I've installed Racing Beats complete road race exhaust but I cant seem to get my actuators to work. I'm guessing not enough exhaust back pressure from the header. Anyone know of any tricks or tips i should try. They're not seized. They definitely open and close manually no problem. I know the ac &cv have nothing to do with it but I figure any information would help diagnose the issue. I elected not to remove the air pump. the acv is still intact. i did way with the split air pipe and left the rubber hose that goes from the lim to the split air pipe unplugged.

I'm sure this has been covered time and time again but I can not find an answer to my actuator problem that doesn't involve switching to an air pump activation. Which I've seen the write ups for, but it's still too confusing for the likes of me

 

the back pressure tube on the header itself is hooked up on the actuators where the stock cat did yes?

 

The S4 RB header has no provisions for the aux port actuators, only the split air pipe (which connects to either the stock cats or the RB presilencer) can actuate the ports. Reinstall the split air pipe and the ports should work once again. I had a RB header/presilencer on my old S4 na and had no issues with getting the ports to work with the split air pipe installed correctly, even with completely removed emissions (no air pump/egr/ratsnest)

 

To be clear, this is the system I have installed: Road Race Exhaust System for 86-88 RX-7 Non-turbo - Racing Beat

The pre-silencer i have has no place for the split air pipe to connect. The header I have has a pressure tube that hooks up to the hardline where the actuators go.

I plugged up the hose that goes from the lim to the split air pipe but still no luck

 

Update: I dabbed a bit a grease on the actuator rods to see if they worked during a spirited drive. They didn't. So I used a bit of compressed air to check if the rods would recede. They did.

I'm thinking two things. Maybe the vacuum line on the used headers i bought are clogged and they need to be cleared. That, OOOOR, the actuators do work but are a bit stiff and hence they need MORE back pressure to activate. Is the latter theory a common problem? I thought they either worked or they didn't. I would really appreciate any input

So as of now, I'm going to blow out the vacuum line on the header once I get the chance and use aaroncakes method to free up the actuators some more. Wish me luck

 

I highly recommend the airpump aux port activation - the exhaust method just isn't reliable..

Basically: Remove ACV, connect airpump output to a T, put a valve on one end and step down to the vacuum hose size for the other, connect the small end to the aux nipple, adjust the valve so that the aux ports open around 3800RPMs.

Search the forums for my username's posts and you should see the thread with a picture of the T/valve/step downs. Just don't use that awful fake-stainless steel water hose.

 

Hmm... Per your PM, I couldn't find the airpump activation pictures I would've sworn I'd posted..

So, here they are! Please note, again, do NOT use that fake stainless steel hose that home depot sells for toilets - it will eventually melt. (Though the nylon barb/adapter that connected it to the airpump outlet hose has held up wonderfully)

You may have to play around with the sizes a bit, I wound up having to take the adjustment handle out of the valve to get the correct amount of pressure to bleed off of mine when I switched to a better (and coincidentally bigger) hose than the home depot one.

keywords to find this post again: air pump 5th 6th aux ports analog

 

Thanks man!

Here's what I picked up

I figured a fuel line should be pretty heat resistant I'll cut it to size tomorrow and get it installed.

 

Awesome! Keep us posted! ^_^