gymboZ

I'm about to replace clutch 87 non-turbo. It's been a while since i've preformed this repair. I have the BOOK, parts , time. Need some pointers, got some jack stands 21" is this high enought? will I need to rent a transmisson jack ? any tricks, tips. BTW GOOD site as I get more educated In the RX7 hope to pass it on.

tworotor1985

It Can Be Cumbersome To Do Alone, If You have Some One Help Pull the Trans Out And Get It Back In 2 people=easier. A Transmission Jack Is Not Nessisary With 2 People. Just Be Shure To Check The Pilot Bearing And The Seal. The Pilot Bearings Are Normally Worn Out And Need To Be Replaced. Napa Sells The Same Koyo Bearing As Mazda But They Dont Stock The Seal. All Of the Aftermarket Clutch Kits I Have Bought Havent Included the Seal

Project84

Yeah, the tranny is bulky. Its not too heavy for 1 person just awkward. Sounds like you got everything you need besides a friend, a pizza and a 12 pack.

RXSevenSymphonies

iTrader: (2)

What The Hell Is With The Constant Capitalization?

tworotor1985

Just habbit

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Man, do you know how much it hurts my eyes to read that constant capitalization? Almost as much as your misspelling does..

Gen2

iTrader: (3)

don't you know that's how they write in So. CArolina?

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

I guess...

Bukwild

Get a light flywheel and ACT 6 puck to replace the old clutch. You will have more fun with the power you have.
You will kick yourself in the *** if you don't

Blake_91

Even with the proper equipment, lift, transmition jack etc... it was a little tricky getting the input shaft to line up and not hurt the pilot bearing! At any rate, take your time... think logicly... borrow a fairly strong friend... And for god sake, don't try to slide the transmition off of the dowels while either one of you is lying under it!

-The transmition has a fairly even weight distrabution.
-Replace atleast the front input tranny seal. If the old one leaks which is not uncommon and you dont replace it, you get to do it all over again, for clutch's don't like the feel of gear oil. Rear tranny seal is not a bad idea either.
-Pilot bearing/and pilot seal
-Throughout bearing
-Proper clutch disc alignment tool. (ask if your clutch comes with one, if not GET ONE.)
*Mazda trix has everything listed above*
-A couple cans of brake clean
-Anti-seize.
*Nappa/local auto supply store*

*Clean and anti-seize the gear part of the imput shaft on the tranny.
*Clean and anti-seize any metal to metal pivoting/moving parts, except bearings/ and obviously anything that you dont want to slide.
*Be sparing with "anti-seize as it makes a horrible mess, thin coat is fine, if some is good more is NOT better!
*Change your tranny oil while it is out of the car. There is a metric drain on the bottom and, an allen filler on the side. Make sure that the tranny is sitting flat and even when filling it back up! Fill untill the gear oil is even with the filler hole.

Hope this helps,
-Blake

dalec919

I'm posting my recent (ongoing) experiance with a clutch replacment on a '86. This was my first time so I started several weekends ago and have been chasing parts and tools around and would share a few pointers to anyone so you can have an easier experiance than I have had.

1. If you dont have a transmission jack, buy one or rent one. The tranny is not that heavy, but awkward to handle and difficult to align, even with two people under the car. Its dangerous to try and do it without a jack, even with two people. Harbour Freight tools sells a small mechanical tranny jack for around $60 and it works very well.

2. Drain the tranny fluid. It will make a mess coming out the back if you dont drain it. Buy one of the bulk 5 quart refill 80-90w and a pumper for putting fluid back and it will be a much easier and less messy.

3. Buy the pilot bearing and seal from a mazda dealer. The parts cost only a little more are better quality than from those in the kits. The pilot needle bearing that was in my kit kept wanting to fall apart, so I threw it away. The dealer was the only place that has the seal.

4. Rent or buy a slide hammer. Make sure it will fit inside the pilot. Take the replacement pilot with you so you can check the slide hammer for a good fit. I searched all over for a hammer that would work, and found one at Harbour Tools. If you still have trouble with the pilot bearing, you might have to get a dremmel and cut it out- see the other posts on that.

5. Flywheel. You will need a 54mm or a 2 1/8". I couldnt find a 54mm here in Houston, so I went with a 2 1/8 from Harbour (had to buy a 3/4 set and breaker). Inspect the flywheel surface for hairline cracks. I took mine to an automotive machine shop and for $35 had it turned. Make sure they do a "dual surface" turn so that your pad doesnt slip from taking down the metal. That means they pull the pins and turn the outside as well. MAKE SURE when you put it back on, that it goes down all the way, mine hung on the pin and even though I thought i had it torqued, it wasn't snug, and needless to say I had to drop the tranny again. Get a tranny lock that bolts on to lock it and keep it from turning.

6. Pull your shift lever from inside. Inspect and or replace all the rubber inner boots. All of mine well rotted and had to go.

7. After putting the new clutch and pilot bearing and getting the tranny up into position with the tranny jack, I HIGHLY recommend you get a floor jack and a block of wood to gently jack the ENGINE itself so that its tilted back at an angle toward the tranny. ITs the only way I could get the tranny to line up correctly so the shaft would slide into the pilot without damage.

I probably left out some important details- I assumed that you have a chiltons or shop manual, a torque wrench, etc.