2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Removing emission related stuff?

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Old Jul 23, 2005 | 07:03 AM
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Removing emission related stuff?

Yes ive serched, read etc. But i cant find answers for mine questions.
I was going to follow rotary resurrection "how to" when removing my emission stuff on my S4 T2 Jspec.
1. What does the Thermowax and what will the difference be without it?
2. What do i do with the Pressure- and twinscroll solenoid?
3. Do i remove my air supply valve?
4. In the "how to" he removes the butterflies from the TB. What does this cause/improve?
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Old Jul 23, 2005 | 09:45 AM
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From: Norway
ive got some more questions

Insted of plugging 2 water hoses shown (plugged) on this picture.. can i connect them together insted?
Its the one under the alternator on the water pump housing
and the other one is the one not far from the flywheel.
Both goes to the thermowax ****...

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Old Jul 24, 2005 | 05:32 AM
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can i remove the vac to the fuel regulator ? what does the vac do?
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Old Jul 24, 2005 | 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Sindregutt
What does the Thermowax and what will the difference be without it?
The thermowax opens the primary throttle a little bit when the engine is cold, so that you have a steady idle until the engine warms up. There are no gains from removing it, but you will have poor cold idle quality without it. You may need to keep your foot on the gas to stop it stalling.

What do i do with the Pressure- and twinscroll solenoid?
If you want to keep them working, remove them from the rack, mount them somewhere and replumb them with rubber vac line. It's very important they're plumbed correctly, so refer to the FSM vac routing schematic for the correct orientation of the solenoids and the twin-scroll's check valve.

If you don't want the hot start assist system (that's what the FPR solenoid is for), run a vac line from the angled nipple on the inside of the LIM straight to the FPR.

Do i remove my air supply valve?
On the back of the UIM? No, there's no need to. It helps with power steering loads.

In the "how to" he removes the butterflies from the TB. What does this cause/improve?
The TB has a double throttle system on the secondary bores (to butterflies per bore). On turbos, the upstream throttles are damped so they don't open too quickly, because at low rpm this would cause the engine to stumble. Removing them increases throttle response noticably, because the secondaries now effectively open quicker. You just have to learn not to floor the gas pedal at low rpm. No big deal.

Insted of plugging 2 water hoses shown (plugged) on this picture.. can i connect them together insted?
You can, but I'd recommend leaving the thermowax in place instead. I can't see any point in removing it.

can i remove the vac to the fuel regulator ?
Absolutlely no way! That's a sure way to kill a turbo engine. The FPR adjusts fuel rail pressure so that the difference between it and manifold pressure is kept constant (that's what the vac line is for). If you disconnected it you'd have too much fuel pressure (and hence too much fuel) when the manifold was in vacuum and not enough when in boost. You'd be running very lean at full boost, and your engine would not last long...
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Old Jul 24, 2005 | 07:08 AM
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NZConvertible, THANKS! you answered all i need to know for now Maybe i reconnect the thermowax (If its still possible after i filled the TB with epoxy :S)
ill connect the vac from the FPR directly into the UIM..
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Old Jul 24, 2005 | 01:02 PM
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www.rotaryresurrection.com
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Old Jul 24, 2005 | 01:22 PM
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I removed all emmission components and front TB flapper. I just made an aluminum plate with a gasket to blocked the ACV opening to the manifold.
Won't give you any HP but like NZ said noticeable better response, kinda like when you tap the gas it revs up quicker from idle.
Before you do that think that there's no big gains, there's no average upgrade that would require you to eliminate it and most of all...now I live in another state...CA. Either I put everything back or..truck the car to the track. (Lucky it's still registered in FL)
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Old Jul 25, 2005 | 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Sindregutt
ill connect the vac from the FPR directly into the UIM..
You mean LIM...

Originally Posted by NZConvertible
If you don't want the hot start assist system (that's what the FPR solenoid is for), run a vac line from the angled nipple on the inside of the LIM straight to the FPR.
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Old Jul 25, 2005 | 03:34 AM
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From: Norway
ahh :P yup ill connect it to the LIM
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Old Jul 25, 2005 | 09:29 AM
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Having had the occasion to remove my thermowax (one of the goofy shaped lines sprung a leak and I needed the car running later that day, the only part I could get locally was a generic "L" line, so I had to bypass it), KEEP THE THERMOWAX.

The engine won't hold a 750 RPM idle until it's warmed up a bit. It's not too bad now, in the 90+ degree weather, but I still have to hold the idle up for the first minute or two of driving to avoid stalling it. In the winter, it'll be horrible. I'm replacing the thermowax here when I do a bunch of other work.

It's really not terribly comforting for passengers when your engine stalls repeatedly after you start it and work on getting out of a tight parking lot. You get really good at heel toe work, but it's still rough.

-=Russ=-
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Old Jul 25, 2005 | 03:14 PM
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no thermowax isn't that bad.... I've had mine removed for a while and haven't had too much trouble. I like the less complicated tb a lot more than I don't like having to keep it a live for a little while (if that made sense )
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