Rtek 1.7 and other stuff like that
Rtek 1.7 and other stuff like that
Alright so im thinking of getting the rtek 1.7 chip. I'd like to know what all i need to get the most out of it. I know i need atleast 720 secondaries. Are there any other vital requirements for my car to run this? Also, what are some cheap but still good injectors.
aand if anyone else has the 1.7 in there car, could i get some input on what kind of mods you have in your car, how much boost your running, and how much whp your putting out?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. (:
aand if anyone else has the 1.7 in there car, could i get some input on what kind of mods you have in your car, how much boost your running, and how much whp your putting out?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. (:
Some clean 720cc Denso fuel injectors will work just fine. With fuel, you also need air.
You may want to look into a better flowing exhaust, a K&N drop-in filter for the stock air box, an aftermarket boost gauge, and porting the wastegate on your turbo.
Check out this link. -> FC3S Pro: From Mild to Wild Power
You may want to look into a better flowing exhaust, a K&N drop-in filter for the stock air box, an aftermarket boost gauge, and porting the wastegate on your turbo.
Check out this link. -> FC3S Pro: From Mild to Wild Power
i would just save a little bit more and get the 2.1 especially being turbo. your going to want it once you have the 1.7. its just more convenient and you have more control. its worth the money. soon they will being out with an android app. hopefully really soon.
Some clean 720cc Denso fuel injectors will work just fine. With fuel, you also need air.
You may want to look into a better flowing exhaust, a K&N drop-in filter for the stock air box, an aftermarket boost gauge, and porting the wastegate on your turbo.
Check out this link. -> FC3S Pro: From Mild to Wild Power
You may want to look into a better flowing exhaust, a K&N drop-in filter for the stock air box, an aftermarket boost gauge, and porting the wastegate on your turbo.
Check out this link. -> FC3S Pro: From Mild to Wild Power
Rtek 1.7 can run around 12psi of boost efficiently, but you will definitely want to port out your stock turbo to prevent boost from creeping. You will also want to upgrade your fuel pump as these are the weakest part in the fuel system and won't be able to handle the upgraded injectors or additional boost. I would recommend purchasing a stock FD fuel pump as it drops right in and doesn't overrun the stock FPR. Other than that you should be good.
Boost Gauge
Port Turbo
Upgrade to a free flowing exhaust (May want to perform an emissions delete along with this.
Intake
Fuel Pump
Secondaries 720cc (I recommend Denso's)
You will also want to find out what Impedance your injectors are before you purchase them. 87 and older have Low Impedance injectors and 87.5's and Newer have High Impedance. Check for a resistor box beneath the passenger side taillight area.
Alright. So, I have a walbro 255 already. And i have a 3" exaust. No cat's or anything. I have a boost gauge, and some a/f gauge, but i have yet to install it. And i just ordered one of those maf adapters for a cone filter. I don't have the resistor box, so that'd mean i have high impedance? right? As for the limits of the 1.7, i don't think i would want much more than 12 psi. I've heard of corner seals not being able to hold up to anything past 13. And i'm not looking to take any chances on me blowing anything up.
i got a set of 4 720cc injectors ill let go for $80 one of them is bad . i made 292 whp on 3 and half injectors lol . i also got a rtek 1.8 ill sell for $100 give you a pakage deal
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Alright. So, I have a walbro 255 already. And i have a 3" exaust. No cat's or anything. I have a boost gauge, and some a/f gauge, but i have yet to install it. And i just ordered one of those maf adapters for a cone filter. I don't have the resistor box, so that'd mean i have high impedance? right? As for the limits of the 1.7, i don't think i would want much more than 12 psi. I've heard of corner seals not being able to hold up to anything past 13. And i'm not looking to take any chances on me blowing anything up.
You're fine on fuel with the Walbro 255 pump, but it does overrun the stock FPR so hopefully you are regulating this some way. If you are running a 3 inch exhaust currently and hitting boost it is safe to say that your boost is creeping up. You could possibly run lean and blow up your engine. I wouldn't hit boost anymore at the very least until you get your boost gauge installed so you can at least see what amount of boost you are running. The best thing you could do now is take off your stock turbo and port out the waste gate. Many people order an S5 Turbo and manifold at this point because they are of better design. Though you will still need to port the waste gate. This is also a good time to delete the emissions systems because a lot of them are in your way to getting to the turbo to port (ACV, Air Injection Pipe, EGR, Rats nest, ect.). I would highly recommend the emissions delete.
Deleting the air box and getting a cone filter is a great idea, you could also order a 3 inch aluminum pipe in a 45 degree bend to get some better flow because the stock pipe is somewhat inefficient in an S shape. You could see an increase of boost at around 2psi.
If you do not have a Resistor box then you have High Impedance injectors NOT low Impedance.
The Rtek isn't really limiting boost beyond 12psi, the turbo is doing this. The stock turbo isn't really efficient after 12psi as the air gets too hot. Rtek 1.7 is only really necessary to max out the stock turbo (12psi) and retards timing for anything after 9psi of boost. Rtek 1.8 can be used but you won't see any real gains other than lowering the duty cycle on the injectors.
Oh, sorry. The boost gauge IS hooked up. I've seen it creep up a little bit, but nothing past 8psi. Porting it is gonna happen within the next couple of weeks along with getting a boost controller.
For the air filter, the 45 degree bend, How would i hold that up? or would it just kind of sit in the hole where the air box is currently?
And as for emissions. Theres absoloutly nothing on my car related to emissions. I bought the car with everything removed, including my idle air control, a/c and heat. :/
For the air filter, the 45 degree bend, How would i hold that up? or would it just kind of sit in the hole where the air box is currently?
And as for emissions. Theres absoloutly nothing on my car related to emissions. I bought the car with everything removed, including my idle air control, a/c and heat. :/
Oh, sorry. The boost gauge IS hooked up. I've seen it creep up a little bit, but nothing past 8psi. Porting it is gonna happen within the next couple of weeks along with getting a boost controller.
For the air filter, the 45 degree bend, How would i hold that up? or would it just kind of sit in the hole where the air box is currently?
And as for emissions. Theres absoloutly nothing on my car related to emissions. I bought the car with everything removed, including my idle air control, a/c and heat. :/
For the air filter, the 45 degree bend, How would i hold that up? or would it just kind of sit in the hole where the air box is currently?
And as for emissions. Theres absoloutly nothing on my car related to emissions. I bought the car with everything removed, including my idle air control, a/c and heat. :/
The air filter could just sit there. Maybe put a little padding or tape underneath where the AFM might make contact with the body. If your concerned with it moving you could fab up a little bracket to hold it steady.
All emissions deleted already? That's pretty nice for you as it is a little bit of work. When you replace your injectors make sure to check out your pulsation dampner. These are prone to malfunctioning and leaking fuel all over. They aren't necessary on our cars and can be deleted. If you're interested in this search the Banjo bolt mod. Also since the Air pump is deleted you may want to consider getting a dual alternator pulley and run two belts to prevent slippage.
Goodluck!
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