Reliving my youth - am I nuts? Flying to Chicago and driving her home..
07-23-09, 10:30 AM
#104
Aside from the issue of finding tires that you like, there is no practical reason to "upgrade" to a larger diameter wheel. The industry's move to larger wheels and lower profile tires was largely driven by automotive stylists; they've been clamoring for them for 25+ years and they finally won.
You'll see some increase in sidewall stiffness with a lower profile tire which may enhance cornering a bit, but at the expense of ride. You're also looking at much greater unsprung weight and significantly more expensive tires. I might add that if you do your own work on the car, the heavier wheels and tires are that much more of a nuisance every time you take them off. Of course if you modify the car to the point where it's putting down massive horsepower, you would want wider tires to handle the extra output, but that's not the case with the OP.
So you're left with deciding whether the modernized looks of lower profile tires/larger wheels are worth the various compromises. Given that this is now a 23 year old design, it takes a lot more than just a set of wheels to "modernize" the look very much. To me, a set of 2009-era wheels alone isn't going to be enough and often just looks out of place. You'll need to lower the car, add some kind of body kit, paint or remove the black bodyside moldings, possibly change to S5 taillights, replace the flip-up lights, etc. Another alternative is to work with the old looks and try to keep changes to things you might have seen in 1986. Then the car can be appreciated for what it is: a borderline classic.
You'll see some increase in sidewall stiffness with a lower profile tire which may enhance cornering a bit, but at the expense of ride. You're also looking at much greater unsprung weight and significantly more expensive tires. I might add that if you do your own work on the car, the heavier wheels and tires are that much more of a nuisance every time you take them off. Of course if you modify the car to the point where it's putting down massive horsepower, you would want wider tires to handle the extra output, but that's not the case with the OP.
So you're left with deciding whether the modernized looks of lower profile tires/larger wheels are worth the various compromises. Given that this is now a 23 year old design, it takes a lot more than just a set of wheels to "modernize" the look very much. To me, a set of 2009-era wheels alone isn't going to be enough and often just looks out of place. You'll need to lower the car, add some kind of body kit, paint or remove the black bodyside moldings, possibly change to S5 taillights, replace the flip-up lights, etc. Another alternative is to work with the old looks and try to keep changes to things you might have seen in 1986. Then the car can be appreciated for what it is: a borderline classic.
07-23-09, 10:46 AM
#105
I'm with Rob, 17s aren't going to add that much weight, if any. The tire selections is much better, and you can still keep a skinny tire if you want. 205s are ridiculous, they are Rollerblade wheels. You don't have to have 300hp to justify putting 225s and a 17" rim on your car...
Putting 17s doesn't mean you will "modernize" your car at all, its simply a nicer fit in the wheel well.
I think there are MANY modern rims out there that just don't work on the FC, but being wise with the selection can really improve the stance and feel of the car.
MS01s are made for the FC and are 17s. Did I mention they are the nicest rim on a FC?
There is a reason the industry went to a larger rim, it looks better!
Putting 17s doesn't mean you will "modernize" your car at all, its simply a nicer fit in the wheel well.
I think there are MANY modern rims out there that just don't work on the FC, but being wise with the selection can really improve the stance and feel of the car.
MS01s are made for the FC and are 17s. Did I mention they are the nicest rim on a FC?
There is a reason the industry went to a larger rim, it looks better!
07-23-09, 11:05 AM
#106
Well, the baloney slicers weigh about 15-16 pounds if I remember correctly. Finding a 17" wheel in that weight range means you'll be spending some serious money. Nothing wrong with doing that if that's what you want.
Agreed that looks are the reason the industry switched to bigger wheels and lower profile tires; note I said there was no practical reason for them, not no reason at all. Looks have sold cars (and accessories like wheels) much more effectively than any engineering feature ever did since the Model T era. Looking good is a big part of the reason why a car like the RX-7 existed in the first place.
Agreed that looks are the reason the industry switched to bigger wheels and lower profile tires; note I said there was no practical reason for them, not no reason at all. Looks have sold cars (and accessories like wheels) much more effectively than any engineering feature ever did since the Model T era. Looking good is a big part of the reason why a car like the RX-7 existed in the first place.
07-23-09, 12:22 PM
#111
daviddeep, I agree with you to the point of getting cheap, or poorly engineered rims, just for the sake of having 17s.
I think the key is choosing rims for a small 23 year old car wisely. There are several rims out there that weigh LESS than stock and are bigger...
My BBS rims, for example, although they are only 16s.
I think the key is choosing rims for a small 23 year old car wisely. There are several rims out there that weigh LESS than stock and are bigger...
My BBS rims, for example, although they are only 16s.
07-23-09, 12:45 PM
#113
the weight of the wheel will not throw off the speedometer. the larger diameter of the wheel is what throws it off. i just personally like to stick with oem parts and would not increase the wheel size. i think the TII or vert wheels would look great. the car has a classy look so i'd keep the body stock. i personally would add the vert wheels. i like the look of them over the GXL wheels.
07-23-09, 01:09 PM
#115
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arm rest envy
the padded center arm rest supplied by mazda as the L1 accessory on the window sticker is VERY common.
usually listed with the 'plush floor mats' these 2 items came on almost all convertibles...
as pictured in the accessory catalog linked in post 77 (that's a black vert interior)
this "L1" arm rest is about 3 inches tall and basically LEVEL with the door arm rests.
HOWEVER, the confusion is that there was ANOTHER arm rest available from an afta market vendor.
i think it was advertised in rotary rocket and o'neill and along with custom cockpit covers.
