I always like to change out the throw-out release bearing and the pilot bearing + seal.


-Ted

 

I believe the ACT clutch kits come with both those bearings, but the seal I'd have to order.

 

you want something that could hold up to your amazing 136 lbs of torque till the turbo drivetrain?
go to autozone and buy the cheapest clutch kit you can!

 

Don't be hating. If you've read this thread, you'd understand.

 

Anyone know what I can buy an ACT clutch for cheap?

 

Did some looking around, and this is the cheapest place I've found the ACT clutches so far.

http://www.racepages.com/performance...ped_brand=true

Their clutch kits come with the pilot bearing and throw-out bearings, so I can replace those at the same time as the disc and pressure plate. Also, I remember reading on ACT's website that you need to resurface your flywheel when you install a new clutch. Is this true?

 

what's the difference between 4pad and 6pad?

 

Don't run them on the street if you don't know what you're doing.

4-puck is really a race-only clutch.
The 4-puck is more aggressive than the 6-puck.


-Ted

 

omfg so true, 4 puck = horrible on the street. When I bought my t2 the guy had one in for some stupid reason(didnt even race the car...legally). They are ridiculous in stop and go traffic, its basically a switch. engaged or disengaged unless you go really easy on it. It will tear apart your motor mounts as well if they are stock and if you dont have an engine torque brace setup. Both of my motor mounts were broken when I did my engine swap.

 

i believe i understand
you think your <140lbs of torque could make a stock clutch slip

 

Yea, I think it could. It's doing it right now in fact.

 

it is doing that because it is worn out.
either from poor driving that made pre-mature wear, or from a high mileage unit.

 

Well, I don't want a crappy stock replacement. They suck and don't grab near as well as an ACT clutch will. Not to mention that for 300 bucks, I get a disc, plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and clutch adjusting tool. I'm sure that stock replacement is going to cost at least half that, and not last near as long or perform near as well.

 

the stock one will perform well!
how many miles does your car have?
obviously, it held up until now, and the last few owners probably abused it too!

What mods have you done to your car?

There is no point getting a stronger clutch to abuse your worn out transmission....

 

Ive had lots of good experiences with stock clutches. If your stock clutch is slipping, you probably have a worn out clutch. Stock n/a clutches have even held up well for my friend running a turbo on his s5 n/a engine. I doubt you will exceed the clutch's limits with an n/a engine. If you want an upgraded one just for the hell of it, thats a different story.

 

i just got my clutch and pressure plate replaced last week by a local shop they installed a luk clutch and it seems excellent so far. the pedal pressure feels very soft but when releasing in grabs very quickly. clutch/pressure plate all associated bearings + replacing input shaft bearing + labor = $700

 

AHHHHHHHHHh1!1!!

Why wouldnt you do it yourself? Its not hard at all. I got my act kit for 250 and did it my self, and in my friends fd.

 

I want something that's going to grab a little harder than the stock clutch and not wear out near as fast. I've never had good luck with stock clutches in any of my cars. My car has 97k on it now, and the clutch is going out pretty fast, so I need a replacement soon. A Stage 1 ACT clutch isn't going to be that hard on the tranny, but when you talk Stage II then yea. Also, the price for stock parts is going to be just as much as buying the ACT clutch kit, so why not upgrade it a bit?

 

if you never had good luck with stock clutches
maybe it is time to learn how to drive a stick...

i mean, i see people slip their clutch from 3k just to get off the line....

when i drive... from trucks to cars... the clutch fully engages under 1k... im sure the clutch would last alot longer driving like that!

 

Let me ask you this, why are you so hell bent on a stock clutch and not getting one that's going to engage better and be about the same price for all the parts? As of now, I'm still leaning towards the ACT clutch because it's going to function better and have the same driveability as stock and be about the same price.

 

the stock one is over 100 cheaper.
you are 'going to replace it soon' anyways
why spend the extra 100?


why do you keep thinking that you need one that 'engages' better? why not learn to slip the clutch correctly since you 'never had good luck with stock clutches'

 

Hey, my clutch is going out too I think. Since the beginning of the year, only when cruising in 5th at 3k-4k RPM's when I get on it a little bit it slips. Then in the summer when cruising I would down shift into 4th and it would slip there as well.
Now 3rd is sliping.
When Im starting off in 1st and taking off fast, when I shift into 2nd i can feel it slip.
I figure if I drive carefuly, by the begenning of next year ill only have 1st and 2nd.

Anyway I too want to know how much its gona cost me. I'm doing the work myself. I too am wondering what setup I should go with. Its a '89 rx7 n/a DD. 157k + miles (not shure if previous owner had clutch work done) Im thinking of stock setup because its cheap, but I do drive with a rough "drop the clutch" habit. Thats why I would consider a sports clutch.

One question, for a cheap upgrade, would a stock TII clutch work on an n/a?? Thinking that a stock TII clutch is beafy'er.

later.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DAIKI...QQcmdZViewItem

get something like this

no a t2 clutch wont work

 

That's not a bad price on that one, but it doesn't include the pilot bearing either like the ACT one does. So you're saying go with an Exedy OEM clutch, not just a regular off-brand OEM clutch?

 

i am pretty sure it comes with a pilot bearing...
if not, they are 2-3 dollars from autozone