Removing emission related stuff?
#1
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Removing emission related stuff?
Yes ive serched, read etc. But i cant find answers for mine questions.
I was going to follow rotary resurrection "how to" when removing my emission stuff on my S4 T2 Jspec.
1. What does the Thermowax and what will the difference be without it?
2. What do i do with the Pressure- and twinscroll solenoid?
3. Do i remove my air supply valve?
4. In the "how to" he removes the butterflies from the TB. What does this cause/improve?
I was going to follow rotary resurrection "how to" when removing my emission stuff on my S4 T2 Jspec.
1. What does the Thermowax and what will the difference be without it?
2. What do i do with the Pressure- and twinscroll solenoid?
3. Do i remove my air supply valve?
4. In the "how to" he removes the butterflies from the TB. What does this cause/improve?
#2
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ive got some more questions
Insted of plugging 2 water hoses shown (plugged) on this picture.. can i connect them together insted?
Its the one under the alternator on the water pump housing
and the other one is the one not far from the flywheel.
Both goes to the thermowax ****...
Insted of plugging 2 water hoses shown (plugged) on this picture.. can i connect them together insted?
Its the one under the alternator on the water pump housing
and the other one is the one not far from the flywheel.
Both goes to the thermowax ****...
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Originally Posted by Sindregutt
What does the Thermowax and what will the difference be without it?
What do i do with the Pressure- and twinscroll solenoid?
If you don't want the hot start assist system (that's what the FPR solenoid is for), run a vac line from the angled nipple on the inside of the LIM straight to the FPR.
Do i remove my air supply valve?
In the "how to" he removes the butterflies from the TB. What does this cause/improve?
Insted of plugging 2 water hoses shown (plugged) on this picture.. can i connect them together insted?
can i remove the vac to the fuel regulator ?
#5
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NZConvertible, THANKS! you answered all i need to know for now Maybe i reconnect the thermowax (If its still possible after i filled the TB with epoxy :S)
ill connect the vac from the FPR directly into the UIM..
ill connect the vac from the FPR directly into the UIM..
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I removed all emmission components and front TB flapper. I just made an aluminum plate with a gasket to blocked the ACV opening to the manifold.
Won't give you any HP but like NZ said noticeable better response, kinda like when you tap the gas it revs up quicker from idle.
Before you do that think that there's no big gains, there's no average upgrade that would require you to eliminate it and most of all...now I live in another state...CA. Either I put everything back or..truck the car to the track. (Lucky it's still registered in FL)
Won't give you any HP but like NZ said noticeable better response, kinda like when you tap the gas it revs up quicker from idle.
Before you do that think that there's no big gains, there's no average upgrade that would require you to eliminate it and most of all...now I live in another state...CA. Either I put everything back or..truck the car to the track. (Lucky it's still registered in FL)
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#8
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Originally Posted by Sindregutt
ill connect the vac from the FPR directly into the UIM..
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
If you don't want the hot start assist system (that's what the FPR solenoid is for), run a vac line from the angled nipple on the inside of the LIM straight to the FPR.
#10
Having had the occasion to remove my thermowax (one of the goofy shaped lines sprung a leak and I needed the car running later that day, the only part I could get locally was a generic "L" line, so I had to bypass it), KEEP THE THERMOWAX.
The engine won't hold a 750 RPM idle until it's warmed up a bit. It's not too bad now, in the 90+ degree weather, but I still have to hold the idle up for the first minute or two of driving to avoid stalling it. In the winter, it'll be horrible. I'm replacing the thermowax here when I do a bunch of other work.
It's really not terribly comforting for passengers when your engine stalls repeatedly after you start it and work on getting out of a tight parking lot. You get really good at heel toe work, but it's still rough.
-=Russ=-
The engine won't hold a 750 RPM idle until it's warmed up a bit. It's not too bad now, in the 90+ degree weather, but I still have to hold the idle up for the first minute or two of driving to avoid stalling it. In the winter, it'll be horrible. I'm replacing the thermowax here when I do a bunch of other work.
It's really not terribly comforting for passengers when your engine stalls repeatedly after you start it and work on getting out of a tight parking lot. You get really good at heel toe work, but it's still rough.
-=Russ=-
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