pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Tank and tanks straps are out, shocks disconnected at bottom, Wheels, calipers (wire tied to springs), rotors out.

I'm thinking of leaving the hubs, axles, and spindles attached to the 'control arm". OK? Seen a few pics of people doing it this way.

1. Do the hubs have to be removed to remove the brake shields? Looks like it. Don't wanna bend them, but don't want the extra work, since at this point I don't really have to undo any of it.

2. Would it be crazy and/or stupid (too heavy/awkward) to take out the diff and subframe together, just to avoid separating the diff and axles? I have an LSD to put in, but am weighing the option of separating them out of the car, instead of while under it. But I'm pretty sure I better take the diff out, since I'm not a heavyweight, lol.

Just looking for input.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

No one posted re: my questions above.

Should the diff come out with the sub-frame? Because there doesn't seem to be access to separate at the front mount?

Help!

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

drop the diff with the subframe.
You would have to undo the front mount from the diff to drop the subframe if you did it the other way and then it would really be a pain in the *** trying to get the front mount to line up to get the subframe back in/on.(that is if the diff remained on the car)
2 bolts on the ears is the only thing holding that thing to your car once the crap on the subframe is disconnected.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Yes, I'm there (just diff and subframe on, everything else disconnected.). Just needed someone to confirm what I felt.

Thanks!

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Got the tank and sub-frame out. Much better access to all the lines. Then got the lines out. I've got both fuel lines and the evap line out. The brake line is ok (haven't decided if worth replacing), so unclipped it from all the plastic/metal brackets. It's slow progress, only because I'm busy. Not that bad of a job, actually.

Just chiming in to say if replacing fuel lines all the way from front to back it makes it easier if you:

1. unbolt the rear stabilizer bar and remove it completely
2. unbolt/unhook parking brake cables to the rear caliper brackets
3. disconnect (unscrew) speedo cable.

This way there's less crap for the lines to hang up on.

Also a good time to check and replace (if needed) the parking brake cables, the brake line at the back from the block to the passenger side, and anything accessible at this point.

yositune

I am going to need to replace my hardlines as well and will likely do brake line as well. If anyone has any other pics, recent suggestions, and advice specific to the 91 Vert I'd appreciate it. I'm assuming that once the subframe bolts are loose it's about a half-day job?

I'm considering just sending it out.. because yes I'm getting too old for this!

Vartok

i replaced mine last year. I have a good deal of rust underneath (though no structural issues yet) and was afraid of snapping bolts. what i did was run the lines back to the first 90 bend up, bubble flare the end and run FI rated rubber lines from there up to the tank. I figured it shouldnt be too big of an issue since there is already rubber lines on both ends anyway. Now i didnt do the brake lines as they arnt in too bad of shape on mine.