RHD swap... Complete
I finally put a boost gauge in the car so i can step on the gas to see what it has. i didnt want to do this without a gauge incase of overboosting and breaking the motor.
the car feels awesome even at half and 3/4 throttle. climbs to 8psi very quickly and holds there. i didnt full throttle yet because im going to put a wideband on it just to make sure everything is OK. it came with a pre tuned Pan-Speed ECU and i dont know what adjustments have been made. along with my own upgrades. i just want to make sure everything is running good.
there is a dyno day down the street from me on the 20th. i might put it on there to see what it does...
the car feels awesome even at half and 3/4 throttle. climbs to 8psi very quickly and holds there. i didnt full throttle yet because im going to put a wideband on it just to make sure everything is OK. it came with a pre tuned Pan-Speed ECU and i dont know what adjustments have been made. along with my own upgrades. i just want to make sure everything is running good.
there is a dyno day down the street from me on the 20th. i might put it on there to see what it does...
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you could always learn. the welding needed for this swap is pretty basic and could be done with a cheap flux core welder from home depot. it just would take more clean up and grinding to look nice. but, would work just fine...
welding is actually very easy. Pick up a cheap hobart or miller flux core welder and you and do what this guy did. You won't be able to weld aluminum but you can usually get a gas hookup for it and then make nice clean MIG welds.
i stated that theres 3 ways to do this.
1. swap the entire firewall
2. cut and weld the sections you want (what i did)
3. drill holes and mount it all
theres 2 reasons i didnt just drill the holes. one being that the clutch master hole isnt just a hole. it has a lip around it to place it correctly. would of been way to hard to duplicate that lip. and two, i ******* SUCK at drilling holes. I never get them aligned perfect, lol... but, I am a certified welder and have a lot of practice in cutting and matching peices of metal. so for me, it was easier. for someone else, maybe the other routes would have been better.
1. swap the entire firewall
2. cut and weld the sections you want (what i did)
3. drill holes and mount it all
theres 2 reasons i didnt just drill the holes. one being that the clutch master hole isnt just a hole. it has a lip around it to place it correctly. would of been way to hard to duplicate that lip. and two, i ******* SUCK at drilling holes. I never get them aligned perfect, lol... but, I am a certified welder and have a lot of practice in cutting and matching peices of metal. so for me, it was easier. for someone else, maybe the other routes would have been better.
This Flesh A Tomb
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: CA
you could cut out the VIN's from a junk yard car. and you would need the title from them also. and weld in all the VIN's into your RHD drive and as long as you have that title, it would like like you just converted over. the DMV would never know the difference. but you have to make sure you get that title and that car gets cruched. or else you could have some legal problems on your hand. its kinda like automobile identity theft...
but i dont know about Canada laws... thats what you could do here. Plus in Florida, theres absolutley no inspections what so ever.
but i dont know about Canada laws... thats what you could do here. Plus in Florida, theres absolutley no inspections what so ever.
because isnt this what they do to stolen cars?
I got this lip from rob xx 7 on here... looks even better in person.
(actually my GF suprised me with it on my B-day)
and i added a FC1000 ignition (like MSD6a, mounted where the brake booster originally was) and fixed the rust in the sunroof area. did a little more here and there, like more stainless lines in the engine bay, nothing special. i got the AI system running and the car feels MUCH faster than i had antisipated. im loving it!
(actually my GF suprised me with it on my B-day)
and i added a FC1000 ignition (like MSD6a, mounted where the brake booster originally was) and fixed the rust in the sunroof area. did a little more here and there, like more stainless lines in the engine bay, nothing special. i got the AI system running and the car feels MUCH faster than i had antisipated. im loving it!
you cant see it, but i finally dropped the heavy *** USDM bumper brace and swapped it for the much lighter JDM one with the JDM yellow fogs.
I still plan to add RE-amamiya mirrors and slightly wider front fenders. I have the TII hood, but i been rocking it with no hood right now. im bringing the 60's muscle back with no hood Japan style...lol
I still plan to add RE-amamiya mirrors and slightly wider front fenders. I have the TII hood, but i been rocking it with no hood right now. im bringing the 60's muscle back with no hood Japan style...lol
This has always been my first upgrade. but the stock fan cools better than most electric fans i have used, including the e-fan (wich draws HUGE amounts of power). Plus on this car, im trying to keep it as stock as possible under the hood. Just cleaning it up with basic upgrades. Im not going to add a front mount or bigger turbo, or anything like that. just clean and simple for this one.
When people talk about the E-fan. 9 times out of 10 they are refering to the Ford Taurus Electric fan. it pulls over 3000cfm on the high setting. wich is almost twice most aftermarket fans. but if not wired with skill, it will eat batteries like a bridgeport eats gas...
