Just like the titles says, can it be done? The reason being is my rearend is howling very badly. I plan to install all new bearings and seals or find another s4 t2 diff.
I can do all the work at my shop but i will have to roll the car out the shop everyday its not finished. Thus why i need the subframe/wheels intact.

Thoughts? Awnsers? Thanks, Nick

 

Yes you can do it. I had very limited tools and only had the rear of my car jacked up and pulled the diff out without unbolting the subframe. It was a pain in the *** but now I suggest unbolting the subframe leave the nuts on the bottom threads to hold it up and unbolt the vertical subframe link and you should be fine.
Good luck.

 

Ah yes, thank you.

 

It's more straight toward to drop the subframe but I feel it's easier just to pull the diff out by itself. It's all personal preference of course.

 

I took mines out without dropping the subframe all by myself in the street with jackstands and two jacks.
Looking back....I rather drop the subframe, much easier and less headaches compared to prying and shifting about all under the car.

but if its on a lift, you will definitely have an easier time taking it out with subframe still in.

 

The problem isn't getting the difff out, that's easy. Its getting it back in w/o unbolting the subframe thats a pain in the ***.

 

I just use bailing wire to hold up the driveshaft and axles to keep them from flopping around and hitting around when being pushed

 

^ thanks i will do that. Great to hear the diff can be dropped without removing the subframe so i can still roll the car around. Bad to hear its more annoying.

 

O yeah, one last quick question. Does the fuel tank need to be dropped to pull the diff out?

 

Nope.

 

Thank you

 

Thread revival!

So i picked up a crappy n.a rear and axels for dirt cheap. I finally attempted to swap rears and i got stuck right at the beginning.
The main problem im having is removing the front diff mount. How the heck are you suppose to get those two nuts off when there is simply no room for a wrench? I can get the wrench on in 1 position but i have no room to turn the wrench. The rest of the stuff looks straight forward.
Im thinking about removing the entire subframe now. Our shop is a tractor/trailer shop, there is no lifts.....we just use bottle jacks on the trucks. But we have a nice big transmission jack i can use to drop the subframe.
I do not want to have to do it this way because like i said before if the car isnt finished it must be able to roll out the shop. How long should it take to drop subframe then swap rears? I do have more than enough time im sure (empty shop saturday/sunday) But if i snag some crazy problem then im screwed. Input please and thanks, Nick

 

Lower the front of the subframe and use a lot if extensions until you have enough room to fit a ratchet on them.

 

Yeah i guess i wasnt to smart about it. I just did a quick search and figured that out. Hope this helps others.

 

Yea, I actually did this again about 2 months ago again and it only took me and my buddy 2 hours to remove and reinstall.
once you complete it one time, it will very easy next time.

 

Yeah i just did it today finally. Amazing to have a quite car now but i still have a problem thats pissing me off.
New rear,fluid and axels. Im getting a scratching sound but it only happens when you touch the gas...even a tiny bit and you can clearly hear it. Rolling in neutral or on decell it doesnt do it at all. Its certainly not the brake sheilds or the driveshaft. Something is flexing and scrapping when on accel even barely touching the gas and boom you hear it. Ugh im exhuasted and just want my daily driver to be not annoying to drive. Ideas?

 

I also like to add that i couldnt get the front diff mount nuts off for my life with extensions and a ratchet. But if you have enough extensions you can get a impact on those two nuts no problem which saved my a lot of stress. Doing this by myself in 5 hours...NOT FUN