine. Jumper the yellow connetor and momentarily put the key to ON. fuel should flow out from the hard line on the engine. If not, something is hosed wrong.
Never seen a bad FPR in my limited experience. I've had maybe five or six different engines with no problem. Except the first turo engine I bought has been in a PD fire and I blamed that for the FPR not working right. It had no flow out of it at all.
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I've HEARD of people pinching the fuel hoses with vice grips to block the fuel coming into the engine and once started let off the vice grips. I've never done that myself. 'Seems a wrong thing to do to a high pressure fuel hose. Buuuuuut, if you let off the vice grips just a touch maybe you'd have less fuel pressure????? Really should not post that idea....but did.
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BUT, if you can hold the key to Start and fuel flows, that's good and normal. It would also mean the lines are on good/right.
#48
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it has no spark now... i think its the ecu b/c the car i took it out of had a broken out passenger window. and when i took the ecu out it was very damp under the carpet.
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check that no spark or injector pulse. i also checked the engine fuse. its fine. and if i unplug and re plug the fuse with the key on the car makes clicking noises. sounds like relays kicking on.