s4 block powered by s5 ecu.
#1
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s4 block powered by s5 ecu.
I am trying to make an s4 engine block work with the s5 ecu , fuel delivery system/throttle body.
There are no vacuum leaks. The crank angle sensor is fine and is set in correctly. And all other major components check out in this system. Of course the EGR is blocked off and I have had to use the s5 front cover and omp.
It will start right up. It usually smokes for about a minute and there is the popping noise that comes from the muffs when the tack decelerates. It has no power when driven up the street. But will make it up to speed with no violent hesitations. Smooth, but very very slow acceleration. So I guess a good way to describe this is to say it has almost zero throttle response under load. Because when the car itself is not in motion, it will easily go to redline, and very quickly. It will also not idle either.
I did look at the various write up that were available for the s4 to s5 swap.
What I want to know is:
1.) whether or not the s5 ECU can give the correct fuel air mixture information for the s4 block?
And
2.) Would an ek6 stand alone allow me to determine the s4 block and s5 ECU compatibility? That is, can I use the ek6 to act like an s4 ecu and an s5 ecu?
There are no vacuum leaks. The crank angle sensor is fine and is set in correctly. And all other major components check out in this system. Of course the EGR is blocked off and I have had to use the s5 front cover and omp.
It will start right up. It usually smokes for about a minute and there is the popping noise that comes from the muffs when the tack decelerates. It has no power when driven up the street. But will make it up to speed with no violent hesitations. Smooth, but very very slow acceleration. So I guess a good way to describe this is to say it has almost zero throttle response under load. Because when the car itself is not in motion, it will easily go to redline, and very quickly. It will also not idle either.
I did look at the various write up that were available for the s4 to s5 swap.
What I want to know is:
1.) whether or not the s5 ECU can give the correct fuel air mixture information for the s4 block?
And
2.) Would an ek6 stand alone allow me to determine the s4 block and s5 ECU compatibility? That is, can I use the ek6 to act like an s4 ecu and an s5 ecu?
Last edited by Templeswain; 10-13-03 at 07:29 PM.
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from the post I gather that you have the S4 BLOCK ONLY, and everything else is S5. everything else includes harness/afm/injectors
if thats the case you should be able to get the thing running decent. have you actually checked timing w/ light?
then check/double check everything like correct electrical connections (especially injectors), engine compression!, afm, injectors firing and spraying properly, intake air leaks, etc. etc. etc.
btw, I got an s5 block run by an s4 computer with major modifications done to it and it runs great. it is possible!
if thats the case you should be able to get the thing running decent. have you actually checked timing w/ light?
then check/double check everything like correct electrical connections (especially injectors), engine compression!, afm, injectors firing and spraying properly, intake air leaks, etc. etc. etc.
btw, I got an s5 block run by an s4 computer with major modifications done to it and it runs great. it is possible!
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Originally posted by niner
[B]from the post I gather that you have the S4 BLOCK ONLY, and everything else is S5. everything else includes harness/afm/injectors
[B]from the post I gather that you have the S4 BLOCK ONLY, and everything else is S5. everything else includes harness/afm/injectors
Yes that's correct: the s4 block only.
if thats the case you should be able to get the thing running decent. have you actually checked timing w/ light?
I can't get her to idle to even check the timing. I thought maybe if I had a friend reving it low while I checked the timing that would be okay, but to tell you the truth I don't even know if you can accurately or correctly time it under this condition.
then check/double check everything like correct electrical connections (especially injectors),
engine compression!,
afm, injectors firing and spraying properly, intake air leaks, etc. etc. etc. btw, I got an s5 block run by an s4 computer with major modifications done to it and it runs great. it is possible!
Thanks for the suggestions. I will definately follow up.
Much appreciated, because I know it should be possible too.
What did you have to do to get the VDI to open with s4 computer?
#5
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Sounds like a problem with timing. You could be a tooth or 2 off with the CAS, or you could have a screwed up hub/pulley combo on the front. So long as you dont take the pulley plates off the front hub, any hub will give accurate timing on a 2gen 13B. When you start taking the pulley plates off and perhaps get confused and mixed up with those from another hub, then you can get an inaccurate timing mark very easily. I have done it before myself without even knowing it. If you suspect this is the case, the only way to know is to find a stock, non-screwed-with hub/pulley set, and install it as a whole.
What I'm saying about that is that the e-shaft keyway-to-pulley timing mark relationship is always the same, however the position that the holes are drilled in the middle (plates to hub) are not always consistent. Even though the different plates will still bolt to the hubs (they used the same pattern), it can throw the mark off ultimately.
Usually timing a tooth or more off will exhibit itself as slight difficulty in starting, lack of idle ability under 1500-2000, and absolute lack of low end power (such as pulling out from a stop on a hill).
What I'm saying about that is that the e-shaft keyway-to-pulley timing mark relationship is always the same, however the position that the holes are drilled in the middle (plates to hub) are not always consistent. Even though the different plates will still bolt to the hubs (they used the same pattern), it can throw the mark off ultimately.
Usually timing a tooth or more off will exhibit itself as slight difficulty in starting, lack of idle ability under 1500-2000, and absolute lack of low end power (such as pulling out from a stop on a hill).
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