RoadRaceJosh

Skidding the rear wheels during a downshift is more likely to bend or break the straps on the clutch cover between the pressure ring and cover than break the trans. Under acceleration the straps on the clutch cover are under tension, but downshifting puts them in compression. Downshift too agressively and you bend or break the straps.

vashcloud

Well, in the middle of a drift lets say you dont want to hit something proper use of the E-Brake will allow you to stop the drift by making yourself spin out, come to a complete stop, or change the direction of the slide.

Like I said, Im good at drifting but parts knowledge and stuff I completely suck at. So don't treat me to bad on it, I am reading and learning about performance mods and other stuff I don't know about but I'm not going to know it all in a month. I just though in a site this big there would be at least a hand full of drifter's that could recommend what to mod first, were to find cheap parts, recommendations on whats reliable and whats not, and just some knowledge from their experiances. Its easy and safer to learn from another than go out and waste money and try stuff you don't know you can trust.

Thanks so far for all the help. I like the site Secretelement.com the best so far. Has anyone ever done business with SRmotorsports.com?

diagoro

wow, absolutly everything you have posted in this thread makes my head hurt. research your own ****, and stop saying you know how to drift cause you fucked up a cv joint draggin *** in your moms cammry.

rx7ofdoom

vashcloud just so you know generally people dont like know it alls especially one who dont know anything. Be modest and get what you can. Also what you call drifting a fwd car is not the same as a rwd. I think you said you had a FD before so id think you'd know the differnce.
To answer your question get a TII car raise the boost and improve your suspension and make sure to get rear toe elimators.

crassfc3s

hmm i bet hes 15 and doesnt have a car and has never really ******* drifted, the best advice i can give you?? learn to drift in a beater or dont become attached to your fc because if you were drifting an FD youd A. have the money to repair an fd thats drifted which is retarded expensive B. have some knowledge of the car. and no the ebrake is not an acceptable way to "stop" unless by stop you mean hit a tree and cease to continue moving. watch drift bible get a nice tII mod it slowly learn how to drive it, learn how to drive grip and push it to the limits of traction, understand how traction works and then try to drift in a beater

bryanfc

i suggest the old 'create a new username and stop posting bullshit' approach.

vashcloud

Ok well I'm surprized by the way some of my fellow rotory fans act. But for the record I am 18. I have been driving since I was 14 and drifting since 15.

Well I don't to "Research my own ****". This post his given me a lot of information on parts even if some of the people in it are not so helpful. Also, its Camry and its mine. ITs called a smart buy when you have to sell your car for something to hold you over until you find a new car.

I never said I knew anything. I just was defending myself on proper use of the e-brake, if you dont believe me watch formula D or read a online drifting guide. Like I said, I dont know performance parts if I did I wouldnt be wasting your time or my time. I just want some help, if you want to argue Im sure your RX-7 would listen.

Well, to answer this again no, Im 18. I started driving at 14. I currently own a Cavalier (Gift from dead relative) and a Camry. I have owned a tacoma, mustang 5.0 and finally a third generation RX-7. A. Yes I do have the money to repair it, cause im selling both of my current cars and I have a good savings. B. I do know basic stuff about cars but I am no expert. Like I said if you had cared to read the beginning, my friend did all my mods. At the time I didn't care to know about stuff so I let him to his thing as long as it would drive better. However, he and I moved away and so now Im screwed cause I dont know **** about performance mods or what exactly he had on my car. (He helped me sell my car as well, so I knew little of what was actually on the car). And I have used the E-brake to help me change direction in a drift and stop it, dont believe me then look it up. (its not a immediate stop but if you have an open area you can force your self to spin out and keep from moving in a direction that would lead to disaster.)

Look, Im not trying to prove anything, Im not saying Im a better driver than anyone, or that im the best drifter ever cause im not, nor that I know all about cars. I just wanted some help, I though I explain why so people wouldnt have to ask and would give me good information. Im not going to change my name cause there is no bullshit about it. If you dont believe me, fine I dont really care and if you do, fine dont care just tell me good information. I can understand why I would be doubted on a forum with over 60000 users which probably 3/4 actually post and care about the RX. If you want to help me then please do, I would love the help and would be in your dept. If you just want to post crap, then go somewere else, why would you waste your time posting to me when you could be with your RX-7? Thats all I go to say about that, leave it and go.

Once again, thanks so far for all the help from everyone so far and has anyone ever done business with SRmotorsports.com? They seem to be all about Mazda's and Ive seen their RX-8 in Sport Compact Car but how are their performance parts?

I Hate Ricers

Bravo, nice rebuttal. I, for one, believe you have some ability. The thing is, in california atleast, not many of the top or good guys use FC for drifting. I've seen a lot of them at amatuer events but not much at Formula D or anything.

