Me and my buddy just ran a new wire to pump and its gettin 13 or 14 volts all the
Time now, but that didn't fix my problem

 

I'm gonna try an ecu today I have another resistor relay ill try that aswell

 

Noticed today my lower intake manifold has a slight coolant leak don't think this is the root of the issue but its worth a shot

 

Tried another ecu no luck...officially stumped

 

Have you tested the Boost Sensor?
Does the car rev freely when in neutral w/o any issues?
Have you accidentally placed the primary injector plugs on the secondary injectors?
What kind of exhaust do you have?
Have you checked for error codes?

 

The boost sensor has not been checked yet. The way the wiring harness is routed it would seem impossible to mess it up but I will check based on the suggestion. Car revs fine all the way to redline in nutral, it revs one as long as I say out of boost in gear as well. I have a 3 inch turbo back exhaust with a divorced waste gate setup. I do not have a check engine light nor do I know if the check engine light works it has never been on. I will test the boost sensor per the fsm tomorrow ill see if I have a spare one laying around chances are I do.

 

Also my secondary injector plugs are for my rc injectors.

 

There's a check connector near the leading coil which when combined with the LED light setup used by some to test the TPS or pull codes on an S4 can also be used to pull codes on an S5. Check connector has three wires, one of the Yellow wires is used plus the B/W wire. Also, does your exhaust have catalytic converters which could be clogged? And make sure you have the proper vacuum source for your Boost Sensor.

How to make LED lights to manually pull codes.

http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/error%20codes.html#LED Circuit Figure

 

Nope no cat. Ill try that out and see if I can get any codes from it. Are the pinouts different for an s5?

 

Yes, but that is rather irrelevant in manually pulling codes. You just use the three wire check connector near the lead coil.

 

Okay I'll get back to you with my findings thank you!

 

i had an S5 one time that would run lean, like the secondaries wouldn't come on, and when i plugged the fuel pressure solenoid in, it fixed it. note it was only plugged in electrically, no vacuum hooked to it.

if you have a code for the PRC/Fuel pressure regulator you might try that

 

Fuel pressure senenoid that's a new one where is it located

 

the wiring harness

 

You aren't referring to the fuel pressure regulator correct?

 

it is the solenoid on the rats nest, it is tagged with an orange label and orange colored 2 pin I I plug. at least that is if my memory isn't slipping, but i am 95% certain it is the orange one, most cars don't even have a rat's nest any longer.

 

prcv.

 

My car hasn't had the rats nest in ages so I wouldn't think that it would cause an issue ill plug it in for ***** and giggles. One thing I do remember deleting with the motor rebuild was the boost control selenoid but as far as I know into car is far past te boost control selenoids usefulness. It never had vacuum lines but was plugged in I removed it completely this time

 

Checked the codes today one led stayed constantly lit while the other blinked I came up with 31,32,42,25 both 25 an 42 are not listed as codes also I think that the other led should have been giving feed back any tips Satch?

 

All these codes are listed for an S5

RX7 FD & Series 5 Error Codes

And if you want to verify that the code checker works properly you can unplug the TPS for example and see if it gives you a code 12 and an 18.

Remember, one wire goes to B/W while there are two choices for the second wire so if you feel you chose the wrong Yellow wire then try the other Yellow based wire.

 

There's only 3 wires on my test connector not 4 like in the guide. So there could be codes I'm missing because the one led stays on constantly instead of flashing. So I am probably missing the codes from the ecu pin 1a correct? The few codes I received are emissions based. I would expect atleast one mechanical base code. Any idea if the pins are different on the s5?

 

The S4 has four wires in its code checking plug. The S5 has but three wires. You own an S5 thus you only have three wires. You are not missing any wires.

And once again:

And if you want to verify that the code checker works properly you can unplug the TPS for example and see if it gives you a code 12 and an 18.

Remember, one wire goes to B/W while there are two choices for the second wire so if you feel you chose the wrong Yellow wire then try the other Yellow based wire.

 

there are no mechanical codes, virtually all are emissions based with the exception of the OMP which puts the car into limp mode.

this is 1980's technology.

 

The only code that stuck out was code 25 which is the PRC code ill see if i can find my rats nest and snag the solenoid. Also going to try a new resistor relay today. Wish i could just get rid of the thing.

 

the regulator solenoid just pulls pressure up to assist in hot start conditions, it wouldn't cause the car to run lean under boost unless you do not have the regulator line attached to a vacuum AND pressure source.

the codes mean nothing if there is no rat's nest, all emissions related codes can be disregarded. if you're **** you can put in a few .25-.5watt 1k ohm resistors on the plugs to eliminate the codes. the ECU will only cause corrections if the main sensors aren't working correctly, such as: AFM, pressure sensor, CAS, AFM IAT, ECT, TPS and knock.

running lean under boost is almost always one of 2 things, an AFM dying out or low fuel volume/pressure. it could also be a marginal ground for the engine harness on top of the engine but this is generally noticed by a severe lean spike during secondary transition at 3.8k RPMs which could carry through beyond that point if it is bad enough. a faulty TPS could also be the problem but less likely unless it has an open spot during position sweep which causes the engine to fuel cut the rear rotor, because it thinks the throttle is closed(result being like you just shut the engine off until you back off the throttle). final possibility could be a faulty secondary injector or clip.