Moved my battery today, using the moroso battery box and summit 1-gauge wire kit, both from summit racing supply. Had to totally sacrifice the passenger side storage bin, in fact, the box is too big, and sticks out, I had to take the door off, it sticks up about an inch above the deck of the bin area. I'll paint it black and fill in the empty area to the side of it with some carpet or something sooner or later. It's a nice box though. I have to custom fab a battery tie-down though, because the threaded rods included with the kit end up being too short, since the box doesn't sit flat on the bottom but instead is suspended over the concave metal part on its four corners. I haven't attempted any driving at the limit yet, but the car seems a little lighter around corners at low speeds. Oh yeah, the frontmost mounting hole ended up being right on top of a subframe member, making it a real pain in the *** to get the nut and washer onto the end of the threaded rod under the car.

Putting the seat back in, I managed to f- up some threads though... gotta get some heli-coils tomorrow...

 

I did this same mod as well. I cut and welded a metal plate for the bottom of the storage bin. That made a flat surface for the box to sit on. I too had clearance problems with the lids. I took 3/4 inch particle board and cut 4 rectangular rings that matched the dimentions of the lid and the plastic insert that makes up the bottom section of the lid and then covered these in carpet to match the carpet in my car. this will make the lids sit up higher but it solved the clearance problem. Also there is a threaded hole for the rear seat seatbelt. I used this threaded hole for the negative ground. I then ran the positive up the passengers side sill and through the firewall above the ECU. How did you connect the old positive battery cables to the new one up front. I kind of rigged mine and it will need to be changed.

 

hmm interesting. I don't have welding stuff though. I like the idea about lifting the bins... time for another trip to home depot... (which doesn't sell heli-coils, btw)

I also used the seatbelt bolt to mount the negative ground. I routed the positive cable to the side and under the driver's seat area (which pushes up the carpet a little, causing the misalignment that caused me to bitch up the threads) then ran it through the hole in the firewall above the pedals (which is also used for boost, water temp and AF lines) The battery kit came with some posts to put on the end of the wires, so there is a battery terminal screwed onto the end of the wire, and the car positive lead is clamped onto it and then wrapped in a good bit of electrical tape. I didn't know if the ground lead for the battery (under the hood) has anything hooked to it or just goes straight to the frame, so I took the other post that came with the kit and bolted it to the frame, and then attached the car ground line to it. Even if it does go straight to the frame, at least it isn't dangling around under the hood now. (since I didn't want to cut it off or anything)

 

yeah you want to ground the front wire since it goes to the engine. I'm going to move mine in a few months but I'm going to buy a gel battery. those fit, no box needed.