How damaging is it to take your rotary 1k into the red?
that damn buzzer doesnt go off in time when Im not paying attention and I have caught myself 2 times sitting at about 8100rpm in my turbo 2....

 

probably not doing to much...

it's pretty pointless though there is no power up there unless you have major mods.

 

Yeah, its all 4-7 with my car the way it is now, but I just wanted to make sure that I hadnt done like the UNSPEAKABLE to my engine...

BTW, what kinda oil pressure you guys getting at idle...

 

My car has had PMS today. It was idling at 2000-1800 jumping, I reset ecu, then It was 1500-1400 then it was 1000-800 and after 3 ecu resets Im back to a 750rpm idle!

YAY FOR ME! Persistance pays off in this case...

 

I imagine that 8000rpm won't do it any real damage since that is the stock redline of the non-turbos, and it's basically the same engine. The turbo totally chokes the airflow up there however, so you don't get any decent power.

 

Actually S4 n/as redline is 7K, only S5 n/as are 8K. If only I had another 1K rpms.

 

Doesnt hurt anything really, you just have no power so theres no real point of hearing that buzzer we all love to hear for more than a few seconds

 

At 7800 rpms, the ECU cuts fuel to the rear rotor, which can prove somewhat dangerous. Your Tach might not be completely accurate, but the fuel cut will be at that rpm.

 

Is that fuel cut without a FCD because I have an FCD, or is that, oh **** cant stop it the rotor is going to turn off no matter what?

 

I hit 8k in my s4 NA almost daily with no evidence (yet) of any harm from it.

 

Not much happens until you get over 8500 or so, at which point bearings start going, rotors hit housings, etc.

 

My "Old" n/a would zip up to 7500 with ease, but My T2 seems like it would much rather be shifted at 6000. I would have thought that 8000 in a T2 would be very bad. Is it the stock porting that chokes the T2 after 6k? would a straight through turbo back exhaust free up the 6-7k range?

 

I've driven a basically stock TII (cone air filter and some exhaust work done.. but I'm not sure what) .. 7PSI of boost

Anyways, The car zipped up to the redline so quick that I shifted at around 7800, car was still making tons of power up there, so I'd say a good exhaust would free up 6-7k pretty well.

My stupid redline buzzer goes off allready at like 6200, I gotta fix that, its annoying.

 

The stock tach is inaccurate. I hear my redline buzzer in my '91 vert (N/A) at 8K - which also happens to be redline, so I know that the tach is reading too low.

Also, on my AE I can watch my haltech readout and I can see that the tach is off from the what the data screen says (stock reads too high).


Just a thought for you kids. Now play nicely.

 

I shift at around 7k.. when normal driving i'm always shifting at 4-4500k, just to make sure those secondary's get used, lol

I get about 19mpg the way i drive (shift always at 4-4500) and redline in 3rd.. about 4-8 times a day. Gotta make sure she's ALIVE!

I also feed my baby castrol 20w50 every 2000k miles.. i'm VERY religious with oil and fluid checks/changes... Maybe that's why my old motor lasted to 208,000... and still runs! (just smokes alot, lol_

-Markus

 

I doubt its the stock porting causing the choke. Try freeing up the exhaust.

 

That exists FCD or no FCD. The rpm fuel cut is caused by the tach input, whereas the boost fuel cut is caused by the pressure sensor voltage.

those who say it doesn't exist.... try flooring you car in first and see when the fuel cuts. Then you'll know how inaccurate the stock tach is.

 

Mines off about 100RPM at idle....

 

I shift at about 7800 at the track...

 

Me too. I just wish I had a S5 motor so I could make more power up there.