If you have the dough, here's a few ideas to look into:

Endless rotors and calipers, front and rear. (Although I doubt you will have fade issues drifting with a TII with under 300 RWHP)

ACT or Excedy clutches should be able to handle the abuse. You will want to replace and upgrade differential, engine, and transmission mounts with the stiffer mazdaspeed units if you intend to clutch kick. I believe mazdatrix sells these.

I don't know what coil overs people are using these days, but I've heard good things about Tanabes. Seems like Teins are played out, but driving an S14 with Tein HA's felt pretty nice. Wat too stiff for street or mountain driving though..beware.

DTSS eliminators are going to be a must. Apparently, on deceleration (engine braking too), the rear wheels toe in, or point inwards, from front to rear (not camber mind you), and "increase stability of the vehicle" at the rear. So, when you accel off, or just plain juggle with the throttle, the car wants to understeer--bad. DTSS eliminators remove this effect, making the car more adjustable with the throttle, and making it more predictable over all.

The E-brake, in all honestly, should be perfectly fine. I don't know waht your budget is, but the stock unit hasn't given people problems as far as I know, provided it is adjusted right. But, if you got the dough, there's the hydraulic actuator conversion, though I doubt anybody makes one for the FC.

I would concentrate on reliability mods for now, and perhaps increasing the boost a bit. But this will be for another thread.

good luck, and sorry you had to get hassled so much.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

This thread is rapidly going downhill. Please keep it friendly and informative, or it's gone.

No more arguing or pointless replies.

vashcloud

Thanks so much for the information. Sorry but I got two questions.

1. I read that my springs need to be matched with a good set of circuit-dampers and that they need to have adjustable rebound and compression settings. How much would this cost? Were can I find them?

2. Also, I know LSD is an important player. I do know for a fact my friend replaced my stock FD LSD with some aftermarket brand. What I want to know is will I have to do that with my FC? And if I buy one without a LSD what brand should I get?

aznpoopy

do not ask 'what brand should i get'?

you really should do your own research

there is no end all be all brand name that is just 'the best.' there are pros and cons to each and people will have their own opinions.

answer to 1 - only true if you are buying springs and shocks seperately. then you need to match harder spring rates with beefier shocks that can handle whatever rates you want to run. if you don't want to deal with this, buy some coilovers from a reputable company (not Tein - reputable, not hyped up). usually 'reputable' means these companies will have a shock dyno that will show you generally how these shocks perform. if you want to learn how to read a shock dyno, google.com is great place to start.

rebound and compression settings? lol. sounds like you've been playing too much gran turismo.

a budget set up will probably run you 800 bucks or so. a good quality setup ~ 1200 or so. a stupid expensive jdm set up ~2000 or so.

btw, theres way more to suspension then just shocks and springs. get a diagram of the FC's suspension. see all those little arms and bushings? yeah, they're all gonna need to be replaced sooner or later.

answer to 2 - you need to decide what kind of LSD you want to get. there are many different types of LSDs. VLSD, helical, clutch, welded (rofl) etc. lots of terms to learn. 1.5-way. 2way. etc. you gotta hit up google.com and learn the pros and cons. for instance, a very aggressive locking differential would probably be great for drifting, but it will absolutely suck *** for daily driving.


finally,

spinning out is not the fastest way to recover from a 'emergency situation' in drifting. the fastest way to stop is to straighten out your car and hit the brakes... by brakes i mean the regular brakes. that is what you see most often when a tandem run goes bad. if you are in some other 'emergency situation' during a drift, usually that means you're going to hit a wall or a stack of tires. hey, it even happens to the pros all the time. the e-brake isn't going to save you. spinning out just means you're going to hit **** at a different angle.

p.s.

first thing to do before you buy anything

buy or download a factory service manual
&
get to work with basic maintenance on your car

I Hate Ricers

Hmm, in all hoesty, I'm more of a budget racer than I think you are. I'm not so sure about the aftermarket LSD's. I believe Kaaz makes a 2 way LSD for the FC. One popular upgrade is to put the Torsen gear type LSD out of the miata into the FC. The torsen allows for a more progression from open diff to locked up than the lesser OEM differentials that came with FCs.

I personally have had no problems with a good working clutch type LSD. This type only came in S4 rx7s though, so you would have to do some hunting if you wished to put this on an S5. A list of which FCs came with what differential can be found in Icemark's FAQ list in the stickies at the top of the bulletin board in this second gen forum. Clutch type LSD have down sides for frip driving. The LSDs act too much like a welded diff, in that they lock up on decelration, causing the car to under steer if the driver doesn't provoke oversteer first.

Now, some S5s did come with VLSD, or viscous type lsd. From what I have heard, these diffs aren't as predictable when they lock up (there is a delay when power is given and the lsd locks up) and can be less durable in the long run. Although, I have had no experience with VLSD, so don't quote me.

For the LSDs, I would try a clutch type LSD in your drifting forays first, before spending the big dough on a high quality aftermarket LSD. Like I said, I personally like the clutch type for drifting, but I'm more amatuer than many people, so you may have a different opinion. For gripping, get a better one though.

