'Vert in Vegas

I would like to post a picture. How do I do it?

Node

iTrader: (1)

when posting there is an attach a image, or something along those lines feature on the bottom of the page right about teh reply button

Thingol

This sounds like an interesting project. As for the issue of whether or not to do the original targa piece, or go with a sunroof, what about doing the complete top with a moonroof? It does not need to even be moveable, just a permanently mounted piece of glass in the top. Just a thought.

'Vert in Vegas

Some of the ideas are neat, BUT any thing that adds to the complexity of building this thing will probably keep it from happening.
Sunroof and moonroof= much additional labor in making the damn thing.
Making a new Targa top that removes upward= Very complex, as you would be fighting the compound curve IN THE WRONG DIRECTION!
I want to make this and I do believe it will either have to be a 1 piece top, or use the exixsting Targa top.
ONE MORE TIME:
Is there anyone with fibergalss experience in the Las Vegas area that would like to help on this one?

vaughnc

Why you ask.

Better visibility in the winter, less drag, less drafty, etc..

'Vert in Vegas

Vaughn;
I lost the thread. What is your Why to?
And what is less drafty?
Thanks,
Ed W

rx7_ragtop

Keep THIS in mind: You would have to remove the soft top to install the hard top... OR you would be adding weight and gaining nothing. The stock convertible top is both very rigid and well insulated, better than a lot of solid roofs. I'll stick to the stock unit.

larsyoung

I wish I lived in Vegas to help you. I've been considering doing this for a few months now. I've worked with fiberglass mostly in the cold mold boatbuilding process.
The way I see it, first class materials for the hard top can be acquired rather cheaply. My off-the-cuff guess is under $500 not including painting. All it takes it a lot of patience and a tolerance for a messy job.
I would go with the stock targa top concept because you have more options that way, lots of the hardware is already in place and 1/2 of the job is already done.
Another thing I've considered is finding a larger rear window that would minimizing the blind spots.
The materials I will use for construction are:

West System epoxy resin is the Cadillac of resins. I wouldn't use a polyester resin because of the smell and work time among other things. Plus west system's dispensing system is a no brainer.
A gallon of resin and hardener is just under $100. I've glassed a whole canoe with a little over a gallon, so one gallon might be enough. West system has a lot of great information. All the little rollers and squeegees will probably total about $40.
http://www.westsystem.com

Core-Cell composite core material. example:1/2"x 4'x8' sheet is about $80.
http://www.noahsmarine.com

3m or West system fairing and filling mixtures to make the final product smooth as a baby's bottom. I Think 3m is easier to work with.

Biaxial Fiberglass (2layers each side of core, min) Biaxial glass can be pulled and stretched to fit the curves of the top without any "puckering" or folds.

I haven't really thought about the seals and gaskets needed, or headliner and insulation but probably something with universal application would be easiest.

A rear hinge attachment on either side of the trunk as stated before I the way I will go.

After the first top shape is finished and faired, a negative mold could be made and top could be produced in numbers quite easily.

Another thing I thought of making is a fiberglass convertible top cover. It could split down the middle like the BMW Z3 models for storage in the trunk.

I guess I’m getting little ahead of myself.
Lars

'Vert in Vegas

Thanks, that is the kind of info I wanted.
I will build it on my spare Vert. The top on that is trash, and I can use it to provide the shape I need.
I have a spare Vert rear window, and it is HEAVY. What do you think about using a piece of Lexan for the rear window?
When I get the Exterior shape completed and am ready for a mold, how do I do the inside? Do I just accept a rough finish , or can I do a mold for the inside?

Icemark

You can't have the rear defroster with Lexan. I would look for a window in a junk yard from another car that would fit so that there could be a bigger rear window area.

Quote:

When I get the Exterior shape completed and am ready for a mold, how do I do the inside? Do I just accept a rough finish , or can I do a mold for the inside?

Finish by a layer of headliner, found at any auto upholstery shop or store. It has about a 1/4 inch of foam under it to mask any imperfections in the interior gel coat.

larsyoung

Could you describe how that attachment worked? I've been assuming that an outside latch would be the way to go, but perhaps not.
Lars

'Vert in Vegas

The way the inside latch worked on my Sprite:
(This seems like it will be hard to describe)
Imagine a 1/4" diameter threaded rod, approx. 12' long,
with a 180 degree bend forming a hook on one end.
On the inside lower edge of the hardtop, just behind the door, there is a metal tab,
with a 90 degree bend.
There is a hole in that tab that lines up with a similar tab attached to the car.
Drop the rod through from the top into the hole in both brackets.
Run a nut onto it, and the top is firmly held in place.

Imischeifin

Back from the dead, Has anyone made any progress on this??? Geico is supposed to be replacing my top. But if they don't, I would like to make a hard top (removeable, no sunroof, no targa)