Rx7 newb wanting to mod an 88 TII
04-13-09, 06:55 PM
#1
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Rx7 newb wanting to mod an 88 TII
ok guys before you say to use the search feature i have searched and found alot of different answers but i want to get to a certain hp... looking to get around 230 -250 and still be reliable... i picked the car up in January from an older couple it was garaged and driven about once a week is what i was told... the car has 31k and im trying to figure out the mods i can do without really tearing into it... if you guys have any suugestions i would greatly appreciate it!!! thanks!
04-13-09, 08:01 PM
#3
If you mean brake horsepower (flywheel), then just opening the intake and exhaust up & upping the boost a little (like 7-8 psi) should get to that hp range. You will also need to port the wastegate to avoid overboosting and hitting fuel cut at 8.6psi / blowing the engine.
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04-13-09, 08:14 PM
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Sounds like a find! I would just replace the cat with a test pipe, set it to 7 PSI, aftermarket clutch and leave it at that. I would ask what you paid for her...but it would just **** me off that I cant find steels like this!!!!
04-13-09, 08:28 PM
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how much do i port the wastegate... i read a link that showed a good chunk removed and they welded a new door... i dont have access to a welder so that would be out of the question right now
04-13-09, 09:47 PM
#12
if you want 230-250whp you will need new secondary injectors with a rewired fuel pump, a full exhaust and ported wastegate with no cat, preferably Rtek 2.1 engine management and a tune, and 12psi or so (maxing out the turbo and stock intercooler). which means the intake manifold needs to come off. which means you will have to do a vac job. and you may go deleting equipment that affects driveability, because somebody on here who couldn't figure out how to maintain it told you to do so in the name of simplicity. And that's when the "why does my car idle funny" threads start. I'm not trying to rain on your parade, I'm just point out the common pattern here unfortunately.
if you just dropped 6000 on the car I would just put a catback on there and drive it around for a while. I guess you could technically port the wastegate and put some kind of exhaust on there. but then you will need to rewire the fuel pump at least (to handle the boost increase) and get your injectors flow tested and cleaned, which requires removal of the intake manifold and a vac job... i mean really, I just don't see how you can reliably turn the boost up without ultimately tearing half the motor apart. you could skip some of the reliability steps and risk it, but you paid a lot of money for a 20 year old car and you should protect your investment.
just do a racing beat catback and suspension for now.
one last thing. always leave it in gear when you park it so that the accelerated warmup system doesn't ever come on at startup, and your car won't shoot to 3000rpms when cold.
if you just dropped 6000 on the car I would just put a catback on there and drive it around for a while. I guess you could technically port the wastegate and put some kind of exhaust on there. but then you will need to rewire the fuel pump at least (to handle the boost increase) and get your injectors flow tested and cleaned, which requires removal of the intake manifold and a vac job... i mean really, I just don't see how you can reliably turn the boost up without ultimately tearing half the motor apart. you could skip some of the reliability steps and risk it, but you paid a lot of money for a 20 year old car and you should protect your investment.
just do a racing beat catback and suspension for now.
one last thing. always leave it in gear when you park it so that the accelerated warmup system doesn't ever come on at startup, and your car won't shoot to 3000rpms when cold.
04-13-09, 11:25 PM
#13
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^^^ That pretty much sums it up. Read, read, read. Do tons of research on this site and it will save you so much time & money in the end. Have fun with the car and make sure all the reliability things are taken care of before you start modding.
04-14-09, 06:43 AM
#17
What are you doing with the car and how did you arrive at "230-250" hp as the magic number?
In my opinion, the only motorsport where HP is the absolute defining criteria is drag racing and even then other factors play a significant role.
For any other application- and definitely in street use- suspension, brakes, tires and driver ability are by far the most important areas to work with.
If you spend a penny on the engine before optimizing the chassis setup, yur doin it rong.
04-14-09, 11:09 AM
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04-14-09, 11:39 AM
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well rested,buffet o food
Fuel cut in a s4 is 5.5 psi. If you dont get at least an rtek 1.7 (pocketlogger.com), you will NOT HAVE FUEL to your rear rotor by upping boost.
Listen to argh.......to safely get 230 flywheel horsepower is going to cost you money.
rtek 1.7, 720cc secondarys, ported wastegate, exhaust, test pipe, walbro 255 with rewire job, hard intake pipe and 8 or 9 pounds of boost.
My advice is to drive the car before any of this. Upgrade suspension as previously mentioned and get used to the feel of the car.
