RHD swap... Complete
Thanks! But i only use the death **** when i go to meets and things like that. Its fine to drive with, but i have another one i made for daily use and hard driving... I'll get picks up that one up later. I'm making the E-brake handle now... to spike, or not to spike?!?!?
it turned out great, nice to see u finished your swap. props
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Portland, Oregon
So my fiance and I were reading through the thread and it's a pretty decent job. I'm not so sure about the front hood color though. I personally can't decide what to do about that myself. Should I keep the hood the same color as the body or have it black? Once that's done, color the lights too or no? As for your shift ****, I think it's...different. However, I think there should totally be a quick release button in case of "emergency" and some extra weight in the fist would be handy. Anyway, good job again. It looks really good.
Spike... Definitely... 'Least then it's matching for meets, and all.
I agree with the 'Quick-Release' idea... Could come in handy, in the event of a car-jacking. Of course, that's why I keep my Sig in the car
No pics, yet?
I agree with the 'Quick-Release' idea... Could come in handy, in the event of a car-jacking. Of course, that's why I keep my Sig in the car
No pics, yet?
Atleast someone else that knows the importance of quality. I've had my 226N/T (Navy w/ the Tactical Mods) since I was in the Army..
LOL. Not like I can keep my HK416, with me
BWAHAHAHAH!!!! You imagine getting pulled with THAT puppy!?? (pic of mine is my profile pic)
LOL. Not like I can keep my HK416, with me
BWAHAHAHAH!!!! You imagine getting pulled with THAT puppy!?? (pic of mine is my profile pic)
It's different. It's cool. It's the difference between looking to your left and seeing a driver instead of a passenger. Functionallity? The same. Some states have special requirements for you to drive one, but for those that do, it's pretty awesome.
The obvious answer to your question - Why the hell not?
The obvious answer to your question - Why the hell not?
^ it came out cheaper for me to do the RHD swap.
I got the car with no motor, tranny, wiring, radiaitor, coils, ect... I priced it out, and it came out much cheaper to buy a front clip which has EVERYTHING you will ever need.
I got the car with no motor, tranny, wiring, radiaitor, coils, ect... I priced it out, and it came out much cheaper to buy a front clip which has EVERYTHING you will ever need.
Well, here's a few new pics and updates.
Swapped out the wheels for some RAYS Gram Lights. 17x8 and only weight 17lbs! And i don't need adapters to fit them. So I lost A LOT of rotating mass and the car feels much better with these lighter weight wheels.
Here's where I'm injecting my water/meth. I also moved from a 50/50 mix to a 70 meth/30 water mix. This is still all with zero tuning. I now have an SAFC NEO installed and will be doing some tuning. The car runs strong as is. But i know it will be better with some tuning. I was just seeing what the stock ECU can handle...And it handles a lot.
Directly after the turbo:
Entrance of the stock top mount:
I fixed the breaking up problem and the car now holds 10psi all the way to 7k. The intake was to restrictive. So during everyday driving I have a regular filter on there. But when i'm going to push it, I swap A velocity stack on there. I also changed to a N390 AFM. Which is from the 13b-RE Cosmo engine. It's a direct swap but will need some tuning to run properly. The spring in the AFM cone is of a different pressure and will send a different signal for adjustments to the ECU. This is the reason i got the NEO. The AFM is bigger and I'm **guessing** that it flows much better. The car feels to have more low end and faster spool up with it. But this is just a guess. I havn't had it on a dyno yet to see...
And FINALLY got around to fixing the roof!!! The old plexi glass one cracked easily and warped bad in the heat. I also used window sealer to seal it so it was not removable. This time i used a real nice lexan and cut it to shape. Then drilled 58 holes to use counter suck screws so they would sit flush with the lexan. And lined the outside of the lexan with a weather stripping that only sticks on one side. Making this roof removable. It only takes about a minute to remove all 58 screws with the acorn nuts on the opposite side.
There's 8 bolts missing in these two pics. I lost a few and have a new pack on order. You can see where there's missing on the back row.
Swapped out the wheels for some RAYS Gram Lights. 17x8 and only weight 17lbs! And i don't need adapters to fit them. So I lost A LOT of rotating mass and the car feels much better with these lighter weight wheels.