As for springs...it seems like most people prefer ultra stiff setups to speed up transitions for link drifts. Typical setup seems to be more stiff in the front than the rear for predictable understeer. This only applies to adjustable coil over setups. A good used one will be atleast 800 dollars in most cases. New should be over 1100 dollars up to 2500. If you aren't in for that much dough, a nice matched setup consisting of just springs, shocks, and sway bars (ie. non coil overs!) can be bought from racing beat. There are other combos people like, such as AGX adjustable shocks with eibach or racing beat springs. But do some reasearch on this first, I'm not that knowlegeable.

PS, i just saw Formula D in california for the first time yesterday, and I'm inspired! I got Nadine 180s autograph. cool huh?

crassfc3s

^^^ exactly what i said.... but i wouldnt suggest drifting in your only fc because youll cry when you wreck , just be straight up and stop reading online drifting **** dude NO ONE STOPS WITH THEIR EBRAKE! yes pros even tsuchiya use it to add angle or maintain a drift hell , even initiate high speed deep angle drifts but no, you do not attempt to stop with it thats retarded because guess what that will do??? nothing!

aznpoopy

nadine is a cutie

<3

too old for me though

(also too pro at motorsports)

I Hate Ricers

I think vash means using the e-brake to help rotate the rear end around to avoid collisions with other cars. If stopping in the shortest distance is reqiured, i bet he knows to use the brakes instead. This guy used to own an FD. I don't think he's gonna be too worried about wrecking an FC. But at any rate Vash, get a chassis with high mileage and plenty of dings, incase you do crash. Leave the nice bodies and frames for people with better chances of "accident avoidence"

crassfc3s

sure he owned an fd

I Hate Ricers

And I quote:

gingenhagen

how can you drift in a camry? it's impossible by the very of definition of drifting.

Schmitty

iTrader: (11)

You can "slide" with the e-brake in the snow or with crappy tires in the rain... I've even heard or people putting the plastic trays from mcdonalds or something under the rear tires and skating around on those in an empty parking lot... but no dorifto

ch0g0nda

Who cares if it's impossible according to you 'definition?'

If you think whipping around corners in a little crapbox ff is dull and boring then you've probably never done it; tis a good way to extract a little fun out of an otherwise boring car.

vashcloud

Ill shoot a video if someone wants to buy me a camera

Anyway, thanks so much "I Hate Ricers" and "aznpoopy" on all the information. Yes, I plan to buy my FC under 3000 cash. Although I have found plenty but I need one in September when I have my other cars sold.

BTW, awesome on Formula D. Making it to Formula D or a Mag is me and my friends number one goal right now. (He drives a 92-3 S14/240sx with a JDM motorswitch) He is the only other person ive met here in Asheville that knows how to drift at all. He and one more dude who is like 25 or something and owes a Miata (Met him in subway).

One would think that here in the mountains there would be more action, I mainly wish their was a "Drift Day" here. Old parking lots and unused roads aren't as safe as I wish they could be. Even with my friends watching the road for me, its hard to get just one run done without having to stop for a oncoming car.

The FD was my baby, but I had to let her go because I moved here. I asked the guy who we sold it to, to call me once and a while and let me know about her. Never heard from him again after a month. Its been almost a year since I last had a good practice. My friend lets me screw around and use his 240 a lil but you know how that is: his car not mine so be careful.

Point is, thanks for all the help. The FC will be a great car for me to practice and restart my passion for driving. After college, I will retire it of course and get a RX-8. Thats my next drift car, but thats an expensive one. I owe you guys.

BTW, once again (Sorry to keep asking) Ive seen a lot of SRmotorsports.com in mags and stuff. But how are their products? Reliable? Nice? Get what you pay for? Anyone ever done business with them?

Corbic

WOW! Stop it with the bull-**** poser crap. I have no problem calling you a 15 year old liar. First if you had owned a FD, I'd like to know how, and what you paid for insurance. Second, seeing you owned an FD, I like to know how you made it so far with out knowing slick abou spit when it comes to parts. Thrid, if you owned and sold an FD, then why do you only have 3,000 to sped? You'd either be rolling in hte 20gs you got for the car or simply have a rich momy and dady to buy you that leet s15 import.


Bottom line I have the feeling you dream of a s13 with s15 front and a sr20dett...
FAST driftza yo!! Sorry but your TII will cost you just as much if you want on in excellent condition.

As with the suggestion above, abort, restart.. get a new S/N and try again with out all the bull **** poser crap you not impresing anyone.

coldfire

iTrader: (1)

****, before this **** gets locked, lol, some good info here:
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/DRIFT/dori.html

oh, and using the e-brake in a FF car in the snow/rain, or putting food trays under the rear tires is definetly some good stupid fun (as long as no one is around to get hurt). and the same basic "principles" of drifting, like countersteering and weight transfer, still apply...
just trying to let this thread die of natural causes instead of forced ones, heh.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

We're done here.