barney1omm

iTrader: (19)

o ya . i can only afford 1.7 / they said i would stiill need fc . becuz 1.7 dosent regulate secondarys .but bad 83 says yes it does.i do not want to run lean. and i do have 255 pump.and 2. 750 s in mail .

Roen

iTrader: (2)

Save until you get enough.

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

720cc on secondaries with no way to tune it is going to run pig rich when the secondaries run.

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

Bottom line, the 1.x series will probably need some way to control the fuel.
the 1.5 is for 550x4
the 1.7 is for 550x2+720x2
the 1.8 if for 720x4

this will pulse the injectors at a rate to make it flow at stock fuel levels.
the 1.7and 1.8s DO NOT raise the amount of fuel delivered to your engine they just make the bigger ones flow the same as stock. If you plan on delivering more fuel then stock you WILL NEED a fuel controller. (safc, emanage etc)

ALL MODLES OF THE RTEK HAVE A FCD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you have any doubts go here, http://digitaltuning.com/index.php?p...age=1&ecu=S4T2

I hope this clears up any confusion

barney1omm

iTrader: (19)

2.1 it is ........ wife gonna kill me....scare s #@#@ out of her . and broke .o no

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

Right, but since fuel is relative to boost pressure wouldn't the ECU pulse the injectors to provide enough fuel for the elevated boost level the car is running?

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

Hmmm, I think I'll go ask that in the Rtek section. I know it retards the timing above10(?)psi.

And for the O P

the 2.1 will be an excellent choice, run whatever injectors you have now, then upgrade them as needed and then just edit with pocketlogger. Remember to be good until you get a wideband. The Plx one is like $100 bucks, it doesn't have an external gauge, but you can buy one. But its great because you can just plug it right in to your Rtek and read and log AFRs that way.

barney1omm

iTrader: (19)

i think ill try 1.7 and turn b c. back down to 10 ish in 3 rd / 8 ish in 2 nd /150 k on engine . then i can by food this month 4 the family . ill upgrade later if needed. speed limits 35 in most places;:} thanks alot .i let u no.................10mm

solpower

just from looking at the pictures on the site that looks just like a socket and chip used for chipping honda ecus. . are they the same?

slpin

iTrader: (9)

no
on the stock ecu, fuel is managed by the afm
pressure sensor does timing

you "fix" the timing with the rtek but you do not fix the fuel

the dude who claim he does 300whp with a rtek 1.7 and walbro is an idiot
dont listen to him
he is bad for you
listen to eminem
it is better for you
let your kids listen to him
that is better for your whole family
even for your mother

if a retard claims rtek changes the fuel map...

i guess he thinks he knows better than pocketlogger, the company that built, designed, and sells the rtek...

get real supporting mods, or don't modify it... at all.


yes. you are an idiot and i am calling you out.

stock apex seals can't do 300wheel? rtek changing fuel?
claiming you do 14psi on a t04e on a stock fuel system?
inability to differentiate the different types of T04Es?

Your statement is as retarded as saying that you can run 800hp on gasoline.

Hell, if you are *so* sure your setup is safe... Run it in overdrive at WOT up a hill.... I will do the same in mine... and I will gladly use MY tow cables to get you to the top of the hill half way thru it. After all, like all americans, I have sympathy for people with mental challenges...

barney1omm

iTrader: (19)

pocket logger said .the 1.7 will compensate for the 750 s ...witch i hope is penty of fuel .with 255 pump to run 11 psi.........10mm

Roen

iTrader: (2)

by compensate, it means that it will lower fuel flow on the 750's so it acts like stock 550's. You also have no other fuel adjustment, so I hope the stock map with 750's and walbro's will be enough.

As another side effect, expect gas mileage to suffer as well.

If you're worried about cost, you realize that this way will be cheaper now, but more expensive over the long run?

barney1omm

iTrader: (19)

why would you need 750 s .then? and are sayin the 2. 1 gives u better mpg??if not enough fuel ill get 2. 1 or a safc. thx "}10mm

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

The 750s will run a little rich. Which should be a help. This is only rich because the Rtek 1.7 1.8 run 720s
The reason for running the 720s is so you can compensate WITH another device, SAFC, E manage ETC.

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

Barney (i hope 10mm is a caliber)

If you don't have anything else right now. ie now 720, no safc, or the like. Get the 2.1. You will have an FCD built in. Usining stock injectors you can ramp up the amount of fuel you have and your car will run quite well. I ran 10psi on my 87 stock turbo, RB full exhaust, and it ran just fine with the stock 550s. Later you can upgrade secondarys to 720s for a little "safty" and then the primaries, etc.

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

thats all you want. Only 15 PSI!!!! LOL very Humble!!!!!!

*prillaman*

i have 12 psi now and want higher but 15 will work man i didnt think that would be a problem

Roen

iTrader: (2)

This is what happens when you buy an Rtek 2.0 or 2.1

You swap the ECU with the stock ECU, then you bring your car to a dyno or street tuner and have them adjust the fuel and timing maps on the ECU.

This is what happens when you buy an Rtek 1.5, 1.7 or 1.8

You swap the ECU with the stock ECU.

That's it, there's no tuning because the chip is not adjustable. This is not very optimal.

FURTHERMORE, if you buy the 1.7 or 1.8 and have 720's in the injectors, the Rtek will make the 720's flow like 550's. You cannot change this. You need to buy another sort of fuel controller like an S-AFC or something, which is even more money.

If you have not bought anything, buy the Rtek 2.0 or 2.1 for the S4 TII. You will save yourself a lot of headaches.

But if you don't want to listen to us, it's your money and your car. I think we've made the differences between the ECU pretty clear by now.

smokie

iTrader: (5)

if you dont have the money for microtech or haltek go with the rtek 1.7 or 1.8 im running that set up for now and im boosting at 15psi with no issues i also recomend going to pocketlogger.com and do research so that you can have the right set up.....its decent for the money...and then later on when you want more out of your car get a haltek...right now there is a rotary specific haltek just plug and play for our cars im going to get it pretty soon

barney1omm

iTrader: (19)

yes i have a. s and w 10 mm stainless ............is there alot of diff. between 12 and 15 psi. on hp??also roen.... smokie says his running great,,, but is he getting npenty of fuel????????????????????????????//wind ban????checkout>????

Roen

iTrader: (2)

Running decently and running optimally are two different things. You can make the same amount of power in both situations, but the car that's running decently will be eating a lot more gas than the car that's running optimally.

bad 83

iTrader: (3)

That's truly runny. You double talked yourself three times in that statement, and your calling me the idiot? Funny, real funny. BTW, I have been SAFELY running my setup for 2 1/2 years. It has been driven through 5 states. But, apparently you know my car better than RotorSports Racing. I tell Bryan some punk in Cali knows better than him. I mean he's only been building and tuning Rotarys since 1983. What do I know?

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

i was thinking the same thing what a dick

im gonna get a rtek 2.1 once i get a rebuilt turbo.

smokie

iTrader: (5)

actually its running great however since i ported the motor and havent reflashed the ecu its running really rich so im stuck between getting it reflashed, getting the rtek 2.1 or a haltek

barney1omm

iTrader: (19)

i got my intak off , to put injectors in,should i port .or just clean up real good .light bore ???