It is great you are asking questions before doing anything out of respect for your car.
That is definately the begining.
Always ask questions first, like you did, despite some people talking ****.
john ny
Listen to argh.......to safely get 230 flywheel horsepower is going to cost you money.
rtek 1.7, 720cc secondarys, ported wastegate, exhaust, test pipe, walbro 255 with rewire job, hard intake pipe and 8 or 9 pounds of boost.
My advice is to drive the car before any of this. Upgrade suspension as previously mentioned and get used to the feel of the car.
It is great you are asking questions before doing anything out of respect for your car.
That is definately the begining.
Always ask questions first, like you did, despite some people talking ****.
john ny
04-14-09, 03:55 PM
#21
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if you want 230-250whp you will need new secondary injectors with a rewired fuel pump, a full exhaust and ported wastegate with no cat, preferably Rtek 2.1 engine management and a tune, and 12psi or so (maxing out the turbo and stock intercooler). which means the intake manifold needs to come off. which means you will have to do a vac job. and you may go deleting equipment that affects driveability, because somebody on here who couldn't figure out how to maintain it told you to do so in the name of simplicity. And that's when the "why does my car idle funny" threads start. I'm not trying to rain on your parade, I'm just point out the common pattern here unfortunately.
if you just dropped 6000 on the car I would just put a catback on there and drive it around for a while. I guess you could technically port the wastegate and put some kind of exhaust on there. but then you will need to rewire the fuel pump at least (to handle the boost increase) and get your injectors flow tested and cleaned, which requires removal of the intake manifold and a vac job... i mean really, I just don't see how you can reliably turn the boost up without ultimately tearing half the motor apart. you could skip some of the reliability steps and risk it, but you paid a lot of money for a 20 year old car and you should protect your investment.
just do a racing beat catback and suspension for now.
one last thing. always leave it in gear when you park it so that the accelerated warmup system doesn't ever come on at startup, and your car won't shoot to 3000rpms when cold.
if you just dropped 6000 on the car I would just put a catback on there and drive it around for a while. I guess you could technically port the wastegate and put some kind of exhaust on there. but then you will need to rewire the fuel pump at least (to handle the boost increase) and get your injectors flow tested and cleaned, which requires removal of the intake manifold and a vac job... i mean really, I just don't see how you can reliably turn the boost up without ultimately tearing half the motor apart. you could skip some of the reliability steps and risk it, but you paid a lot of money for a 20 year old car and you should protect your investment.
just do a racing beat catback and suspension for now.
one last thing. always leave it in gear when you park it so that the accelerated warmup system doesn't ever come on at startup, and your car won't shoot to 3000rpms when cold.
04-14-09, 06:00 PM
#22
once you start gutting/eliminating cats the boost will go up pretty quick. a factory car has two precats and a main cat. you might be able to do a full 2.5" exhaust which would eliminate the precats (aftermarket downpipe) keep while keeping the stock main cat, or switching to a high flowing one. DO NOT do 3 inch or the boost creep will be nuts. Do not eliminate the cat. the car will fuel cut at 8psi. look into the rtek 1.5 chip ( http://www.digitaltuning.com/index.p...rtek7_techinfo ), that would eliminate fuel cut and make it safer for higher boost.
04-15-09, 02:20 PM
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Every time I see a post like this I wonder, so this time I'll just ask...
What are you doing with the car and how did you arrive at "230-250" hp as the magic number?
In my opinion, the only motorsport where HP is the absolute defining criteria is drag racing and even then other factors play a significant role.
For any other application- and definitely in street use- suspension, brakes, tires and driver ability are by far the most important areas to work with.
If you spend a penny on the engine before optimizing the chassis setup, yur doin it rong.
What are you doing with the car and how did you arrive at "230-250" hp as the magic number?
In my opinion, the only motorsport where HP is the absolute defining criteria is drag racing and even then other factors play a significant role.
For any other application- and definitely in street use- suspension, brakes, tires and driver ability are by far the most important areas to work with.
If you spend a penny on the engine before optimizing the chassis setup, yur doin it rong.
04-15-09, 05:05 PM
#25
Faster than what?
Before you consider "mods", first consider where you are now.
Assuming your car is unmolested- are the bushings in good shape, are the shocks OK, are the springs uncollapsed?
Are your tires in good shape and is the alignment good?
If the answer to any of the above is "No" or "I don't know", then that's where you start.