Redlined, now bad idle...
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Redlined, now bad idle...
My friend ripped it a few times and hit the buzzer. Now, the car idles rough. What gives? Any ideas? We did a compression test 2 days ago and it was fine and we just did oil change right before hard driving. Plus, I poured in a couple bottles of fuel injector cleaner in the tank. The battery is pretty bad though. The plugs are bad too....but to have it SUDDENLY idle roughly? I thought bad plugs and batteries will cause gradual decline, not immediate.... help anyone?
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Is it NA or TII. I had the same thing happen once or twice in the TII. Check the bypass valve lines. If not there check all your vac hoses, I bet that will be it.
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Originally posted by Ryde _Or_Die
How bad does it idle? Does it die? Is there anything else different(lack of power, etc)? Any smoking?
How bad does it idle? Does it die? Is there anything else different(lack of power, etc)? Any smoking?
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Originally posted by bladz311
I had almost the same thing happen to me, but one of my seals blew. Since you have had it compression tested, I doubt that your seal is gone.
I had almost the same thing happen to me, but one of my seals blew. Since you have had it compression tested, I doubt that your seal is gone.
#10
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maybe all of that injector cleaner is doing it. Maybe you cleaned out an injector somewhat with the redlining and it sprays weird now. I don't know, just guessing. My rabbit idles between 1000 and 1150 rpm because of a bad injector on the second piston. maybe rotaries react even worse to bad injectors.
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Originally posted by rotary>piston
maybe all of that injector cleaner is doing it. Maybe you cleaned out an injector somewhat with the redlining and it sprays weird now. I don't know, just guessing. My rabbit idles between 1000 and 1150 rpm because of a bad injector on the second piston. maybe rotaries react even worse to bad injectors.
maybe all of that injector cleaner is doing it. Maybe you cleaned out an injector somewhat with the redlining and it sprays weird now. I don't know, just guessing. My rabbit idles between 1000 and 1150 rpm because of a bad injector on the second piston. maybe rotaries react even worse to bad injectors.
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I agree with Dr0x, in that if you're only having problems with the idle (power band is still good), I would say that one or more of the vacuum hoses has either cracked or come off.
You might also want to check the TPS.
You might also want to check the TPS.
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Originally posted by StarionX
I agree with Dr0x, in that if you're only having problems with the idle (power band is still good), I would say that one or more of the vacuum hoses has either cracked or come off.
You might also want to check the TPS.
I agree with Dr0x, in that if you're only having problems with the idle (power band is still good), I would say that one or more of the vacuum hoses has either cracked or come off.
You might also want to check the TPS.
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Originally posted by dr0x
A lot more than 3 lol. Take off the upper intake manifold/tb assembly.
A lot more than 3 lol. Take off the upper intake manifold/tb assembly.
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Originally posted by i8aMR2
How many vacuum lines are there? i checked the 3 connected to dynamic chamber and they were ok
How many vacuum lines are there? i checked the 3 connected to dynamic chamber and they were ok
#20
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First, Warm the car up, check your TPS sensor adjustment.
Next, Jumper the initial set connector (green socket on drivers side fender near ignition coil with 2 connetors)
Start car up. If the idle is smooth with jumper in. pat yourself on the back. thats an easy fix. If it does NOT smooth out, proceed to check for vacuum leaks.
While the initial set jumper is in, set your timing to spec. Adjust your idle speed to 700-800 rpm.
Adjust your variable resitor (miture settings) until the engine is idling as smooth as it can. Re-adjust idle speed back to 750-800 rpm.
Remove initial set jumper. You're done.
Do all this first to verify your idle setting are correct.
If after you pull the initial set jumper the car begins to have a surging idle again, the culprit is probably a clogged/bad BAC. remove your BAC, clean it well with carb cleaner. Reinstall the BAC and try again.
Give this a shot and let me know what happens
Next, Jumper the initial set connector (green socket on drivers side fender near ignition coil with 2 connetors)
Start car up. If the idle is smooth with jumper in. pat yourself on the back. thats an easy fix. If it does NOT smooth out, proceed to check for vacuum leaks.
While the initial set jumper is in, set your timing to spec. Adjust your idle speed to 700-800 rpm.
Adjust your variable resitor (miture settings) until the engine is idling as smooth as it can. Re-adjust idle speed back to 750-800 rpm.
Remove initial set jumper. You're done.
Do all this first to verify your idle setting are correct.
If after you pull the initial set jumper the car begins to have a surging idle again, the culprit is probably a clogged/bad BAC. remove your BAC, clean it well with carb cleaner. Reinstall the BAC and try again.
Give this a shot and let me know what happens
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