Rx7 Fc IAT? (also how to deal with the death rattle!))
03-30-15, 09:33 PM
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Rx7 Fc IAT? (also how to deal with the death rattle!))
1. AIT: Are there any aftermarket AIT's that have the same values as the FC? I have found a bunch of discussion on the FD ones, but none on FC... I simply don't want to shell out the $70 bucks for one, was hoping to find one under 50.
2. On to the second point, the death rattle. When going above 40MPH I saw the car shakes like mad. (Was driving next to it) When driving the Rx7 the steering wheel tilts and goes back to center violently over and over again. I have seen a thread about this that the alignment caused this to a person, but for the looks of it, my wheels look pretty straight (I used to do alignments by eye on my beater). Underneath, my sway bar endlinks are worn, but everything else is OK.
2. On to the second point, the death rattle. When going above 40MPH I saw the car shakes like mad. (Was driving next to it) When driving the Rx7 the steering wheel tilts and goes back to center violently over and over again. I have seen a thread about this that the alignment caused this to a person, but for the looks of it, my wheels look pretty straight (I used to do alignments by eye on my beater). Underneath, my sway bar endlinks are worn, but everything else is OK.
03-31-15, 09:00 AM
#2
So are you saying the wheel shimmies back and forth when you say tilts?
It's a bit of laundry list,, but check your wheel-bearing play - push and pull on the top the tires, there should be virtually no play or clicking.
Check your wheels aren't bent or out-of-round: jack up the front, and spin the wheels by hand, watching it both almost edge on looking for side-to-side wobble, and looking at a fixed point along the bead to look for out of round (or possibly not hub centric, if they are aftermarket rims).
With the front up, try pushing and pulling on the wheels again, top and bottom, and side-to-side. You're looking for free play, which could indicate worn balljoints (on the lower control arm), or worn tie-rod ends.
Have a look under the car, and have a look at the inner control arm bushings - the rubber may have small cracks, but shouldn't have deep cracks or appear to form even a partly hollowed out ring.
Too obvious perhaps, but are the wheels balanced? Maybe a balance weight came off? 40mph is a low speed for a bad shake to occur, but if the wheel is badly out of balance, it could happen. Look also for uneven tire wear, particularly cupping, which indicates out of round or out of balance wheels.
There's a few things to check at least...
It's a bit of laundry list,, but check your wheel-bearing play - push and pull on the top the tires, there should be virtually no play or clicking.
Check your wheels aren't bent or out-of-round: jack up the front, and spin the wheels by hand, watching it both almost edge on looking for side-to-side wobble, and looking at a fixed point along the bead to look for out of round (or possibly not hub centric, if they are aftermarket rims).
With the front up, try pushing and pulling on the wheels again, top and bottom, and side-to-side. You're looking for free play, which could indicate worn balljoints (on the lower control arm), or worn tie-rod ends.
Have a look under the car, and have a look at the inner control arm bushings - the rubber may have small cracks, but shouldn't have deep cracks or appear to form even a partly hollowed out ring.
Too obvious perhaps, but are the wheels balanced? Maybe a balance weight came off? 40mph is a low speed for a bad shake to occur, but if the wheel is badly out of balance, it could happen. Look also for uneven tire wear, particularly cupping, which indicates out of round or out of balance wheels.
There's a few things to check at least...
03-31-15, 10:22 AM
#3
Smells like 2 stroke.
I got rid of the 'death rattle' on my old FC by simply replacing the ball joints. My current FC shimmies slightly between 55 - 75mph, and the tire store told me the ball joints needed to be replaced. I would work my way down the list: balance tires/check for bent wheels, check bearings, tie rod ends, ball joints, upper strut mounts, and have it aligned.
04-01-15, 01:54 AM
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Ok will do, but i cant do anything as of now, car on ramps atm and i cant move it.
A little off topic, but i baught a new water temp sensor, plugged it in and still got code 9&11 one of those is for water thermosensor. I checked the wires, and they were good :/. Im not sure what to do next, any suggestions? Btw, would no coolant throw the water thermosensor off? I have drained it and hadnt refilled yet. Also my car has a plug for the water temp sensor for the fan (round plug) but no sensor, could that code also pertain to that sensor being unplugged..? Btw i have a clutch fan not electric. 1990 n/a rx7 manual
A little off topic, but i baught a new water temp sensor, plugged it in and still got code 9&11 one of those is for water thermosensor. I checked the wires, and they were good :/. Im not sure what to do next, any suggestions? Btw, would no coolant throw the water thermosensor off? I have drained it and hadnt refilled yet. Also my car has a plug for the water temp sensor for the fan (round plug) but no sensor, could that code also pertain to that sensor being unplugged..? Btw i have a clutch fan not electric. 1990 n/a rx7 manual
04-02-15, 05:15 PM
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I broke the two prongs off of it. But I just found a used one so i purchased it. Now, I replaced the Water thermosensor, plugged it up, checke wires around the plug, and all is good, but I still get a CEL #9 which is water thermosensor... where do I go from here?
Last edited by Chillichinchilla; 04-02-15 at 05:29 PM.
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