Here is the revised wire diagram for my e-fan...This will come on low at 190 and high at 207 or when the A/C swtich is turn on!

 

How are you gonna get that DPDT relay to differentiate between the high and low speed contacts? One pair of contacts is normally open, and the other is normally closed?

Also, are you routing that red wire around the fan relay, or through it? Around it, and your DPDT relay will be energized all the time...

 

the SPST (not DPDT) relay is 20A in the Normally closed position-this controls the low speed-and the 50A is in the Normally open position-this controls the high speed...when energized the NC switches to the NO--this is so high and low won't be on at the same time(single pull-single throw-it just has two contacts-one open, one closed)...

the pink wire is just connecting where the fan used to be...I'm taking the old broken electric pusher fan out jumpering the connection where it used to be and using that circuit to energize the fan speed control relay.

 

I'd look at one possible trap.
If the manual switch is left on accidently, you will run down the battery.

Here's an example:
You park the car, the stat is closed for 15 seconds after you jump out while the radiator cools, you forget the manual switch is closed.

To fix, get the source 12 v for the manual switch from the main (IG2) relay & include a diode so it won't backfeed.

 

Thanks for the idea...but the switch is only in case the thermostat fails.

Is a diode that important...how much backfeed could there possibly be?

 

If the switch is powered directly from IG2 (no diode) & is closed, the motor won't shut off until the stat opens.

That's why some power the fan relay from IG2.
Then everything shuts off with the key.

I like your key off cool down arrangement.
I had my NA wired like that.

 

I don't quite understand what u mean?

 

Like this:

 

I got that...I just meant I didn't understand this---"If the switch is powered directly from IG2 (no diode) & is closed, the motor won't shut off until the stat opens."

 

IG2 also runs the motor.
If the emergency switch is accidentally closed & the stat is closed, the battery is connected to IG2 behind the ignition switch, even with the key off.
The diode blocks that (remote) possibility.

 

It's no big deal - kind of like the NA equivalent of a turbo timer.

 

Ok I See Said The Blind Man!

 

SO what size diode do you think need to go there?

 

I know this isnt DIY and you actually have to spend money on it but ill post the link anyway. Heres the way I did it.
1 junkyard e-fan rated at 2100 cfm ($10)
1 derale 16738 (http://www.derale.com/electricfanaccess.shtml) ($25 usps priority shipped)

I figure you make up for the cost of the unit in time saved, it took me maybe 20 minutes total to do a clean wiring job and mount the fan.

Edit: Link to the controller on summit http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...&Ntt=der-16738

 

I figured I would need 5-10W diode...
Well I got the low speed hooked up and running...just need to run the wiring for the high speed...Still need to fine tune the thermostat...I'll post pics and show ya'll everything when done!
thanks