S4 ignition switch with S5 car/Harness
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From: Boston
The idiot lights are supposed to go out because they run off the ignition 2 fuse which loses power w/key to start so the voltage can be used for the items necessary to start the car. If you bridged the voltage at the starter which comes from the battery to the spade for the starter solenoid it should engage the starter. The long mounting bolt is for the negative/ground on the starter and the other large bolt is for the battery positive.
Pay attention to what rotaryevolution states.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-help-1093859/
Also, look at post #40 for reference (wiring is wrong) and read what is said in the following post (post #41).
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-932163/page2/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-help-1093859/
Also, look at post #40 for reference (wiring is wrong) and read what is said in the following post (post #41).
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-932163/page2/
Last edited by satch; Sep 24, 2016 at 10:35 AM.
Would you believe the Black/Red wire from the plug (inhibitor) which was jumpered. And the spade connector receives 12 volts w/key to start but we already knew this.
Last edited by satch; Sep 24, 2016 at 01:50 PM.
The B/R wire from the inhibitor ought to already run to the starter solenoid spade. When in doubt always rely on a simple continuity test to verify things. It's like if you wanted to make sure the B/G wire in a plug which you believed to be the inhibitor plug was the same B/G wire at the starter cut relay then you perform a continuity test (always done w/no voltage on the wire) and if the meter rings out then you know exactly what wire you're dealing with. Same goes w/the Black/Red wire.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 89
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From: Boston
The B/R wire from the inhibitor ought to already run to the starter solenoid spade. When in doubt always rely on a simple continuity test to verify things. It's like if you wanted to make sure the B/G wire in a plug which you believed to be the inhibitor plug was the same B/G wire at the starter cut relay then you perform a continuity test (always done w/no voltage on the wire) and if the meter rings out then you know exactly what wire you're dealing with. Same goes w/the Black/Red wire.
Make sure you have the correct two wires via a continuity test. Secondly, twisting the wires is likely not sufficient enough because you need a large amount of amps to engage the starter.
Again, you can bridge the voltage from the battery connection at the starter to the starter solenoid spade and the starter should engage to test the starter.
And sometimes the starter cut relay is a weak link so you might need to bypass it (jumper the Black/Blue wire to the thick B/G wire). But one more time with feeling!! The key to start produces a signal at the starter cut relay on the Black/Blue wire. It either does or it doesn't. If it does then the voltage passes through the relay to the thick B/G wire. Either it does or it doesn't. If either of these things are not occurring then the starter cannot possibly engage.
If the wires were connected properly then it stands to reason that if the thick B/G wire at the starter relay had voltage jumpered to it from the positive battery terminal that the starter would engage.
Again, you can bridge the voltage from the battery connection at the starter to the starter solenoid spade and the starter should engage to test the starter.
And sometimes the starter cut relay is a weak link so you might need to bypass it (jumper the Black/Blue wire to the thick B/G wire). But one more time with feeling!! The key to start produces a signal at the starter cut relay on the Black/Blue wire. It either does or it doesn't. If it does then the voltage passes through the relay to the thick B/G wire. Either it does or it doesn't. If either of these things are not occurring then the starter cannot possibly engage.
If the wires were connected properly then it stands to reason that if the thick B/G wire at the starter relay had voltage jumpered to it from the positive battery terminal that the starter would engage.
Last edited by satch; Sep 24, 2016 at 09:05 PM.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 89
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From: Boston
Make sure you have the correct two wires via a continuity test. Secondly, twisting the wires is likely not sufficient enough because you need a large amount of amps to engage the starter.
Again, you can bridge the voltage from the battery connection at the starter to the starter solenoid spade and the starter should engage to test the starter.
And sometimes the starter cut relay is a weak link so you might need to bypass it (jumper the Black/Blue wire to the thick B/G wire). But one more time with feeling!! The key to start produces a signal at the starter cut relay on the Black/Blue wire. It either does or it doesn't. If it does then the voltage passes through the relay to the thick B/G wire. Either it does or it doesn't. If either of these things are not occurring then the starter cannot possibly engage.
If the wires were connected properly then it stands to reason that if the thick B/G wire at the starter relay had voltage jumpered to it from the positive battery terminal that the starter would engage.
Again, you can bridge the voltage from the battery connection at the starter to the starter solenoid spade and the starter should engage to test the starter.
And sometimes the starter cut relay is a weak link so you might need to bypass it (jumper the Black/Blue wire to the thick B/G wire). But one more time with feeling!! The key to start produces a signal at the starter cut relay on the Black/Blue wire. It either does or it doesn't. If it does then the voltage passes through the relay to the thick B/G wire. Either it does or it doesn't. If either of these things are not occurring then the starter cannot possibly engage.
If the wires were connected properly then it stands to reason that if the thick B/G wire at the starter relay had voltage jumpered to it from the positive battery terminal that the starter would engage.
i couldnt have done without my friend thank for being patience with my dumbass
I GOT IT! Holy hell finally! I had to attach jumper cables to a another car but it cranked beautifully. It has no gas so its not going to turn on until tomorrow but thats its first crank in 20 years i couldnt have done without my friend thank for being patience with my dumbass
i couldnt have done without my friend thank for being patience with my dumbass
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Sep 23, 2016 07:14 PM