Don't believe everything you hear.

FB01-26-230 Ball, Pillow-RR Lower Arm
FB01-26-250 Rubber, Seal-RR Lower Arm

Hot_Dog
90 RX7 GXL

Just looked it up in the trusty parts fiche. THAT IS NOT THE DTSS BUSHING. That is the lower rear bushing, the DTSS is in front at about the middle.

You're right, that was the wrong p/n. Here's the right number. The DTSS bushings are in the hub, not the trailing arm. I've bought all these bushings several years ago from Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda. Like I wrote earlier, they are all available from Mazda unless Mazda discontinued them.

FB01-49-130 Hub (R), Toe Control - Outer
FB01-49-140 Hub (L), Toe Control - Outer

Interesting. How hard is it to replace them with new stock ones?

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/rrsteer.htm :"Those OEM bushings, as far as we know, are still not available by themselves, and require purchasing the entire rear carrier assembly. The Rear Steer Eliminator Bushing Set we offer replaces the OEM compliant bushings with a delrin / steel sleeve combination. This eliminates the rear steer, if that is what you want, and / or saves a ton of $$ if your OEM bushings are worn out."

You'd think that Mazdatrix would know, but maybe not.

Either way the point about new tire technology and higher grip levels causing the system paramaters to change, and the fact that race cars don't use anything like this are still valid.

I think it was done more because everyone was doing it at the time and it was a cool, desirable feature to have. Cars don't come with this sort of system anymore AFAIK.

The toe control bushing consists of inner and outer steel sleeves that are bound together with rubber within the annular region. The rubber binder however is not continous so as allow the bushing to have some compliance. Essentially, the rubber binds the sleeves at four equally spaced positions, i.e., top bottom, lhs and rhs. The problem that I had was that the rubber deteriorated and my rear wheel toe was all over the place. The car reacted like it had loose tie rod ends. The bushings aren't hard to rermove with a hydraulic press and an appropriately sized rod. I used a deep well socket that was slightly smaller than the bushing's OD. When I bought my bushings, I asked Ray Crowe (PM Malloy Mazda) if sells many of these, and told me that he "sells these bushings all the time". I don't know what MT is talking about. Not to knock MT, but sometimes you have to beware of some Mazda dealers. As an example, I once tried to buy an exhaust manifold stud from a Mazda parts dealer, and the guy tells me that Mazda dosen't sell the studs seperately, you need to buy a new exhaust manifold to get the studs. This is complete BS!

So it should be about as hard as pressing in new DTSS eliminator bushings then? I've done that and it's not that hard to do. You don't even need to take the hubs off or use a press. A long bolt (or some threaded rod), some nuts, washers and some appropriately sized sockets work pretty well.

the fc rear suspension is actually quite a good design, in several different ways.

1. it had the toe control with a bushing, no controllers, no links, no moving parts.

2. its got the 2 extra links (the little dogbone, and the diagonal link) which give the semi trailing arm a better camber toe curve, than its competition, like say a bmw

3. its got a low trunk floor, the fd or miata suspension takes up much more room

It was too difficult a job. I had the whole rear suspension apart when I did mine. I suppose its possible to remove/install the bushings with the hubs on car, but I really don't see the logic of struggling when trying to do the job.

The FC rear suspension appears to be a good design. The only problem I'm having with the suspension is that the control links -- the links that connect trailing arm to undercarrige -- are always wearing out.

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=19856

I did it this way, I suspect that any additional effort from having it on the car is more than offset by the lower amount of dissassembly required.

Well, whatever works best for you. I've installed a set or two of DTSS eliminator bushing before, and I never needed to press them into the hub. Actually, they slid in quite easily just with hand force.

Keep trying; those part numbers are for the entire hubs. The pair costs $730 from Mazda Motorsports.