I finally discovered what seized my engine, after cleaning off the offending rotor I found that the seal (which had worn to the limit) got wedged between the edge of the rotor and the exhaust port, it seems that the seals still has proper clearance, it's the lip that was created that I'm worried about. will this cause the seal to be unstable? any other adverse effects?

edit: I thought I should also mention that this is a n/a s5 engine, and is going to be a completely stock setup, so no worrys about high stress on the engine. I also I plan to use 2-piece seals, so they would probably be less affected by the lip.


this pic shows the two edges of the apex in relation, a bit blurry, but notice the one on the right is curved.

 

I think you will need an expert to tell you that. Did you measure the distance between the two edges? is it the same all the way across?

to my untrained eye, it looks fine, but I really have no idea. I think that just a picture alone can't really tell you, you need precise measuring equipment.

 

I dunno but i'd be safe and just get a new rotor.

 

and the next pic
the upper lip is the one that is bent

 

this one shows the damage up to the point where the small triagular part of the seal is. The triangluar one didn't do any damage
(bottom lip is the damaged one, triangluar seal is fits in far right)

 

That rotor is no good. It looks like one end is bent from an object hitting it. If you re-use it, it's going to bind unless you can have it machined out to spec. I doubt there are shops that can do that unless you live near a rotary specialty shop. It's cheaper to get another than to have it machined. They're not that expensive.

 

boosted1205, read my first post. and I consider 500$ for a new rotor expensive

 

Yup that did it alright.I don't think that rotor is reusable but im no expert.Now you can get some Racing Beat Race Rotors.

 

PM RETed and/or RotaryResurrection and ask them to look at this thread...

 

allready asked ted to look at it (through chat)
..sending pm to RR..

 

I would not use it.

Maybe for a spare junker motor.

But thats me. Maybe it is good.

 

MEASURE MEASURE MEASURE

 

measure what?
its obvious by the first picture that the groove is perfect except the top 4mm of the right side, which is obviously curved away thus making the opening larger on top.

 

be willing to sell that rotor for cheap?

 

sure, $75 shipped

 

Using rotors that have slot wear can cause seals (even 2pc seals) to weaken and split along their length. That rotor is useless unless you mill it out to 3mm...the seal must be supported all the way to the edge.

 

Through your picture's you cant tell that much. To you its obvoius becasue you have the real deal in front of you. If you already know its curved why even ask if it can be used? I said measure becasue it will tell the full story, like how much its curved out, if the rotor can be milled to 3mm.

 

I agree with Kevin (RotaryErection) that you should think about milling out the rotors (Both) and going to 3mm apex seals. This should clean up the damaged area and allow you to make some aditional modifications later on (If you want to.) If you decide to mill the rotors make sure to at least do a street port on the motor while it is torn down. Even if you don't want to keep the car stock this will allow you to stay within the emissions laws and add value to your car for resale.
This is almost a freebe if you can do the work yourself.

 

used decent rotors dont cost 500$ each.

 

Thanks for the opinions.
milling to 3mm is not an option, this is going to be a 100% stock setup. - besides, using 3mm on a n/a setup is very pointless - I'm going to have someone help me hammer the groove back into place (I've been told by other experienced guys that this is works fine, especially in n/a engines) and see how it looks, if it still looks like crap, I'll get a new rotor.

 

It dosent look like it will be using any 2mm apex seals anytime soon, but if you mill it to 3mm you should be able to use it again. Unless there is something else damaged on the rotor.

 

going to 3mm on NA motors is near pointless as far as power goes. However, doing it to save rotors that would otherwise have to be replaced is perfectly acceptable.

Do whatever you want, though.

What is your deal with "keeping the engine 100% stock"? Stock rebuilds and engines suck, fwiw. I'd hate to say I went to the trouble of a rebuild and install for a stock engine.

 

nah 75 is too rich for my blood

 

It's fugged. Plan B

-Robert

 

>What is your deal with "keeping the engine 100% stock"? Stock rebuilds and engines suck, fwiw. I'd hate to say I went to the trouble of a rebuild and install for a stock engine.


It's called 'selling points' unmodified rebuilt engines around here pull a lot more money for resale than modified engines. It doesn't matter what kind of modifications (reliability, safety etc. doesn't matter). Complete stock setup's sell higher. I might mildly port the engine, and I bought pineapples aux-port sleeves but that is about it. I have no problem with these small modifications, b/c a test drive wouldn't show the change. Using 3mm seals would be a little more obvious, harder starting especially is not what I would like to see.

Going through a rebuild to put that on the for sale sign that it has a recently rebuilt motor is well worth the $600 it cost to do the rebuild.

thanks for the help


p.s. 89rxheaven: I was kidding. I'm not going to sell it, I'd keep it for demo's.