THAT arm rest was about 6 inches high and had a different top/padding material as i recall, and sold for more $
so the 3 inch'er is common but the taller one is not seen often now, and wasn't a mazda supplied part.
because it was a little heavier, it also made the center console RATTLE more.
____________________________
the only functional reason to go with larger rims is to accommodate bigger brakes.
there isn't room inside the 15 bbs for anything more than the stock sized calipers and rotors.
while the 205s on 15s may look like rollerblade wheels or pizza slicers, they have amazing lateral grip, something around .9-.92 gs
which was better than almost every other sports car in the late 80s.
i think it gives the car a more classic roadster look, not to mention LESS noise, less tram-lining, getter grip in the wet and so on.
increasing the UNsprung mass on a car with this little hp an torque is noticeable, AND braking distance increases a little too.
since the suspension was tuned 4 these smaller tire/wheel combos, going >than 16 is a good way to speed up FATIGUE in 20 year old sprngs, struts and shocks.
once the modifications start it is whack a mole time to keep balancing each improvement.
_________________________
it might be wise for the buyer to compression test and do all the maintenance FIRST before tweaking and POURING $$ into the ship.
with the mismatched locks and heat shield falling off, there may be other surprises coming.
henry
usually listed with the 'plush floor mats' these 2 items came on almost all convertibles...
as pictured in the accessory catalog linked in post 77 (that's a black vert interior)
this "L1" arm rest is about 3 inches tall and basically LEVEL with the door arm rests.
HOWEVER, the confusion is that there was ANOTHER arm rest available from an afta market vendor.
i think it was advertised in rotary rocket and o'neill and along with custom cockpit covers.
THAT arm rest was about 6 inches high and had a different top/padding material as i recall, and sold for more $
so the 3 inch'er is common but the taller one is not seen often now, and wasn't a mazda supplied part.
because it was a little heavier, it also made the center console RATTLE more.
____________________________
the only functional reason to go with larger rims is to accommodate bigger brakes.
there isn't room inside the 15 bbs for anything more than the stock sized calipers and rotors.
while the 205s on 15s may look like rollerblade wheels or pizza slicers, they have amazing lateral grip, something around .9-.92 gs
which was better than almost every other sports car in the late 80s.
i think it gives the car a more classic roadster look, not to mention LESS noise, less tram-lining, getter grip in the wet and so on.
increasing the UNsprung mass on a car with this little hp an torque is noticeable, AND braking distance increases a little too.
since the suspension was tuned 4 these smaller tire/wheel combos, going >than 16 is a good way to speed up FATIGUE in 20 year old sprngs, struts and shocks.
once the modifications start it is whack a mole time to keep balancing each improvement.
_________________________
it might be wise for the buyer to compression test and do all the maintenance FIRST before tweaking and POURING $$ into the ship.
with the mismatched locks and heat shield falling off, there may be other surprises coming.
henry
Last edited by openrx; 07-23-09 at 01:15 PM.
07-23-09, 02:35 PM
#119
it might be wise for the buyer to compression test and do all the maintenance FIRST before tweaking and POURING $$ into the ship.
Rims, Tires, Springs and Shocks is not POURING money into a car, it's usually called maintainance
07-23-09, 03:32 PM
#120
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no scare intended, but basics first is wise and especially if the budget is fixed or predefined.
and it looks like he's sticking with the stock rims with new rubber.
the gy eagle gt was nearly my choice too, so it will be great to read how they work out.
what is there, if not the 3 inch padded arm rest?
i'm having trouble visualizing anything else above the coin/storage box.
gotta pic of one WITHOUT the padded arm rest?
mine is no longer 3 inches and has a nice elbow indentation
...(no not that) the arm rest.
henry
and it looks like he's sticking with the stock rims with new rubber.
the gy eagle gt was nearly my choice too, so it will be great to read how they work out.
i'm having trouble visualizing anything else above the coin/storage box.
gotta pic of one WITHOUT the padded arm rest?
mine is no longer 3 inches and has a nice elbow indentation
...(no not that) the arm rest.
henry
07-23-09, 03:46 PM
#122
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gotcha, now i see, thanks.
so there must have been 3 sizes?
actually i LIKE that size, since the taller one is sorta in the way of my elbow and gets HOT and sticky...
so rob xx 7, find me a BLUE shorty, and u can have my tall boy...
the car might handle better with a lower center arm rest.
henry
so there must have been 3 sizes?
actually i LIKE that size, since the taller one is sorta in the way of my elbow and gets HOT and sticky...
so rob xx 7, find me a BLUE shorty, and u can have my tall boy...
the car might handle better with a lower center arm rest.
henry
07-23-09, 05:07 PM
#124
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07-23-09, 06:03 PM
#125
In January 1981, "Car and Driver" tested an RX-7 GSL. It did 0-60 in 10.4 seconds and the quarter mile in 17.4 @ 79 mph. In March 1984, they tested a GSL-SE which did 0-60 in 7.8 seconds and did the quarter in 15.9 @ 86 mph. I can't find the 1985 "Car and Driver" test of the NA FC, but I did find one from "Motor Trend," who in the day had a reputation among "Car and Driver" readers as always having slower test numbers. Anyway, even "Motor Trend" managed 0-60 in 8.1 and the quarter mile at 16.2 @ 82 mph (November 1985). If you look at other testing from the period, the NA FC was about as fast in a straight line as a GSL-SE and faster in the curves. And much faster than a 12A equipped FB.
For that matter, "nimble" is an adjective referring to the car's handling characteristics, not its raw acceleration.