I removed my ACV, then started the motor up, and i don't have power brakes. They worked before i put this other motor in. Any ideas? I left the circle thing in the manifold when i removed the ACV.

 

Are you sure you hooked up the vac line to the engine after you swapped it in for the booster?

 

yeah i did...the booster is hooked up

 

Did you disconnect the LIM connection for the booster line? Right behind the ACV...

 

what is the LIM connection?

 

There's a connection somewhere at the back of the LIM, right behind the spot the ACV was in (on n/a's, anyway)- did you crack it, bump it, remove it, etc?

 

What does LIM stand for?

 

lower intake manifold

 

do you know the connector he is talking about?

 

if you are staring at the manifold, from the passenger side fender, the fitting is on the left hand side, on the back of the motor. It has a black rubber hose over it that should go to the brake booster. the fitting is held on with a banjo bolt that likes to get clogged really quick. you'll need to clean that fitting with compressed air or gasoline or thinner or something abrasive.

 

okay, thanks, 'cause it is giving me a little bit of a vacuum, but nothing major. if i let the car idle for 10 min. then hit the brakes, they work once, then go back to being really hard

 

that last entry is kind of confusing, what I meant was it is on the back of the lower intake manifold, not the block. You don't have to take the manifolds off to get to the fitting. The fitting is shaped like an box with a hole in it with a tube that comes out the side of the box and turns like 90 degrees. The banjo bolt thats prolly gotta be cleaned goes through the top of the box and screws into the lower intake manifold.

 

You replaced the broke booster vac hose on the driverside of the engine didn't you? theres an unmarked checkvalve pressed into that vac line. Its a $32 mistake that I made. Your mazda dealer has the fix.

That 4" hose is $32


EDIT:

This picture shows the vac hookup on the LIM. It is in the lower left hand corner and it jets off to the left right away: http://sheepdog.ar2engineering.net/p...s/PICT0027.JPG

 

I replaced that vary hose as well. it works fine. I just need bigger brakes and system filled with DOT 5. The hose I used was just some thick random tube I found in my garage.

 

1) You do not need dot5. Infact you will probably be better off NOT doing that "upgrade". Leave the $20/quart brake fluid to new systems that are specificaly designed for it.
2)Nor do you "need" "bigger" brakes.

3) Replacing above said hose with a hose that does not have a checkvalve installed will make the brake booster not work at all.

Spend the $32 for the hose and fix your brake booster, or spend $20 for dot 5 fluid, $400 for new "bigger brakes" and then still not have working brakes.

 

bah bah..I have been autocrossing for over 4 years. If I can't lock my brakes on race pads (slicks will do that), I need bigger brakes. my car is a base model. It has the single piston front calipers. Some times I make 6 runs at once. these runs can last over a minute. brakes fade. My power assist works great with just a generic hose, don't buy that stupid dealer hose. spend the money on crack and condoms

 

I prefer spending my money on amunition for dna gene pool cleansing. My current target practice is crack ******.

 

Or spend it on a detox center & diapers...

That's funny- I have no problems locking my brakes up on my base...

 

My taxes already go to pay loser-alcoholics that need detox and diapers. A $.87 lead pointed rod would cure that money pit. (Harsh? ******* damn straight..)

Also, my S5 GTU has no chance without the brake booster opperational. Maby the s4 base's are setup differently and do not rely so heavily on the bias of the booster.

 

oh yeah they do. you gotta have the brake booster working right, if it doesn't, it starts to lock the brakes really easy and fast, its not the peddle pressure that gets me, its locking them up at 20 MPH going into a corner. that locking only happens on really crappy street tires and no booster working. once I cleaned the banjo bolt, it was fixed. I swapped out chassis and when I did, I just replaced the line on the driver's side and there was no change in peddle pressure or sensitivity. It worked fine. and hey, don't hurt those crack ******, I need them, they are the only chicks that like me and I'm pretty needy right now! Ajacks can take off most of the funk, and if that don't work, I just toss em into the parts washer. once they get a hot soapy water bath and are fully degreased and tattooless, its time to clean the threads, check all tolerances, and hump some crack ***** hunnies! MMO works great on those dry areas.

 

lol... thats so wrong, yet quite funny

 

you just have to understand how baren cookeville is of women. read that MIDDLE/EAST TN. NEED MORE YUMMY WOMAN! I want the human female equivalent of an FD that is not beat up and beat out. My last datie/massage partner was a smokey mid 90s caprice woody wagon. It always comes in extremes. I am either with a beat up yugo or a slightly used Olds Brougham with a full trunk and a leaky exhaust. If I'm not married to a cool hottie in the next few years, I am gonna go for a mail order bride from Thailand.

 

lol, good **** guys. I cleaned the brake booster bolt, it was clogged as all hell. She works great now

 

okay so were is my auto-hottie...don't I get a consolation prize?