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rx-7 rebuild: what parts do i have to clean

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Old 12-18-07, 08:39 PM
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rx-7 rebuild: what parts do i have to clean

ok i got a n/a 13b. this is my first rebuild and i need some help on what parts im suppose to clean. like what parts im suppose to clean and what im not suppose to clean. i just need some info in what to do.

thanks
Old 12-18-07, 08:57 PM
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Everything.

Who rebuilds engines with dirty parts?
It's a good idea to just clean everything up.
Dirt and grime might hid defects / cracks / damage that you won't otherwise see.


-Ted
Old 12-18-07, 08:59 PM
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i know that. but is there like parts where the cleaning solvent cant touch???

or do i just clean everything and it doesnt matter what the solvent cleans?? cuz somebody told me theres parts that the solvent cant touch

Last edited by Aaron Cake; 12-19-07 at 09:16 AM. Reason: Merge two posts
Old 12-18-07, 09:05 PM
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I wouldn't clean all the new seals and what not, no reason too because they are new. Are you referring to the ENTIRE engine (electrical components, sensors etc...) or just the internals? Internals: Clean everything metal, don't touch the seals with any solvents, and be wary of flash rusting (especially on the rotors). Externals, well that's easy enough, don't drown your sensors.
Old 12-18-07, 09:10 PM
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yea i ment like the housings, irons and rotors. so just all that can be cleaned by solvent.

ok so dont let the seals touch the solvent

Last edited by Aaron Cake; 12-19-07 at 09:19 AM. Reason: Merge two posts
Old 12-18-07, 09:29 PM
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Go here

RotaryResurrection has a beautiful rebuild write-up and it includes cleaning instructions.
Old 12-18-07, 09:31 PM
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get a tank and start cleaning housings,irons,rotors all inside motor (hard) parts get in all the grooves key it to get it to brand new looking as possible.
Old 12-18-07, 09:33 PM
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alright thanks for all your help
Old 12-18-07, 10:21 PM
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i heard you dont clean the rotors till you are ready to build, is this true??
Old 12-18-07, 10:46 PM
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And when you say seals not touching the solvent? it depends on what seals you're talking about. No, you of course wouldn't want any rubber mingling with cleaning solvent as such solvent is abrasive.

But anything metal, not affected by altering tolerances, is fair game.
Old 12-18-07, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by vrracing
RotaryResurrection has a beautiful rebuild write-up and it includes cleaning instructions.
Hot damn, the first time in like 5 years that someone other than me posted one of my links so that I dont have to. Maybe this is a turning point on the forum.



Oddly enough the posted link is probably among the most valuable free information posted on this forum and seems to have gone relatively unnoticed after the first 3 or 4 days of being posted.
Old 12-18-07, 11:24 PM
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regarding the seals touching solvents. since you are rebuilding, you are probably using all new seals. so just remove the seals before you start cleaning. seals like front and rear main, coolant o-rings, oil rings, anything rubber shouldn't contact solvents. SO that means after you wash with solvent it is a good idea to lightly rinse with water, and dry THOROUGHLY! you leave some trapped and it could ruin the new seals. blow gun with air works great.
Old 12-19-07, 03:50 PM
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alright thanks
Old 12-19-07, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by pistones
blow gun with air works great.
This is not recommended.
Compressed air will do more harm that good.
It'll drive water into places where you don't want to.
It's better to use something like WD-40 (WD = water dispersant) to get rid of the water.


-Ted
Old 12-19-07, 07:37 PM
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After hitting it with WD, should you just wipe off the WD, or just leave it?
Old 12-19-07, 07:42 PM
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wipe it totally clean.

I disagree about the air. IF you use the air thoroughly it cleanses all passages of everything including water. If there is a small amount of water left then it will be okay, it will be rinsed away upon startup. This is why you do an oilchange soon after first starting the rebuilds, because unless you are using surgical/electronic type clean room environment, there WILL be some contaminants in various places. Dust particles, water or oil droplets, lint from towels, etc.
Old 12-20-07, 01:17 AM
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ok air will be much easier to use than WD40.
Old 12-20-07, 02:42 PM
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after cleaning i like to use methylhydrate alcohol available anywhere you can get paint it absorbs water very well just dont leave it on the parts wet because it will absorb moisture out of the air. When your done dry it off and use a light oil on parts before storing. however kinda go overboard when i touch engine parts. Varsol you do not want to get on any rubber parts it will make them brittle and crack with extended exposures. carb cleaners work well to, it evaporates but leave a oily film on the parts and brake clean works for the worst of the grime just dont get it on paint and it strips all oil off everything it touches oil afterwards. no smoking while doing this and do it with good ventilation lots of fumes.
Old 12-20-07, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Hot damn, the first time in like 5 years that someone other than me posted one of my links so that I dont have to. Maybe this is a turning point on the forum.
I hope you knocked on wood, or something.... when you said that.

Originally Posted by RETed
It's better to use something like WD-40 (WD = water dispersant) to get rid of the water.
Well, at least your mom still thinks you are "special".

WD=Water Displacement




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