I'm in the process of replacing my subframe and I can't for the life of me get the later link ball joints to pull out of the subframe. I've got the 17mm nuts removed from the ball joint studs and the trailing arms are disconnected along with the front diff mount but those later links are keeping me from pulling the subframe outta there. My manual says to take a hammer and brass punch and punch them out, but for one, I don't have much room to build enough speed with the hammer to get a good swing and two, I'm assuming I would have to do the same to get them back on which would be even harder?

Anybody have any good techniques for getting these off?

Thanks,

~Ant

 

Picklefork? Works for me in crappy situations.

http://images.speedwaymotors.com/RS/...91089600_L.jpg

 

I may just pick one of those up in the morning. What would I do to get them back on though?

 

Ended up using that fork, plenty of liquid wrench, and a brass punch to get those things off..took longer to get those later links off then it did putting the entire subframe back in, lol.

 

Just make VERY sure you get them tight again, otherwise the car will randomly decide to [literally!] turn on you!

Curious... why did you replace the subframe?

 

Thanks, I didn't know that. I tightened them down with a 2 foot long breaker bar so they're pretty dang tight but if the car does jump around I'll know where to look .

I had to replace it because my rear diff mount sheared off from the subframe mounting tab, usually the rear diff mount just rips but that wasnt the case here

 

You can take off the nut, then thread it on a few threads and use a deep well impact socket to hit it with a hammer.

But I see you already have them out and back in.

It is worrisome that you tightened them with a breaker bar, because everything on the suspension has a torque spec.

 

hmm, if anything I over torqued them...I might double check with my torque wrench after work tomorrow.

 

You're probably good then. One of mine was loose when I swapped subframes [MT/5lug swap] and it was really scary driving on the freeway.. It kept turning back and forth and the the alignment shop didn't know why ~_~ In the end I just hit it with my DeWalt electric impact and got it tight [but last Friday when the car was in the air we noticed the other one was magically loose and impacted it too.. And checked everything else on the subframe. It handles much better this way ]

Ouch.. I've seen pictures of that happening.. Driving pretty hard then? lol..

Aaron>> It was the normal DeWalt 1/2" drive electric, just like this: http://www.homedepot.ca/wcsstore/Hom...7d877e48_4.jpg
I think I only hit it for a second or two after it snugged down, to be sure. [the bolt/stud end kept spinning when I was using a ratchet.. So I had to use the impact]

 

i had to replace the pass. lat link, some idiot before me decided to hold it down on the flat bed by the bar so i had to replace it, now i need to get a bushing set because they just disintegrated.

 

If you haven't already, install a pinion snubber. Just drill a hole in the hump in the floor (about an inch diameter) through the first layer of sheet metal. Then drill a 1/4" hole for the snubber in the second layer of metal. Throw a couple washers between the rubber and the sheet metal, install your lock not, reinstall the diff/subframe and then torque down the snubber.

Keeps the diff from moving ANYWHERE. Really cheap preventive maintenance.

 

Over torque can be worse then low torque. If you have tightened fasteners past their yeild point, they can break at any time. If you really did crank down on the thing wihgt a 4 foot breaker bar, then replace the fasteners. On the lateral link, this probably means replacing the link.

 

U guys were right about torquing down all the bolts...seems like my rear diff mount has wiggled itself loose and is pressing up against the pinion snubber, lol. Guess the subframe is coming down again, lol. I doubt I can fit a torque wrench up there tho...my foot and a pry bar might have to be suffice.

 

If you jack up the rear of the car enough a torque wrench can easily fit, but if you are trying to torque the two front diff-mount nuts have fun. The space isn't the best to do it in with the whole subframe on the chassis, you may have to drop the subframe a bit for some room....