Here's where I'm injecting my water/meth. I also moved from a 50/50 mix to a 70 meth/30 water mix. This is still all with zero tuning. I now have an SAFC NEO installed and will be doing some tuning. The car runs strong as is. But i know it will be better with some tuning. I was just seeing what the stock ECU can handle...And it handles a lot.
Directly after the turbo:
Entrance of the stock top mount:
I fixed the breaking up problem and the car now holds 10psi all the way to 7k. The intake was to restrictive. So during everyday driving I have a regular filter on there. But when i'm going to push it, I swap A velocity stack on there. I also changed to a N390 AFM. Which is from the 13b-RE Cosmo engine. It's a direct swap but will need some tuning to run properly. The spring in the AFM cone is of a different pressure and will send a different signal for adjustments to the ECU. This is the reason i got the NEO. The AFM is bigger and I'm **guessing** that it flows much better. The car feels to have more low end and faster spool up with it. But this is just a guess. I havn't had it on a dyno yet to see...
And FINALLY got around to fixing the roof!!! The old plexi glass one cracked easily and warped bad in the heat. I also used window sealer to seal it so it was not removable. This time i used a real nice lexan and cut it to shape. Then drilled 58 holes to use counter suck screws so they would sit flush with the lexan. And lined the outside of the lexan with a weather stripping that only sticks on one side. Making this roof removable. It only takes about a minute to remove all 58 screws with the acorn nuts on the opposite side.
There's 8 bolts missing in these two pics. I lost a few and have a new pack on order. You can see where there's missing on the back row.
I also re-did the roof patch. I kinda messed it up last time because i was using the wrong welding wire and rushed it.
Here's the new patch before i did the new lexan roof:
Here's the new patch before i did the new lexan roof:
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,881
Likes: 3
From: Jacksonville, Tampa & Tallahassee
Awesome work!
Any pics of the velocity stack setup? Have you noticed any performance gains from either the post turbo injection nozzel or change in the mixture?
The lexan roof looks good have you considered any tinting for it? Oh, and I demand a video of sub 1minute removal ! lol
Any pics of the velocity stack setup? Have you noticed any performance gains from either the post turbo injection nozzel or change in the mixture?
The lexan roof looks good have you considered any tinting for it? Oh, and I demand a video of sub 1minute removal ! lol
updates once again...
This is how you get rid of wheels hop for 6k+ launches!!!
Even the Mazda competition mount sucks. So what i did was take my factory one. Which was broken of course. Sand blast it clean then trim off the front piece. Then weld in steel bracing to make i truly stiff and UN-BREAKABLE!!!
This is how you get rid of wheels hop for 6k+ launches!!!
Even the Mazda competition mount sucks. So what i did was take my factory one. Which was broken of course. Sand blast it clean then trim off the front piece. Then weld in steel bracing to make i truly stiff and UN-BREAKABLE!!!
I also did this because i swapped out my tired old NA diff for the world famous TII s4 diff. S4 diffs, are the strongest of all Mazda factory rear ends. Then added soil rear diff mounts and a pinion snubber. Good bye wheel hop...
I also added soild motor mounts and tranny mounts. but didn't take any pics...
I also added soild motor mounts and tranny mounts. but didn't take any pics...
Ive seen a few RHD parts pop up now and then on craigslist, dam your car is making me want to do it just for the novelty of it. Our cars are already not so common on the road, so a RHD swap would be that much more unique.
Good job on the diff mounts, Id love to go that route myself, but i have a camber link which tilts the subframe, so it wouldnt work with your front modded mount, but perhaps those solid rear bushings would do the trick. The subframe bracket is also a common place to break but yours shouldnt be a problem with the pinion snubber.
Good job on the diff mounts, Id love to go that route myself, but i have a camber link which tilts the subframe, so it wouldnt work with your front modded mount, but perhaps those solid rear bushings would do the trick. The subframe bracket is also a common place to break but yours shouldnt be a problem with the pinion snubber.
I have the camber link also which i made. It's just there for looks now i guess, lol... The neg. camber is back in full effect. So I'm gonna have to make some independent adjustment ones now to get rid of it.